Archive through June 03, 2014

[dschwandt]

Got a deck belt question. Recently picked up a decent 44C deck and am wondering what belt I need to use this on a QL Cub. The pulley is 4-7/8" OD and looks to be for a huge belt, like 5/8" and is very deep, deeper than the blade pulleys. The mule drive pulleys on my 1450 are for 1/2" belts. Will a 1/2" belt drive the main pulley on this deck? If so, what size do I need?

I'm thinking a 1/2" belt will suck down deep in this pulley and really make that deck scream!

Thanks!

 

[kostendorf]

I've got a 4 1/2 inch pulley on my 44C deck and I use a 1/2 x 77 inch belt.

 

[kostendorf]

I made the sleeve hitch 3" longer and yes I own a few welders but never said I could weld.
Jeremiah, I own a 1650, I only wish I could own a 169. And I have as much yard as I want, I just move the electric fence in and let the cattle have it when I get tired of cutting it.

 

[snicklas]

David,

Since that is a 44C deck, it was originally for an 82 series Cub Cadet. You are correct, it is a 5/8" sheave on the top that is driven from the PTO. From my experience, I bought a IH 782 that came with a 44C and a #2 Tiller. I installed the gearbox on my 1450 with the proper 3/8" belt for the wideframe/quietline Cubs. As soon as there was any resistance on the tiller, the belt would slip. I could not get the belt to not slip, the sheave is just too tall. I did not try the 5/8" belt on the 1450, but figured it would be just as bad on the PTO end since the belt would just be sitting on the outside edge of the PTO sheave. What I did was the 44A that came with my 1450 must have been used to mow a gravel parking lot that was full of boulders. I don't think my 6 year old could have done as much damage with a small sledge hammer. I stole the center spindle in its entirety, just removed the 3 nuts on the carriage bolts and swap the spindle from the 44A to the 44C deck, and now I have a quietline ready deck. Now I just need to rebuild the spindles as the bearings really roar on my 44C deck, should have checked them better while I had them apart. Luckily the 50A that came with my 1650 is nearly silent, so it is the primary mowing tractor till I get the 44C rebuilt.....

 

[hydroharry]

Keith O - don't know about the welding but the paint job sure looks nice.

 

[pmorash]

Harry,
Thanks for the reply.

 

[dschwandt]

Scott, OK, Thanks! So....If I got a speed-up pulley from Charlie that would do the job as well??

 

[danderson]

I got a speedup pulley and a 59971C1 belt from Charlie. Works great.

 

[mgwin]

Hydro Harry and Paul M.,

Both my 70 and Original have the Carter model "N" on them. I did not see any numbers. Educate me, guys.

 

[hydroharry]

Marty - you have to remove the air cleaner and look inside the carb air inlet towards the top. You should see the number "20" stamped there.

 

[stanner]

Keith,
Looks good. You may need to extend the 3-pt pickup point to keep the same lift. I drilled an additional hole in the round upper shaft that inserts into the 3-pt about 2" out, to regain lift.

 

[lhinds]

I got the governor gear out of the 241 and it was not froze on the shaft. I think the tab on the gov. arm shaft came loose, turned to one side enough to catch on the side of the governor.

 

[jclazar]

Good morning IH Cub Cadet.com ! Say, how do I remove an push/pull light switch. The switch is what IH installed on their Cub Cadets. I cannot think of a way to get the knob/shaft combination removed through the dash tower so I can thus remove the switch.

I seen this at my local scrap yard just now, and had to retreat back home { IH Cub Cadet.com } lol! I would like to give the switch a try not knowing if it is good or not, and with out damaging it. I figure to do some horse trading for the switch, and maybe for the nice and rust-free 8.5 rims with so-so condition Carlisle Super Lugs. The tractor I'm looking at appears to be a 1000 or 1200 all-gear drive. Hardly nothing left. It does have a starter solenoid that may test good.

Any help would be great. No point in going back up until I have an understanding on the matter. Still has the IH serial number tag on it too that I would like to save.

Thank you!

 

[mfrade]

John L., I think the knob unscrews from the shaft. Try turning it counter clockwise?

 

[jlspicer]

John,
If you're talking about the push/pull switches with metal knobs, the knobs do spin off. IIRC, there is a small hole in the switch shaft that you can put a small piece of wire or pick tool through to keep it from spinning while turning the knob off. Otherwise, sometimes the shaft will turn with the knob, sometimes they won't.

 

[hydroharry]

John L - yes as the others have noted below the original IH "push'n pull" type light switch will have a hole in the shaft where you can insert a stiff rod, and hold the shaft while you unscrew the knob. However, the thing that bothers me about your information is that the IHCC 1000 or 1200 were wide frame tractors that came with a different style IH light switch. The narrow frame CC's came with the push'n pull switches but the wide frame used a large head knob on a right/left turning style switch. What you're looking at may not be an original style IH switch - but the lug tires with wheels, and the solenoid with other things may still be worth picking up for scrap value. (Don't tell anyone else but I found my 169 right next to a light metal scrap pile at a salvage yard).

 

[kostendorf]

These are types of switches on cubs. I may have missed one or two.

 

[dfrisk]

HARRY - The push/pull switch with the metal knob that Keith posted the top pic. of was actually an Ignition switch which was "re-purposed" to the light application on CC's after being used on roughly a MILLION IH H's, M's, and W-series tractors,many more if you include all the LVL built Farmall's. I was never around any of those little "Farmall's", they were all too little, even H's were too small in the Midwest by 1960 except for light chores and haying.

Note that the knob says, "out-run; in-stop".

Little interesting factoid, the IHC mainframe computer system had another entire side to it other than the purchasing and production work order sides I used. With ANY valid IHC part number I could punch in and get a brief history of the part by location, who had drawing control and ordering authorization, what the cost history had been, and most important, where any inventory was, also showed who the supplier was with contact info. Really came in handy if you were having supplier problems on a part and wanted to borrow some parts for a couple days. Was amazing the number of parts shared between different divisions of IHC.

 

[hydroharry]

Keith - thanks for the pics. I think you actually covered to many.

Dennis - never seen an IHCC with the push/pull "Out-Run, In-Stop" knob. Was it used on the Originals? Even the 70/100's I've seen had the push/pull shown in Keith's 2nd pic. (And for what it's worth, the switch in the 3rd pic appears to be a knock-off. The knob is correct style but the brass colored flat head screw is not, and with all those contacts on the rear I believe it's a replacement for the BIG tractors). Also, never seen the one shown in his next to last pic.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Denny, yep! The Farmall C that my parents used to have used that switch for the ignition switch.

EDIT: Hydro, the top photo in Keith's post is the knob that is used on the switch in the second photo down and yes I believe they were used on some Cub Cadets for the light switch. Probably because the lights were added at the dealer and whatever was in the parts bin got used. I think that that knob was used on the light switch on my #1 125. I'll have to check and report back.