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Archive through June 03, 2010
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
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- Allen Schumacher
Also, is the driveshaft pin sheared. Seems sometimes they still have enough 'bind' to get it to just move.
After catching up on the last few days of posts (I'm at work) I see there was another roll pin/ spirol pin debate. When I got my 149 the drive hub was worn badly. I welded it up and put a new spirol pin in and it went 6 feet before breaking and flying out at mach 3. Long story short, I changed the whole unit out to a 1450 style with 2 flex discs and the steel ball. No more trouble at all, no vibrations at all. Wish I would have done that sooner. Just my two cents, Nick
J
jott
Guest
theres your problem. the driveshaft is catching inside the coupler just enough to move the tracor, but not enough to pull a load. How long has it been this way? If the driveshaft is worn too much you should replace it. same thing happend to my 123. take a look at the driveshaft and if it looks ok put a new pin in it and it'll be fine.
ALLEN S. - Yes, mowing about 2+ acres and all the trimming, LOTS of trees & bushes. Takes about 3 gallon/mowing, maybe a bit more. Normal mow time is 2-1/2 to 3 hrs, last time was closer to four because I vary directon every time I mow, and there were lots more time wasted turning plus grass was taller. Plus starting & stopping mowing THREE times took longer as well, I normally mow straight thru till done.
Not sure how your little Honda would handle mowing but my little S40 Volvo turns almost as tight as my 982, it's just a bit longer, it would need more clearance under the body for the mower deck, maybe bigger tires? need a wider deck also, at least six feet if not seven.
I considered a belly mower for My Super H years ago but with all my trees a FARMALL is just too tall. I even considered dropping down to 24 or 28" rim dia. rear tires and smaller frt tires. The fact most old letter-series Farmall's don't have live PTO kept me from going any further. If I had a Farmall 300 or 350 /LPTO then I'd probably try it.
Not sure how your little Honda would handle mowing but my little S40 Volvo turns almost as tight as my 982, it's just a bit longer, it would need more clearance under the body for the mower deck, maybe bigger tires? need a wider deck also, at least six feet if not seven.
I considered a belly mower for My Super H years ago but with all my trees a FARMALL is just too tall. I even considered dropping down to 24 or 28" rim dia. rear tires and smaller frt tires. The fact most old letter-series Farmall's don't have live PTO kept me from going any further. If I had a Farmall 300 or 350 /LPTO then I'd probably try it.
Nick, that pin at the engine end of the drive shaft should have a solid dowel pin not a Spirol pin. The Spirol pin belongs at the coupler on the hydro input shaft. Had you installed the solid dowel pin you'd have likely been just fine. Having 'said' that, the QL setup with the dual flex disc is a good mod. I've considered doing that to one or more of my 1x5 series Cubs...
Paul O., the Spirol pin that Allen and Josh mentioned would be in the cast iron coupler that is located at the input shaft of the hydrostatic pump.
Paul O., the Spirol pin that Allen and Josh mentioned would be in the cast iron coupler that is located at the input shaft of the hydrostatic pump.
I have a wide frame 1000 series Cub Cadet. We just installed a new clutch and have it reassembled. Since I am not an experienced Cub Owner, and not a very good mechanic, I have a question. With the motor running, the transmission main shaft turning, I engage the clutch and attempt to put the tractor into gear and I get the gears grinding, and inability to put the tractor in gear. I assume that clutch adjustment is not correct and I should turn the "clutch adjusting nut". Do I tighten (clockwise) or loosen (counterclockwise) ?
CHARLES - I'm making an assumption that the 1000 isn't much different than any other gear drive CC, the adjusting nut should be Tightened (clock-wise)to pull the throw-out lever back farther.
You should also check to make sure the clutch brake adjustment is correct per the procedure in the operators manual, there has to be some "free play", pedal movement without the throw out lever contacting the throw out bearing, then the clutch disengagement area of travel, then braking area of travel.
You should also check to make sure the clutch brake adjustment is correct per the procedure in the operators manual, there has to be some "free play", pedal movement without the throw out lever contacting the throw out bearing, then the clutch disengagement area of travel, then braking area of travel.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Charles-
Did you lube the pilot bushing before you put everything back together? That's probably your problem if you didn't. I can't imagine how you could have the clutch so far out of adjustment that it won't release, as the spring is compressed like 1/2" when you depress the pedal.
