• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through June 07, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

kide

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 27, 2006
Messages
3,779
displayname
Gerry Ide
Matthew K:
Suggest you go here and read FAQs 14, 32 and 33...
 
Paul Reed, If you have never used an impact wrench:verify the direction the wrench is set to turn before applying to the nut,be aware of the torque rating of the gun,especially if you consider using it to tighten the nut to avoid stripping the threads. 3/8" guns are not usually powerful enough to loosen and may not tighten enough either.Many 1/2" guns have enough power to overtighten the nuts and possibly strip the threads. There is a specific torque spec for tightening the nut,I don't have it for yours,somebody here has it.
 
Wayne, the manual just states to "tighten them securely" The spindle nut (not the nut that retains the blade) on the other hand is listed at 55-60 FT-LBs.

191871.jpg
 
"A few strokes of a file...."
clappy.gif
clappy.gif
clappy.gif
clappy.gif
clappy.gif
..... maybe on a 1/4 acre lawn in a subdivision, IF you stopped every half hour and sharpened 'em. Out where we live, mowing select size gravel, small trees and weeds, a 1 horse angle grinder w/ a flap disk is a good start..
 
GERRY - I "Think" I read in some ad literature years ago the IH/CC mower blades are made from 5120 steel, heat-treated & tempered of course. Not sure if they still are. But I know they're just soft enough you can drill holes thru them which makes them AWFUL hard to file. You can make a "mark" on them but I agree, a BIG grinder helps.

Last couple times I touched blades up this summer I followed Steve B's advice and used my belt sander. Works good!

THANKS for the tip STEVE!
thumbsup.gif
 
191875.jpg

191876.jpg


Two bolts only one of which was present when I started but I cannot find these in the manual. The bolt is 3/8 x 16 x 1 1/4 not hardened. They do not appear in the isolation mount pages and I do not see them on the engine page. They are blind as the frame blocks all view. Are these going into the engine? I cannot find a reference to these. Anyway what happens if I leave them as is. I've loosened everything I can loosen to move the connections forward to get them straight but this is the best I can muster. If I knew what their purpose was it would help.
 
Gary-

Absolutely not. Those bolts aren't doing anything, they're just in misaligned set of holes. They hold the engine on the mounting rails/cradle. I think they should be 1" long, not 1 1/4". Those need to be installed correctly. Otherwise, you've got two bolts holding the engine in instead of four, and it'll destroy the oil pan, engine mount rails, frame, etc. Remove the two back bolts that hold the engine to the rails, and then use a tapered punch to line up the holes. Put in the front bolts first, but lose the flat washers, as you won't get the bolts through the oblong holes in the axle crossmember. Use a lockwasher only. After you get those two started, then put in the rear two bolts.
 
Thanks Kraig your pic were instrumental.
Thanks again
 
I wonder what will go wrong next!
bash.gif

I was using my 1512 Diesel to haul stone till it decided not to start.
bash.gif
I had been getting the odd click and had bought a new starter a while back and was waiting for the old starter to quit and I guess this was the day. So after I had a load in the trailer the 1512 would not start. So the 129 had to haul the load of stone away. I hope for a rainy day now to install the new starter.The 129 loader is a great tractor but for some reason now does not charge.
191882.jpg


The 1512 diesel hides by the road and needs the loader to put it in my shop. I wonder what else will go wrong this week.
old.gif
 
Marty A. Gwin

up here them geese know a good tractor when they see one lol.Just another reason it take me longer to cut the grass. Wife paid over $100.00 for two of them. Looks like I`1l be replacing a starter in the am .
old.gif
 
Gerry,

Thanks but I think I left out one important bit. He says that it seems to be working the engine harder. Like he turns up a small hill and it requires more forward (which the stuff you suggested sounds right for this) but he says it seems to work the engine a lot harder then it used to.

Is this a symptom of the stuff you pointed me to?
 
Guys I really hate to ask,but my 129 stopped charging and I would like a few pointers. I know I should remember what to do but well I don`t . dang old age has set in I think.
clappy.gif
 
Dennis:
I always used the hard $urfaced blade$...current local prices for a set of three look to be about a $135.00 for (1) 759-3851 and (2) 759-3852's... I can buy 3 sets of blades for my Tiger Cub and have change left over.. If I have to buy any more for the Cub, I'll look at the regular blades.
 
Thanks Charlie But i won`t be doing that
clappy.gif
clappy.gif

I will be asking dumb questions in the am lol,
 
Matthew K:
Geez, just like listening to Click and Clack... the caller ALWAYS forgets at least one symptom ...
clappy.gif


If the Hydro is lugging down the engine, I'd first check/drain the Hytran, and change the filter; then put the rear axle on jack stands and spin the rear wheels to see if they rotate freely, without brakes dragging or possibly a bearing gone (note that rotating one wheel forward will make the other one spin backwards..this is normal. If you can't find anything at this point, put the rear cover back on, fill it with Hytran and see if the new oil and filter made a change.. If there's still engine bog (and you're sure it's caused by the hydro and NOT the engine), there might be an internal problem in the hydro pump.....

<font size="-2">Note- this is what I'd do, you may have an entirely different course of action recommended, YMMV, yadda yadda yadda...)</font>
 
Matthew K - As for the lever needing moved more than normal I just had that problem with my 1882. The trunion was in like new condition but the trunion springs (dampener springs) were shot , little one broke and big one weak. I put in new springs and buttons and all's well.
As for the harder working engine , sounds like the trans filter is stopped up with sludge.

Demanding more volume from a pump means it puts out more pressure and volume. If something restricts the flow it increases the strain on the engine. Since there are no lines or external valves to consider then it would have to be internal. So since there IS one line , the return line (or is it suction?) on the bottom of the pump next to the filter I'd see if he may have hit something and bent the line almost closed or change the filter and HyTran like Gerry said.

Be warned when you pull the rear cover off the trans it <u>will flood</u> the floor !
 
The good I put a clutch disk in today it helped my clutch ALOT.

The bad every time I turn my 122 off about 2 or more seconds after I kill it it backfires,how do I stop this?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top