doxborough
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- dan oxborough
i have a 147 am rebuilding i cant rember how the throttle cable anchors to the block.i have the manual it does not show me a good picture any photos would help thanks.
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Archive through June 08, 2012
- Thread starter fcurrier
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ceanderson
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- Charles E. Anderson
Thanks guys -
You were absolutely correct about what was wrong with the 147. You are also correct that these valves are hard to get to, but we took the back end stamping off the tractor which gave us some access. What we did is to start the engine and take a small prybar and push down on the valves. Both of them popped up. I guess the only line of Shakespear that I know applies to this, which is all's well that ends well.
I will never put the thing in tow mode again, as had it in towing mode only long enough to push it into its parking spot - it was not left that way all winter. I suppose if the valve didnt pop up last fall when I released the towing mode then by now it would certainly be stuck. By the by, our other method of moving non-operational Cub Cadets is to take my 656 and pick them up with its loader and a tow strap.
I can understand why the hydro's outsold the gear drive machines, but as an old fashioned farm boy I certainly like gear drives better. Seems to me real tractors should have a clutch pedal.
Thanks again for the help.
You were absolutely correct about what was wrong with the 147. You are also correct that these valves are hard to get to, but we took the back end stamping off the tractor which gave us some access. What we did is to start the engine and take a small prybar and push down on the valves. Both of them popped up. I guess the only line of Shakespear that I know applies to this, which is all's well that ends well.
I will never put the thing in tow mode again, as had it in towing mode only long enough to push it into its parking spot - it was not left that way all winter. I suppose if the valve didnt pop up last fall when I released the towing mode then by now it would certainly be stuck. By the by, our other method of moving non-operational Cub Cadets is to take my 656 and pick them up with its loader and a tow strap.
I can understand why the hydro's outsold the gear drive machines, but as an old fashioned farm boy I certainly like gear drives better. Seems to me real tractors should have a clutch pedal.
Thanks again for the help.
The "neph" stopped by today and helped me a little with the hydraulic installation on the 1250. I really enjoy having the company while cubbing. He is a mechanic (exhaust man) by trade and he turns bolts while I hand him what he needs. He has 2 1250s and a 128 himself but hasn't the time for the cubs. I do all of his repairs/upgrades etc. on what he has and I get heavy (family) discounts on auto repair. Right now we have a plan for me to try and get his stuff back in order. His 128 is his main mower but now needs pto work. I'm planning to get him set up with his 1250 and a 44A. He has never experienced mowing with a hydro and I plan to eventually get him a 149 with maybe a 48" deck. I first need to get myself fixed up with a 149 and maybe a 48" deck. I have four out there (149s) so we ought to be able to have these things in a year or so. I also have two 48" decks, one of which I was planning to install on the 147 so I just don't know yet. While he was here I got a lot of small, two man jobs out of the way too. He got to see the 1650 in action with the #1 tiller and was impressed. I had to till a row for some late tomatoes.
Charles,
I like the idea of moving things with a 656/loader and a couple of tow straps. That seems to me to be safe and efficient. Glad you got your hydro figured out. Hydros are wonderful, but I do understand your comment about a clutch/gear drive. They can be more fun!
The only things that should be green and yellow are the NDSU Bison.
I like the idea of moving things with a 656/loader and a couple of tow straps. That seems to me to be safe and efficient. Glad you got your hydro figured out. Hydros are wonderful, but I do understand your comment about a clutch/gear drive. They can be more fun!
The only things that should be green and yellow are the NDSU Bison.
Dan, this is a 12hp but I believe the throttle setup should be the same for a 14hp.
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Charles: Thanks for the come back post - many don't.
Wayne: 4 149s. Life is good! Our 149/tiller just told me that the roll pin on the shaft that actuates the PTO clutch (and the safety switch) is sheared. I hate it when that happens but BTDT.
Matthew: Another thought is "go for quality, not quantity". I got my first one - a 105- about 13 years ago ($50 - the relief valves were stuck down). Since then, the herd has grown to where it's hard to pay them all their proper attention.
Wayne: 4 149s. Life is good! Our 149/tiller just told me that the roll pin on the shaft that actuates the PTO clutch (and the safety switch) is sheared. I hate it when that happens but BTDT.
