Matt G, I have not used the ohm meter before. Are you saying the gap is not as crucial as the time of the gap (the point at which the points break)? If so this might explain my 125's hard idle even though timing is set at .020.
-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through June 04, 2010
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Bob-
Correct. A point gap of 0.020" rarely corresponds to correct timing in my experience. You set the point gap so they break at the correct time, and it usually winds up being 0.016"-0.022", although I've had a few outside of that range. Wear and manufacturing tolerances just about guarantee that setting the point gap to 0.020" rarely is correct.
Correct. A point gap of 0.020" rarely corresponds to correct timing in my experience. You set the point gap so they break at the correct time, and it usually winds up being 0.016"-0.022", although I've had a few outside of that range. Wear and manufacturing tolerances just about guarantee that setting the point gap to 0.020" rarely is correct.
i used to get this liquid rust reformer in a gallon container. Seems like the plastic jug was clear with white print. Can't remember the name and wondered if anyone knows what I'm talking about. I know rustoleum has a paste or gel but this was a brown liquid dump or spray it on and rust would turn black and not rust for a looooong time. took paint well also.
Also if you know of a homade brew, please fill me in.
last, the clutch shaft guard on a model 71, was that perforated or sheet metal? I have seen pics that show both and the parts manual doesn't have a good pic either
Also if you know of a homade brew, please fill me in.
last, the clutch shaft guard on a model 71, was that perforated or sheet metal? I have seen pics that show both and the parts manual doesn't have a good pic either
Bob P.
Here's both kinds.
Here's both kinds.
Dross - Thanks for the response. I am pretty sure I reinstalled everything that was on, and was removed. I cannot start it now because I came into the garage and smelled fuel and found that a large amount of fuel was and had been dripping out of the air cleaner. I think my carb is toast. Found a new "in the box", Kohler/Walbro on EBay and was priced right, I think...I was less than half of the cost from Cub or Kohler parts. I'll put it on and see if I can locate the area where the noise is coming from. Do you know if you can leave the adjustment too loose or too tight and get such a result ?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Charles-
Your carb isn't toast. It just needs rebuilding. A carb kit and new float would probably fix it.
At any rate, don't throw it away...
Your carb isn't toast. It just needs rebuilding. A carb kit and new float would probably fix it.
At any rate, don't throw it away...
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Bob P. I have tried 2 products shown below. The Rustoleum comes out like black paint so I dont really know whats it's doing. The EXTEND is a nice product. Sprays on clear and turns black as it works. It looks like it's actually doing something. Got mine at HD or L's, and probabily other places.
