Archive through June 03, 2016

[dmerkle]

Billy,

I've been using the same style gas filter on most of my IH Cub Cadets for years. They are the same ones that Briggs and Stratton use on their older engines.

 

[wsdrake]

Hi Dale,

This is a 'Genuine Briggs Part'. It was all Walmart had. We don't have much around here, and the local small engine shop is EXPENSIVE.

I wasn't going to put one on it, but I wanted that extra layer of protection since I had just overhauled the carburetor. Thanks Dale!

 

[jholod]

Thanks jeff. I was just going to use the mule drive for my mower. Will that not work? I used the mule drive off my 102 and 147 when I had my old tiller.

 

[mgwin]

Harry,

Go easy on those fumes, they're not good for you. You might consider sucking on a wet towel like Richard Petty used to do. LOL!
No problems with any cracking yet.
Unless you have a bad vibration, or a loose muffler, the heat shield should not crack.
I used 1.5" thinwall conduit which is relatively light.
The total length of the pipe is 38 inches. From the top of the hood to the top of the pipe is 24.5 inches.
I used a muffler clamp to hold the pipe on the muffler. Here is a picture showing the clamp:

 

[jchamberlin]

Marty: That is a really pretty engine restoration you did back in 2009, looks BETTER than factory, in my opinion. Looks absolutely awesome!

 

[hydroharry]

Marty - as far as I know I don't have any bad vibrations, I've only got good good good vibrationsssssssss. I've got a K341A that still has the balance gears so she does shake some.

And I agree with Jeremiah, you really do have a sweet looking K301 in your 128.

 

[belliott]

I had a strange problem with my 1000 that I thought I would share.

I began having intermittent starting problems with it a couple of months ago. It behaved like the battery was dead. I had to move the tractor early in the morning and used a battery charger to start it. When I disconnected the leads from the charger I saw sparks where the ground bolted to the frame. It turned out the bolt had backed out and wasn't holding the wire securely. I sanded the underside of the bolt flange and wire eye and the problem seemed to go away.

Late last month I started having problems again. The solenoid would click so I thought the battery was going bad. It started great with the charger and ran great once started. I took the starter apart and found the brushes were worn low but should work. I cleaned out all the dust and lightly lubed the bushings. It started fine then began doing the same thing.

Yesterday I was mowing with it and was thinking about the problem. I realized that when I used the charger it became my path to ground so if my ground had high resistance that could be the problem. I took the ground line off and sanded the eye, bolt and metal on the fender. I chased the threads in the frame with a tap and put it back together. I bumped the starter about 20 times throughout the rest of the day and didn't have any problems.

I didn't expect that the second time. I thought I would post this as a reminder that grounds in electrical systems are very important.

Bob

 

[digger]

Bob E.
Any type of electrically-conductive grease would have nipped it in the connection the first go round.

Any time I bring a new Cub home, the FIRST thing I do is go through every connection, clean and grease those suckers up. I never have issues later on.

 

[fcurrier]

A new Cub?

 

[digger]

New to me!

Actually 2 this week.

 

[jbaker]

Charlie

 

[jclazar]

Bob E, I agree, wire connection and function are critical! As a matter of fact, I make sure as Charlie does with his cubbys to clean and lube with grease. I have found that a starter solenoid from an '88 Ford Crown Vic with the 5.0 E.F.I is a darn-near perfect replacement match that works!

So, the other day I had my 1450 apart, the heavy cast iron grill housing so distinctive to the last of the "true" IH Cub Cadets, was removed for cleaning and a snubber shim adjustment.

Anyhow, I had the ground wire disconnected that leads to the starter mount bolt. After my adjustments, I wanted to start my 1450 so observe any change in operation vibration, when I remembered the ground wire disconnected. I think it was Hydro Harry, whom, a while ago recommended having another ground wire to help in solenoid "clicks". I have that extra wire connected between the firewall mount and frame, leading up to the engine tin bolt below and to right of the rectifier. I hit the key and the 1450 roared to life instantly with out the main ground wire attached.

Perhaps this extra ground wire is what you need concerning the IH Cub Cadet Quiet Line series?

Dale, I have the most common paper filter for a gravity flow filter from Napa, and my 1450 seems to operate fine, however I have not yet let the fuel run down low to see if it still passes to the Carter #30 carb yet. Still on the fence about it. I think the small red Briggs screen filter might be what is next in the future.

 

[wsdrake]

Hi John,

I just put one of those small red Briggs fuel filters on my 108 today. It seems to work fine. The old filter I just replaced was exactly like it, only a cheaper version. I have run the tank plum dry before, so it seems to flow fairly well. It wouldn't be a bad option for your 1450 in my opinion.

 

[dmerkle]

The part number for the Briggs gas filter is 5018K.
An online small engine part supplier wants $4.36

The package shown on the online small engine parts had another part number on the package (298090S). The cost for that filter was $3.47 (same online supplier).

The package shown had both part numbers on it. Not sure if there is any difference besides the price.

John L.,
I've used NAPA filters in the past on my IH Cub Cadets. I like the Briggs version because they take up less space.

 

[mgwin]

I knew it!!! Charlie,you do have a fleet of cubs!

Thanks for the compliments, Jeremiah and Harry.
I have redone two more cubs (70 & 122) since then. Hope to get started on another one soon.
Since then, I have installed OEM headlights on the 128.
Here's a couple more pics of the engine for you to enjoy.

 

[dquillen]

Alright folks, this is the absolute last time I say "one more question" 124 worker, the push blade manual clearly (to my eyes) shows the 3/4" blade support pins going directly into the 3/4" front holes of the sub frame. Am I supposed to spread those sub frame arms to put it together & then squeeze them back to put the hairclip pins in place??? Really???? WTF Help

David

 

[mgwin]

David,

Off the top of my head, I would say yes.
The front push blade on my original goes on that way. You will only need to spread the frame just a little to get the blade on.
It will open with some pressure, and spring back into place once the pins are in the holes.

As for this being the last time for "one more question", I doubt that. I have been, for several years now, asking one more question and will more than likely continue asking.

 

[dschwandt]

David, Got a crow bar??
That's all Ya need
engage one pin I a hole, pry the other arm out a bit til I clears the pin and give the blade a boot, SNAP,,,that's all there is to it.

 

[mgwin]

David,

David S. beat me to the post!
After looking at the manual, yes, you do spread the sub frame.
It doesn't take much spreading to get the pins in the holes.
Put one pin in one hole, then spread the frame just enough to get the other pin in. The frame will spring back together on it's own.
You should be able to manually spread the frame without the help of any tools.

 

[hydroharry]

David - one more thing. 1 out of 100 snow blades I've seen had any type of hair pin, cotter pin or R- clip in those holes. I wouldn't bother.