Matthew: Another thought is "go for quality, not quantity". I got my first one - a 105- about 13 years ago ($50 - the relief valves were stuck down). Since then, the herd has grown to where it's hard to pay them all their proper attention.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Frank - I certainly appreciate what you're saying. I don't know what it is, but I just can't say something with to few words. I never really thought of it painting a picture for someone so I do thank you for saying that. It's to many words for those of us that know some of these things and have seen these things for real (like these relief valves) but for someone that hasn't seen them, and has limited to almost no access to even seeing them, it has to be difficult to understand. Here I go again with a few to many words, but, you get the picture (pun intended).
Charles E Anderson - I don't understand how prying on the valves in the down position with the engine running would do anything to make the relief pop up - so I can only say you're really lucky. Some additional info, so you know, when you press them down with the engine off they typically stay down even without the lever in the locked position. It's only when you start and run the engine again that they pop back up. Since it sounds as tho you didn't run your engine for quite sometime after having pressed them down they probably rusted or just stuck down. It may well be that just running your engine for enough time, getting the hydro fluid and pump warmed up, was enough to cause the valves to pop up. I don't think I'd risk pressing them down again just to see tho.
Charles MW Krill - I'm somewhat at a loss to understand what's going on. 1st, and just so you know, unless you have an 82 series tractor I'm against it being red (had to get that off my chest). If you paint one up correctly with yeller and white a red one just won't compare, but to each his own. 2nd, on picking up a 102, well, in your area even if there are a fair number of units around, you still have to get them while you can. Good luck with your efforts and have fun doing it.
Bill "More Questions Than Answers" Jamison - I must have been typing when you posted about the ball bearing. I think your 1650 may have the ball bearing to keep the drive shaft in alignment. I believe the later 1650 units used a double rubber rag joint coupling instead of the ball bearing set up. You're still gonna have to remove the drive shaft to install the fan so when you have the shaft out you should be able to tell if that rear coupling is lose. I still suspect it is and that a new pin will tighten it up. Let us know what you figure out.
Charles E Anderson - I don't understand how prying on the valves in the down position with the engine running would do anything to make the relief pop up - so I can only say you're really lucky. Some additional info, so you know, when you press them down with the engine off they typically stay down even without the lever in the locked position. It's only when you start and run the engine again that they pop back up. Since it sounds as tho you didn't run your engine for quite sometime after having pressed them down they probably rusted or just stuck down. It may well be that just running your engine for enough time, getting the hydro fluid and pump warmed up, was enough to cause the valves to pop up. I don't think I'd risk pressing them down again just to see tho.
Charles MW Krill - I'm somewhat at a loss to understand what's going on. 1st, and just so you know, unless you have an 82 series tractor I'm against it being red (had to get that off my chest). If you paint one up correctly with yeller and white a red one just won't compare, but to each his own. 2nd, on picking up a 102, well, in your area even if there are a fair number of units around, you still have to get them while you can. Good luck with your efforts and have fun doing it.
Bill "More Questions Than Answers" Jamison - I must have been typing when you posted about the ball bearing. I think your 1650 may have the ball bearing to keep the drive shaft in alignment. I believe the later 1650 units used a double rubber rag joint coupling instead of the ball bearing set up. You're still gonna have to remove the drive shaft to install the fan so when you have the shaft out you should be able to tell if that rear coupling is lose. I still suspect it is and that a new pin will tighten it up. Let us know what you figure out.
doxborough
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- dan oxborough
thanks craig imust have lost that brackt i will have to fab a new one looks like it bolts to the coil mount
cmwkrill
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Thanks, guys. I'm still not sure. I 'spose I'll check out the paint job thats on it when i get it. IIRC, it was pretty rough, but I might have been thinkin' of another cc.. BTW, I'm painting my cubs, (with only minor variations so far) with the intent to set them back to factory when I'm, say, 25 or 30. Right now I just want to keep them from rusting until I have the tools and experience to do it correctly. (by that, I mean until I have a large air compressor, a sandblaster, and a paint gun.)
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
About using a pry bar to get the check valves to work while the engine is running. What the pry bar did is push the buttons down just far that the pressure within the pump forced the check valves to function or pop up again. Crud or slight rust is apparently inside the push buttons top area and use just a little PB Blaster and the with the engine running be EXTREMELY CAREFUL DUE TO THE MOVONG FAN AND SHAFT again push down on those buttons a few more times thus cleaning the foreign matter out. When finished shut off the engine and wipe away the excess PB Blaster. I don't recommend using WD40 since it leaves a sticky residue.
