Archive through June 03, 2014

[kostendorf]

Yea Harry I got too new on that one, it comes on a sltx 1050.

 

[dfrisk]

Best picture Keith posted was the one of the spool of RoHS compliant wire!

WHAT a nightmare that was at my last job. Problem wasn't the suppliers, it was getting everybody else, QA, Engineering, etc. up to speed on approving the thousands of parts I had to change.

 

[hydroharry]

Kraig - Oh (sorta) Great One, Keeper of the Photos:
Ya, report back with a pic of your knob

The first pic sure doesn't look like it could be the knob from the switch used in the 2nd pic. I see a hole in the center - so it's doesn't seem like it would screw on.

Also, if you look at the "stem on the knob" in the 2nd and last pic it appears to be short and have a hex base. The stem on the knob in the 4th pic is the one I'm used to seeing - the stem is about 3/4" long and sorta what you see used on cabinet drawer pulls.

 

[kostendorf]

I knew someone would catch that. Dennis you have good eyes. the sltx 1050 didn't even help.

 

[hydroharry]

Keith O - I've got pretty good eyes (20/80 uncorrected) and since you called everything switches I just said the next to last was one I'd never seen. How was I supposed to know it was a spool of wire that you snuck in for some reason.

And by the way, the switch in the forth pic, laying in pieces with the IH bag in the background, is the only type I've seen on the narrow frame tractors, and that style has an IH cast into the switch body. (I wonder if Kraig will get back to us with a pic of his).

And just one more tidbit for all the eagle-eye 100-point restorers, the 3 lock or split washers are not all the same size. The one for the switch knob is ever so slightly larger.

 

[mgwin]

Harry,

You're right, there is a 20 inside the carb on my 70. As for the original, I will assume the same, because I don't really want to take the oil bath off and look.

 

[hydroharry]

Marty - thanks for the come back. Glad I was able to help with "correct" information. On rare occasions I have been known to provide other than correct, but then there is almost always someone on here that catches me.

 

[kostendorf]

Quote(Keith O - I've got pretty good eyes (20/80 uncorrected) and since you called everything switches I just said the next to last was one I'd never seen. How was I supposed to know it was a spool of wire that you snuck in for some reason.)
I did not catch my mistake twice. I even went back to the site and looked again, the pic said sltx 1050. I did not figure it out till Dennis did. I used to read a machinist scale every day for 30 years then very suddenly I could not see the lines without a magnify glass I'm up to 1.75 reading glasses now. The rest was my dry sense of humor.

 

[jenicholson]

1450 hood will not open --I'm thinking the hood slide to the front, locking it. hammer and screwdriver is always a last resort -- any input

 

[jclazar]

Mike Frade, Josh Spicer, Hydro Harry, Keith Ostendorf, and Dennis F- Thank you for the replies. As soon as I read about the hole in the light switch shaft, I knew how to remove it. Please forgive my over excitement, as this is a new part to me. I happen to stumble upon it before I had done my homework, lol!

Ok. Details..... I arrived back at the scrap yard and removed the following parts. I also removed the serial number tag that was on the back of the all-gear drive transmission equipped with external brakes. There was nothing left of this International Cub Cadet but a carcass, and I was not able to correctly identify it the first time today. Hydro Harry was spot on, it was a narrow frame. Serial number #2050037U307592 . The tag looks a little damaged, but worth holding on to condition wise.

From this tractor I removed a light switch. It has a metal knob, and a original yellow wire with a fuse link, there are wire eyes on each end. The push-pull switch cleaned up impressively well. I have a number: T-5-IH {symbol} on one side. On the opposite side are these numbers: 8540-DA . Not to brag, but the switch is in very good condition, even the wire and fuse link holder is p-e-r-f-e-c-t!

Next, I salvaged a starter solenoid. It cleaned up well, and has no apparent reason not to function. Next, I removed the Indak ignition switch. This cleaned up so good it looks new. I have the cup, key {#0487}, mount bracket, two nuts, and the proper ridged washer. I would deem it to be a complete unit.

Don't know what works and what will not work. I ran out of time today. However, I'm not 100% confident that I know the proper way to field test each of these 3 parts, I don't want to risk shorting them out.

I also unbolted a good size handful of IH monogram hardware, a good positive battery cable, two IH monogram battery hold bolts, and I think that was about it. I did note that this tractor had springs between the external brake calipers and I was tempted to remove those as well. I can't recall if my Quiet Line 1450 has such a type of spring. Those were complete sets, and the transmission looked good. Basically it was just a frame and rear pan. Ross unit was still there with out steering wheel would be an easy grab. I did not come away with the Carlisle Super Lug ag tires. He wanted $15 each, and I told him they don't hold air. I came back and asked about the 8.5" rear rims because they don't have much rust and look white still. So at the moment, we're him-haw'ing for a reasonable price, because he will end up paying to have the tires trashed if someone don't buy them. You gotta give them something to chew on for a while. Lol!

I hope to get these parts field tested shortly. Thank you for being there,... love reading the forum everyday!