Archive through June 06, 2010

[mgwin]

OK, everyone quit laughing! That darn archive bug got me. Here's the photo that got bit:

 

[mgwin]

Roy,
Another important thing; make sure you have an extra air filter attached as close to the gun as possible. You DON'T want any water getting into the paint. Water will condense inside the air hose.

 

[dtanner]

Well guys my new Cub storage shed kit arrived Saturday and I have a job now to put this together.

I also made a post in the sand box

. some of you know we need a new car and you can see it here . I`am bummed about it.

 

[rnajecki]

Marty, Luther,
Thanks for the advice on Cub painting equipment tips. I did read about how important it is to filter out water close to the gun. I've got a 30 gallon air compressor. Having that and the tools makes it so much easier removing mower deck spindle nuts, car lug nuts, etc.

 

[mgonitzke]

Roy-

I'll toss in my two cents too. In addition to what everyone else has said, how good the paint looks after it's dry is about 80% prep, 10% paint quality, and 10% technique. It doesn't matter if you use $100/quart PPG Delstar and have been painting for 30 years, painting over crap is going to look like crap. I wipe my parts with a rag soaked in mineral spirits immediately before painting to remove any dust, wax, oily residue, etc.

Thin the paint by the manufacturer's instructions if there are any. Sometimes you have to modify them slightly to get things to work. For example, I've sprayed white that I could only add hardener but no reducer to, or it would run off the parts...

Having said that, actually spraying the paint is about 75% technique and 25% paint gun quality in my opinion. Perhaps you've seen pictures of the 100 I redid last summer...I painted that with this old POS Sears paint gun. If it's dry tomorrow I'm going to try to at least prime the rearend and some other random stuff for my 1872 with a cheap HVLP gun from Harbor Freight. My dad used it to paint fenders for his trailer last year, and they turned out good, so now I need to practice with it a bit, too. Basically what I'm trying to say is, you don't need a great, or even good gun for a nice paint job.

 

[kweaver]

Matt - I just have to disagree with your last statement.
(sorry Frank I'm breaking #5700)

I built a set of kitchen cabinets for a woman once and I used Lacquer Sealer to seal the grain before the Lacquer top coat. I bought a cheap gun from Lowes and the freakin sealer was drying at the nozzle as it came out. That's when I went and bought my Binks #7 and finished the job. I've not had one problem spraying anything I put in the Binks. I sprayed a whole quart of paint straight from the can on my garage door with no runs or stoppages. I sprayed this house with it using latex with no paint drying in the nozzle.

I've sprayed resin through it too but man what a pain to clean !

A cheap gun will make a cheap job. Cheap ones don't mix as well or always have a user friendly nozzle diameter.

 

[mgonitzke]

Ken-

I haven't had a problem with either of my cheap guns.

My point is, there's no need for a several-hundred dollar paint gun to paint one of these things.

 

[kide]

Face it, there are very few pro painters on here, but the more experience you get, the less difference the gun makes - to a point. At the same time, my Accuspray HVLP, Binks or even the old standby JGA are easier to set up and more predictable. I really like to set one up and use it for the type of paint that I'm putting on (and that's been nothing big in about the last 5 years..) and keep it for that. That is really important to me with the clear coats that need pretty good atomization. At the same time, if I'm in a hurry, I really like the Sears/Devilbiss HVLP gravity feed with the cup liners - fast to clean up and it lays enamel pretty nice (I don't think Sears is selling these anymore, but it was just a little over $100.00 on sale)

One thing I haven't seen mentioned and is the third tool I always use when mixing (after the strainer and paddle) is a viscosity cup. Your fluid needle in the gun is based on the viscosity of the paint that you're spraying and too little reducer or too much will be the first problem you have when you start laying the material on. They're cheap and all ya gotta do is dip it in the paint, pull it out and time how long it takes to drain out of the cup.

 

[digger]

I can do a fair to middlin job on thumbs.

 

[fcurrier]

That's an old pic. Did you use enough hardener that it's kept its shine?

 

[mgwin]

Charlie,
Looks like you need a box of latex gloves and a manicure!

 

[digger]

Marty G.
If you don't soak in a little yeller once and a while, you start to loose your edge.

 

[fcurrier]

Charlie Yellow Thumb: Pleasant dreams!

P.S. Thanks for the (relativly) tight rein on the Forum.

 

[jott]

Welon saturday, i drove 350 miles round trip for a cub cadet 72 i found. It was in worse shape than i woanted it to be but when you go that far you dont want to come home empty handed. Has a 42" mower deck and 10hp kohler. I bought it home and started fixing all the small little problems that people screw up on them over the years. When i was putting the front grill back on i noticed a buch of welds in the corners of it. It was rewelded good, but in 3 or 4 of the corners. Then when i took the steering column out i noticed the front axle was also welded. I didnt see any of this when i bought it btw. On the back part of the frame by the tires, there are two lines of rust about 6-8" long(one on each side) which makes me think there were fenders on it at of point, but someone maybe took them off when "whatever happend to it" happend.The PO also used anti seize like it was going out of style. It was on every bolt i took out. Which was a good thing since i had to take the steering wheel off. They also cut the top of the acorn nut off for some stupid reason.
Now to my questions: There was white smoke coming out of the breather when i was mowing with it and after i brought it back in the shed and let it idle. My step-dad said the timing could be off and one of the valves is not closing at the right time and the smoke is getting back in the engine. It smells like oil but then again it doesnt. the motor knocks too. So if anyone could tell me what im dealing with let me know. Sorry for the 3 page essay, but its been a few days since ive been on here. happy cubbin!! Sorry no pics <font size="+1">I cant find my camera</font>

 

[aschumacher]

Josh, after you have your coffee in the morning, you'll probabily find your camera. Look under the advertising part of the paper, thats where I find all sorts of stuff. <font size="-2">(bills, pens, cigarettes,cat food bowls. Neat people dont make exciting discoveries like I do!.. ..)</font>

 

[hydroharry]

Bob P - I was looking at the pic of your Kohler engine parts sitting on the kitchen counter. I noticed the oil pan is not the usual style (more like JD style) like used on CCs with 10, 12, 14 or 16hp engines. I've never had a 7hp and don't recall an 8hp looking like that. Is that pan for your 71CC or something else???

Hydro Harry

 

[bproctor]

Well Harry

I was told the engine was original but I found out during disassembly that it is not a k161 but a k181 with the original k161 fan shroud and #'s. I'm really not sure now. One of my parts manuals says that the direct replacement for the k161 7hp is a k181 8hp spec # 30564. It was mounted in the holes in the frame and the clutch lines up nicely. Please tell me more even though your scaring me.

post a pic of the oil pan your referring to or point me in the direction.

 

[bproctor]

I just checked again and both manuals say it's the correct pan. K161 spec 28999J or k181 spec 30564. Both show the square pan with bottom drain. Tell me if you find something different.

 

[bproctor]

Charli

If you had mini IH stickers you could open a nail boutique. The ladie's pay big money for that.

 

[bproctor]

Sorry Harry

Yes this engine is from the 71CC.