The difference between check vavles with the push buttons and the automatic check valves is this. Push button valves allow you to push or tow SLOWLY the tractor further than you can with the automatic release check valves. As long as those buttons are depressed and you go SLOWLY then you can safely push or tow the tractor. The keyword is SLOWLY!!! With the automatic check valves once you build up pressure while pushing or towing you have to stop and wait for the pressure inside the pump to lower and thus release the autoamtic valves otherwise you'll damage the insides of your hydro pump. The automatic release valves tend to build up pressure quicker even without the tractor running since there is no detent as with on the check valves with the push buttons.
The difference between check vavles with the push buttons and the automatic check valves is this. Push button valves allow you to push or tow SLOWLY the tractor further than you can with the automatic release check valves. As long as those buttons are depressed and you go SLOWLY then you can safely push or tow the tractor. The keyword is SLOWLY!!! With the automatic check valves once you build up pressure while pushing or towing you have to stop and wait for the pressure inside the pump to lower and thus release the autoamtic valves otherwise you'll damage the insides of your hydro pump. The automatic release valves tend to build up pressure quicker even without the tractor running since there is no detent as with on the check valves with the push buttons.
Good morning,
I also posted this question in the "lawn" section, but I was informed that I would get more answers if I posted it here.
I have come across a Cub Cadet Hydro 149. It is a 1972 model with the originial 14 hp Kohler. The Cub Cadet was purchased new by the owner, and ran alongside a 1971 Cub tractor until the owner traded it in on a new Kubota. From what I have been told, it was kept inside all its life.
The tractor runs great. The Kohler started immediately even with a dying battery after sitting for a few months. The hydro seems to be in good shape with no grinding sounds or excessive whines. The metal is a in good shape with all components and attachments (including hydraulic deck lift) working.
It includes a belly mower in great shape as well as a like new snowblower. The snowblower seems to have been used only a few times. The tractor also has a Brinly Hardy hitch.
I am a huge fan of IH made machinery. Furthermore, I have restored two tractors: a 1948 Super A and a 1945 A. Unfortunately, it is too late on resisting the Cub Cadet. I drove it once, and now have come to the conclusion that I could even justify it as a useful lawn tractor.
The asking price is $990. I am new to Cub Cadet tractors; is that a fair price for the condition and implements? If not, what is a fair price to offer?
Thanks!
Ben Wagner
Virginia
I also posted this question in the "lawn" section, but I was informed that I would get more answers if I posted it here.
I have come across a Cub Cadet Hydro 149. It is a 1972 model with the originial 14 hp Kohler. The Cub Cadet was purchased new by the owner, and ran alongside a 1971 Cub tractor until the owner traded it in on a new Kubota. From what I have been told, it was kept inside all its life.
The tractor runs great. The Kohler started immediately even with a dying battery after sitting for a few months. The hydro seems to be in good shape with no grinding sounds or excessive whines. The metal is a in good shape with all components and attachments (including hydraulic deck lift) working.
It includes a belly mower in great shape as well as a like new snowblower. The snowblower seems to have been used only a few times. The tractor also has a Brinly Hardy hitch.
I am a huge fan of IH made machinery. Furthermore, I have restored two tractors: a 1948 Super A and a 1945 A. Unfortunately, it is too late on resisting the Cub Cadet. I drove it once, and now have come to the conclusion that I could even justify it as a useful lawn tractor.
The asking price is $990. I am new to Cub Cadet tractors; is that a fair price for the condition and implements? If not, what is a fair price to offer?
Thanks!
Ben Wagner
Virginia
Harry-
I'm with you about the color scheme...red tractors belong red and the white/yellow have their place. I guess we're just too "old school".
Charles-
I'd say buy a green machine and paint it chartreuse. Now that's something I'd like to see.
Marlin-
With the automatic valves...what would happen if you cracked them both open a tad (as in having to move it several hundred yards)? I'm guessing fluid all over the place??? I've never done it so I just don't know. I have a board cut especially for wedging between the frame and the relief valve lever for any lengthy haul/pull. I've also had some tractors manual valves stay released when I roll them and others will pop back quickly. I just always fugured some valves were in better shape than others. All of them work so far.
I'm with you about the color scheme...red tractors belong red and the white/yellow have their place. I guess we're just too "old school".
Charles-
I'd say buy a green machine and paint it chartreuse. Now that's something I'd like to see.