Did you lube the pilot bushing before you put everything back together? That's probably your problem if you didn't. I can't imagine how you could have the clutch so far out of adjustment that it won't release, as the spring is compressed like 1/2" when you depress the pedal.
Back to this ST745 thing again, I just had to find it, LOL
1450
I finally got the shaft out and the fan replaced. As it turns out, the second spirol pin needed to be driven out after all. The one at the coupling arm (the manual says it)I just didn't understand front and back and what the coupling arm is. Four days and I purposely avoided removing that pin. It turned out to be the key. Word to others:--Drive that pin. Even with pictures it was missed as the important task for my shaft removal. After it was out, the shaft practically fell away. As to putting it all back. Ignore the colors as I was at the other end of the tractor pulling the engine forward and someone else was doing the assembly. I explained earlier but afterwards he said he didn't understand why the colors? No matter, if it's right as today's pictures show, I'll replace the bolts with the correct length one at a time anyway and put in new jam nuts at the same time. Is the shaft installed correctly? I'll move the fan to 1 1/8" distance at the end. On the PTO end is the shaft correct? I'm thinking that one of the bolts is installed backwards (the head faces toward the engine instead of away and I can't adjust it the other way but if there is clearance does it matter until this autumn? If all is correct the rear isolation mount tops need to be reinstalled and then the four engine bolts. Thanks for all the assistance but I'm not out of the woods by a long shot.
I finally got the shaft out and the fan replaced. As it turns out, the second spirol pin needed to be driven out after all. The one at the coupling arm (the manual says it)I just didn't understand front and back and what the coupling arm is. Four days and I purposely avoided removing that pin. It turned out to be the key. Word to others:--Drive that pin. Even with pictures it was missed as the important task for my shaft removal. After it was out, the shaft practically fell away. As to putting it all back. Ignore the colors as I was at the other end of the tractor pulling the engine forward and someone else was doing the assembly. I explained earlier but afterwards he said he didn't understand why the colors? No matter, if it's right as today's pictures show, I'll replace the bolts with the correct length one at a time anyway and put in new jam nuts at the same time. Is the shaft installed correctly? I'll move the fan to 1 1/8" distance at the end. On the PTO end is the shaft correct? I'm thinking that one of the bolts is installed backwards (the head faces toward the engine instead of away and I can't adjust it the other way but if there is clearance does it matter until this autumn? If all is correct the rear isolation mount tops need to be reinstalled and then the four engine bolts. Thanks for all the assistance but I'm not out of the woods by a long shot.
Kraig, thanks, good to know but the QL setup is definitely recommended. What an improvment! When I got the 149, the p.o. had a 1/4 by 3" bolt stuck through the engine end coupler. You might imagine how beat up the driveshaft and hub holes were. I do remember asking the local IH dealer for the pin I needed and he gave me that spirol pin...for about 6 bucks. That's when I remembered my dad 25 years ago hating to step foot in the place getting parts for our 147. After that I just happened across a posting here or someone may have recommened upgrading to the QL setup and I tried it. Like I said, can't beat it. Nick
KENtucky, from an <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> service manual for the 1x2 series:
From the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> 86 through 1650 service manual:
Having posted the above, I'll add this: paint, dirt, rust, dings, etc., on the drive shaft in the throw out area will cause the drive shaft to not stop spinning properly.
From the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> 86 through 1650 service manual:
Having posted the above, I'll add this: paint, dirt, rust, dings, etc., on the drive shaft in the throw out area will cause the drive shaft to not stop spinning properly.
Kraig - The forum had that discussion back 'round '99 or '00 and it was decided not to lube with grease for the reason I stated.
Having said that , out of the many transmissions I have taken out of vehicles none have ever had lube or been dragging. They do however use a sealed bearing (my TOY) or an oil impregnated bronze bushing. But with oil impregnated bronze there is no actual lube on the trans input shaft.
Having said that , out of the many transmissions I have taken out of vehicles none have ever had lube or been dragging. They do however use a sealed bearing (my TOY) or an oil impregnated bronze bushing. But with oil impregnated bronze there is no actual lube on the trans input shaft.
