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Archive through June 07, 2010
- Thread starter kide
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
I'm happy to report that thanks to my new tines I finally got my lawn cut without my subframe falling off the rockshaft and without throwing a belt.
On to the next problem!
The tip of the bar that locks into notches that hold the deck at various heights is busted off. I'm guessing this might be weldable but maybe isnt worth the cost if its more than a new part. At any rate I have to get it off. It looks easy but I dont want to make that assumption. How do I take it off? Its a 108, different from another one that was discussed recently.
The tip of the bar that locks into notches that hold the deck at various heights is busted off. I'm guessing this might be weldable but maybe isnt worth the cost if its more than a new part. At any rate I have to get it off. It looks easy but I dont want to make that assumption. How do I take it off? Its a 108, different from another one that was discussed recently.
Kraig, Are the nuts top and bottom the same? Are they full thickness or the thin type,coarse or fine thread? If the nut in question is the thin type some modern 1/2 impact wrenches can produce 300-400 ftlbs or more of torque, which at the full power setting can get you in trouble pretty quickly. For example some of the newer Ingersol-Rand 1/2" composite guns are capeable of about 600 ftlb (I just looked it up)They are the best impact I ever used as a mechanic for 40 yrs. 15-20 yrs ago many 3/4 guns didn't do much more than that.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Wayne-
They're fine thread. I've removed both thick and thin nuts, and I think the thin ones are correct.
They're fine thread. I've removed both thick and thin nuts, and I think the thin ones are correct.
Kraig McC,
I think it's interesting that according to your scan of the manual page, it calls for a 1-1/4" socket to remove the mower deck blades. Whereas, just as Steve B. and Dennis F indicated, my blade retaining nuts also take a 1-1/8" socket.
Lucas J.,
If you idle your 122 down to about half throttle for 30 seconds or so before turning the ignition key to 'off', this will reduce or eliminate the loud POP once it's stopped running.
Ryan Wilke
I think it's interesting that according to your scan of the manual page, it calls for a 1-1/4" socket to remove the mower deck blades. Whereas, just as Steve B. and Dennis F indicated, my blade retaining nuts also take a 1-1/8" socket.
Lucas J.,
If you idle your 122 down to about half throttle for 30 seconds or so before turning the ignition key to 'off', this will reduce or eliminate the loud POP once it's stopped running.
Ryan Wilke
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,829
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Ryan,
Kraig's scan indicates that you should hold the nut that is part of the belt pulley (on top of the deck) with a 1-1/4" wrench to keep the spindle from turning. These are the big flats under the 3/4" nylock jam-nut (that takes an 1-1/8" wrench).
See pic of 44" deck...the black pulley has black wrench flats on it (just under the nut)
BTW, wrench size (for normal automotive hardware) is 1.5 x bolt diameter => 3/4" bolt = 3/4" + 3/8" = 1-1/8" wrench.
Kraig's scan indicates that you should hold the nut that is part of the belt pulley (on top of the deck) with a 1-1/4" wrench to keep the spindle from turning. These are the big flats under the 3/4" nylock jam-nut (that takes an 1-1/8" wrench).
See pic of 44" deck...the black pulley has black wrench flats on it (just under the nut)
BTW, wrench size (for normal automotive hardware) is 1.5 x bolt diameter => 3/4" bolt = 3/4" + 3/8" = 1-1/8" wrench.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,829
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
All this talk of mower blades motivated me to put the deck under the 2072 this weekend.......
I had never mowed with a SGT w/PS and a 54"GT deck until this evening.....what a HOSS. Not as fast as my ZTR with the same deck, but more fun!!!!
I had never mowed with a SGT w/PS and a 54"GT deck until this evening.....what a HOSS. Not as fast as my ZTR with the same deck, but more fun!!!!
Steve B.
And I'm sure the guys in the CCC and MTD Machines thread would love to hear about it!
And I'm sure the guys in the CCC and MTD Machines thread would love to hear about it!
I tried looking through a few threads using the search feature, but couldn't find anything that matched my scenario. I have a k341 with a fresh rebuild. New piston, .10 under crank/rod, new valves, seats re-ground, etc. The engine starts and idles great, but after about 15min of cutting my grass it seems to be getting hot. When I checked the oil, there was what appeared to be steam slightly rising out of the fill tube. I have quite a bit of experience with motorcycles and atv's but not sure where to look on this tractor. Can you guys help?
The tractor is clean with no debris in the fan screen and I am running the side panels. I know running lean could cause an engine to run hot, and potentially a bad head gasket. I will look into both tomorrow before work. Any advice will be greatly appreciated!
-Robert
The tractor is clean with no debris in the fan screen and I am running the side panels. I know running lean could cause an engine to run hot, and potentially a bad head gasket. I will look into both tomorrow before work. Any advice will be greatly appreciated!
-Robert
Robert B,
Our man on the scene, Dave R. makes an excellent point. Improper timing can cause the engine to run hot!
I recall rebuilding a SBF engine and on startup, I had the distributor mis-adjusted, and the timing was so
far off and the thing got so hot that it turned my headers cherry red hot, burnt the high-temp paint off and
it floated away like leaves in the wind & my nearby sparkplug wires started to melt!
Steve B.,
Upon re-reading the text, I see now what you are saying. I will have to inspect my deck now,
as I don't recall all of my pulleys having a welded hex on it.
Nevertheless, the text is clear to me this AM, my error.
Ryan Wilke
Our man on the scene, Dave R. makes an excellent point. Improper timing can cause the engine to run hot!
I recall rebuilding a SBF engine and on startup, I had the distributor mis-adjusted, and the timing was so
far off and the thing got so hot that it turned my headers cherry red hot, burnt the high-temp paint off and
it floated away like leaves in the wind & my nearby sparkplug wires started to melt!