Marlin-
With the automatic valves...what would happen if you cracked them both open a tad (as in having to move it several hundred yards)? I'm guessing fluid all over the place??? I've never done it so I just don't know. I have a board cut especially for wedging between the frame and the relief valve lever for any lengthy haul/pull. I've also had some tractors manual valves stay released when I roll them and others will pop back quickly. I just always fugured some valves were in better shape than others. All of them work so far.
I think it does not matter what type of release valve you have on the Cub , If the drive shaft is NOT turning the system does not get a fresh fluid supply. So the pistons inside the hydro pump can be damaged from heat and score the surface they run on.any scoring of those piston will deplete efficiency . I like to use my loader to move my tractors . Damp and cool here this am . later Don T
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Hydro Harry - good info on the drive shaft and fan install - thanks!
jbaker
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Ben there are strict rules here forbidding "how much is it worth" type questions.
But IMHO that sounds a little high,
the IH 149 is a awesome unit and what you describe is nice.
When you buy a cub stop back with some pictures
But IMHO that sounds a little high,
the IH 149 is a awesome unit and what you describe is nice.
When you buy a cub stop back with some pictures
jchamberlin
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Don (and everyone else):
Regarding the appropriateness of Ben Wagner's post, the Forum Rules (which can be accessed from the link at the top of the main forum page), state:
Begin Quote:
This is not an appraisal site! Questions regarding the specific value of any particular unit, implement or whatever are not allowed. Any posts containing such queries will be removed. Asking if a certain amount for a tractor is worth buying it for is fine.
End Quote (emphasis added)
Considering what is stated in the rules, I would say Ben's post is OK.
In Don's defense, the overall goal of the several rules that refer to posts with price information is to limit such discussion to the Classified Section. The point of the forum is to discuss Cub's generally and their technical aspects in particular.
Edit: Personally, I think the condition of the tractor justifies its price. An old worn out 149 that needs the axle/spindle/steering repaired, the brakes renewed, several electrical components replaced, etc can EASILY eat up the difference between an "ideal" $400 price tag and a "high" $1,000 price tag. I won't tell you what I've got in mine, but it far exceeds what the fellow is asking, and I haven't painted the first part, or fixed the axle/spindle/steering yet.
Edit 2: I also haven't addressed issues with the engine either, like its excessive vibration.
Regarding the appropriateness of Ben Wagner's post, the Forum Rules (which can be accessed from the link at the top of the main forum page), state:
Begin Quote:
This is not an appraisal site! Questions regarding the specific value of any particular unit, implement or whatever are not allowed. Any posts containing such queries will be removed. Asking if a certain amount for a tractor is worth buying it for is fine.
End Quote (emphasis added)
Considering what is stated in the rules, I would say Ben's post is OK.
In Don's defense, the overall goal of the several rules that refer to posts with price information is to limit such discussion to the Classified Section. The point of the forum is to discuss Cub's generally and their technical aspects in particular.
Edit: Personally, I think the condition of the tractor justifies its price. An old worn out 149 that needs the axle/spindle/steering repaired, the brakes renewed, several electrical components replaced, etc can EASILY eat up the difference between an "ideal" $400 price tag and a "high" $1,000 price tag. I won't tell you what I've got in mine, but it far exceeds what the fellow is asking, and I haven't painted the first part, or fixed the axle/spindle/steering yet.
Edit 2: I also haven't addressed issues with the engine either, like its excessive vibration.
Ben Wagner,
At the risk of angering the moderators, I am going to defend your comments concerning the 149 and said accessories. I think the real question here is this tractor, and its accessories with it, worth the asking price that the seller has placed upon it. My advice to you is to look around and see what similar machines are going for in your area, and decide for yourself if you think it is a price that is fair.
I am new to the Cub Cadet world too, and I looked for two years before I found what I believe to be a good machine for a price with which I was comfortable and could afford.
The only things that should be green and yellow are the NDSU Bison.
At the risk of angering the moderators, I am going to defend your comments concerning the 149 and said accessories. I think the real question here is this tractor, and its accessories with it, worth the asking price that the seller has placed upon it. My advice to you is to look around and see what similar machines are going for in your area, and decide for yourself if you think it is a price that is fair.
I am new to the Cub Cadet world too, and I looked for two years before I found what I believe to be a good machine for a price with which I was comfortable and could afford.
The only things that should be green and yellow are the NDSU Bison.
Guys the only problem I have with this is posting the same question in the main page that was posted in another area. I think the question was answered to it`s worth there . I`am not going to get into what that tractor is worth , because it`s only worth what you are willing to pay .
a 149 is a great tractor
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