Steve B.,
Upon re-reading the text, I see now what you are saying. I will have to inspect my deck now,
as I don't recall all of my pulleys having a welded hex on it.
Nevertheless, the text is clear to me this AM, my error.
Ryan Wilke
GERRY - I gave up on the hard-coated blades about ten yrs ago, new set I bought started chipping right away from the occasional piece of crushed rock while mowing the roadbank. The standard blades seem to handle that situation much better. I really didn't see the hard-coated blades wearing any longer just cutting grass either, about every 3-4 mowings I was touching the edge up with my 4-1/2" angle "File".
STEVE B. - Kinda nice mowing with an SGT every now & then.
I bought a "Runs in the Family" t-shirt from Travis years ago, the one with a 982 & 5488 sitting side-by-side on the back. My 982 is the closest I'll ever come to convincing My CFO that I need a 5X88 in the shop! The 982 is the only CC She'll run from time-to-time.
DON T. - With all this rock moving, You giving anymore thought to adding hyd. dump to your cart?
STEVE B. - Kinda nice mowing with an SGT every now & then.
I bought a "Runs in the Family" t-shirt from Travis years ago, the one with a 982 & 5488 sitting side-by-side on the back. My 982 is the closest I'll ever come to convincing My CFO that I need a 5X88 in the shop! The 982 is the only CC She'll run from time-to-time.
DON T. - With all this rock moving, You giving anymore thought to adding hyd. dump to your cart?
Dear Forum folks,
I haven't posted in a while, but I have used all the info Kraig has given me on repairing the leak I had in the hydro unit of my 1980 782 and it all worked out well. I have a new problem and I am asking the forum for some information.
The problem is with my electric PTO. I know its out of adjustment and I need to turn the 4 adjusting nuts with the springs on them to bring the air gap within tolerance (.010 to .015). Which way do I turn the adjustment nuts? The tolerance is greater than .010 right now, so do I turn the nuts clockwise or counterclockwise to set the gap with a feeler gauge?
Thanks, Phil Wood
I haven't posted in a while, but I have used all the info Kraig has given me on repairing the leak I had in the hydro unit of my 1980 782 and it all worked out well. I have a new problem and I am asking the forum for some information.
The problem is with my electric PTO. I know its out of adjustment and I need to turn the 4 adjusting nuts with the springs on them to bring the air gap within tolerance (.010 to .015). Which way do I turn the adjustment nuts? The tolerance is greater than .010 right now, so do I turn the nuts clockwise or counterclockwise to set the gap with a feeler gauge?
Thanks, Phil Wood
Gerry & Ken,
Thanks guys.
Sorry I forgot about the load issue, I'm getting all this from emails so details are hit or miss. Once upon a time this used to be my tractor, I'm learning that you shouldn't sell to friends.
None the less this came on all of a sudden, so maybe a spring it busted or the filter finally had it (the fluid was changed not all that long ago but who knows).
I'll have him get some new fluid, a gasket and a filter.
Thanks guys.
Sorry I forgot about the load issue, I'm getting all this from emails so details are hit or miss. Once upon a time this used to be my tractor, I'm learning that you shouldn't sell to friends.
None the less this came on all of a sudden, so maybe a spring it busted or the filter finally had it (the fluid was changed not all that long ago but who knows).
I'll have him get some new fluid, a gasket and a filter.
Dennis Frisk
I still plan to add hyd lift on my trailer fo sure. I have to tip it by hand now and that hurts me bad. I will have to do a mod and get the cylinder. There was 5 loades of rock on a pile acrost the road That my wife is putting around the house
she is putting down cloth and about 3 inches of rock.Now there is 4 cords of wood in the same place as the rock , It was delivered last night. So i`am taking apart my 1512D this morning to install a new starter
And my new car is getting a new front after the deer kill Sunday.Life goes on lol.I have lots of jobs to do.
The rock
And this job awaits, 12x 16 Cub storage
and the wood plie
And the Diesel starter replaced also
I`am to busy to get into much trouble! how about you?
I still plan to add hyd lift on my trailer fo sure. I have to tip it by hand now and that hurts me bad. I will have to do a mod and get the cylinder. There was 5 loades of rock on a pile acrost the road That my wife is putting around the house
The rock
And this job awaits, 12x 16 Cub storage
and the wood plie
And the Diesel starter replaced also
I`am to busy to get into much trouble! how about you?
J
jott
Guest
No i havnt changed the oil since i bought it. I checked the oil when i was looking at it before I bought it and it was low. There is also oil and gas leaking out of the head. It seemed to run ok when i was mowing, but the carb throttle shaft bushing is wore more than i've ever seen one wore and this isnt even the original engine. (This tractor has been used really hard from what ive found.) So I put a different carb on it and now it runs good high and at a idle, but when I run it full throttle then bring it down to an idle, it pops a few times like the settings are not quite right. I tried moving the governor spring, but it doesnt seem to help. Then i pulled the steering column and took it apart last night because it seemed to be slightly binding. needless to say its all shot. the little ball bearings are pitted, the threads for the acorn nut are stripped beyond feasible repair, and the shaft is wore right above were the top bearing rides. Does anyone know where i can get parts for it or i can just look for a whole nother column, which might be a better choice. I tried to put a column from a 105 in the tractor as a temporary replacement, but it was too short
Josh, does the steering wheel off the 105 have a deeper dish, mabey you can use that column. What I'm going on is last winter I came across a 100 that had the wrong column but the steering wheel was a lot deeper, I never did identify it ( had 3 round steel spokes) Sometimes you do what you have to do.
