Archive through June 03, 2008

[kide]

Kent:
If, as you say, it is predictable that it runs 30 - 45 minutes and then quits, you more likely have a problem related to something heating up and failing or causing the engine to seize. A fuel related problem wouldn't be that regular (except for a plugged cap vent, which would prevent fuel flow as soon as the vacuum in the tank was high enough). You could have a bad coil, condensor, even a set of points that are on the ragged edge of adjustment. Timing could be off, making the engine overheat after a while. You could have a warped or not properly torqued head, a bad spark plug or a piston with too little clearance. It could be that the dipper on the bottom of the rod is busted or somebody put the rod cap on backwards.. It COULD be the carb mixture off enough causing it to overheat..... You could have valves sticking on it after it warms up.. It might have weak valve springs..

 

[lbuttke]

But Charlie,

The condencer bolt was tight, the metal was nice and shinny, and the wire from it to the coil was tight.

However it was not until I took the bolt holding the condencer off that I noticed the wire had broke off at the condencer as it looked to be still attached until I removed the bolt and the condencer hit the ground.

 

[dtanner]

Kent ,just a thought!. my 129 would stop if i ran it over half T and did not open the petcock for the fuel all the way open. She will die and can be started right back up again. it took me awhile to find out what was up lol. Just my .02

 

[theaton]

Kent, before throwing anymore parts at her. I would try to see what you are losing when it dies out. I.E spark, fuel, compression? When it dies out will it fire off with some carb spray? If so, then fuel is your problem! If you don't already have a spark tester, you can pick one up at your local auto parts store fairly cheap. You can also use a screwdriver to check spark, put the tip end in the end of the spark plug wire. Then, holding the INSULATED PART OF THE HANDLE hold the shaft of the screwdriver slightly away from the engine. You are looking for a small gap so the fire can ground against the engine. Have an assistant crank the engine. You should get a good spark, if indead it is firing. I can say that if the engine runs great, then dies out timing should be good. Remember, you have to be losing one of four things required for an engine to run. 4 strokes,fuel/air,compression,spark,exhaust.

 

[bbowman]

Kent, had a similiar problem on my 128.The cure was removing the head and clean all that carbon off the intake valve.That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!

 

[sblunier]

Ken F.

IMHO Get a 44A, the 48" decks are ok, but tend to lose a good tune quickly and their gauge wheel support leaves a lot to be desired. There is nothing wrong with a 48", but I believe the 44" is one of the best decks IH built...and you can get Gators, front gauge wheels, and a Speed-up pulley for them...big improvements!!!!!

Between the 44 and 50, I would choose the 44. They are stiffer, hold a tune better and give great mowing results.

Ken F., Matt G.

Don't misunderstand my comments about engine power in yesterday's post. I was specifically commenting on wanting 16hp or more to run a GT54 deck (at what I consider reasonable mowing speeds). Mine (with brand new deck bearings) uses all of the 18hp that the 782 has if the grass is thick....the GT54 moves a lot of air, cuts a big swath, and does a good job at higher speeds...so it pulls hard when you use it to it's potential.

IMHO, 44" decks can be run on any wide frame with good results (meaning power and reasonable mowing speed). 50" decks are for 12hp gear drives (min.), good fresh 12hp hydros (min.). They are much better handled by 14+ tractors in heavier grass (again at reasonable mowing speeds...equal to 17T second or faster). I guess my standards require that you can actually move along at a pretty good clip.

That said, Matt is correct, it doesn't require 14hp to run a 50".....but it sure is nice to have the power in the thick spring/early summer grass.

 

[sblunier]

Todd,

Yes, you can reuse the pulleys. The spindles are all the same on the decks in question.

Note: You will have to drill another 3/4" hole for the front hanger eyes. Compare the 50A to the 50C and you'll see that the left hanger is offset to the center on the 82 series tractors. I've converted several A's to C's....it's as simple as drilling another 3/4" hole in the right spot. Do that, add your pulleys and deck belt, and you'll be good to go.

 

[kwingerson]

Wow - lots of replies and I didn't even post with a pic ;-) Thanks Bobby, Todd, Donald and Kendell again....

When it dies out after mowing great for 30-40 minutes, I can start it again and nurse it back to the barn or up onto the trailer if I want to get it to a shop. It's just running very poorly at that point.

When it ran for that long it was right after I had been working on the carb. The next time it was started it ran only 2-3 minutes before going bad.

Whatever it turns out to be, I will certainly let the forum members know the fix... that is IF I can fix it. The list Kendell submitted almost makes it seem like I should unload my 149 to a professional mechanic that loves Cubs. It does have a new plug and coil. Fuel flow out of the tank is good.

Thanks!
Kent

 

[kmcconaughey]

Lonny, Charlie, Kent, all, back in the late 1990's my #1 125 developed an issue where it would run fine for about 30 minutes then spit sputter and die like it was running out of fuel. If I let it set for 5 or ten minutes it'd start back up and run fine for a few more minutes. I figured something was getting hot, I thought it had to be either valves, the coil or condenser. The condenser was the cheapest and easiest thing to check so I replaced it and all was well.

<FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>

 

[mgonitzke]

Steve B.-

I was in no way referring to you; you know far more than I do on the subject.

There's been others on here from time to time that say you need 16 h.p. to run a 50" deck, and they don't even own one...

 

[theaton]

Thanks Steve, I will take a closer look at the hangers. I am with Matt G., you know more about this subject than me. Thanks again

 

[kide]

Kraig:
That's where I'd go first too, but since we're playing "long distance analysis" (maybe we need a Help Desk in India), I thought I'd list all of the things it COULD possibly be (and I just hit the high points)...
Kent:
Don't unload it - just brush up on the basics of how a four stroke motor works and get yer hands greasy !! Todd listed the "needs" (Fuel, air, spark, compression, with everything happening at the right times). We're all here to support - as much as we can..

 

[kmchone]

Hey,Charlie and guys,been a while since posting,I lost my dad and its been ruff on me,I have alot going on now but when I get it straightened out I will be back on here,I hope you guys have been cubbing "lots"see ya when I can..

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ken M., good to see you post again, sorry to hear about the loss of your father. I lost my father to cancer just over a year ago, I still think of him daily....

 

[theaton]

Kraig, Kendell, I agree that it sounds like something is getting hot.
Kent, from my experience "new parts" don't always mean "good" parts. Case point, I installed 3,count them 3 fuel pumps(aftermarket) on a 98 Chevy 1500 within a year. Then, I installed the fourth,a GM pump. Either the factory pump is still working or the owner took it to another shop.

 

[kmchone]

Thanks Kraig Mc. it will get better they say I almost forgot how to post,Im kinda lookin foward to charlie climbing my frame over not posting the right way with pics"LOL"well see yall later...kenny m.

 

[digger]

Ken M.
Oh your so abused!

Glad to have ya back though. At least a little anyway.

 

[jwentz]

My fuel tank on my 1650 developed a crack in it yesterday. It is a plastic tank. Is there a way to repair the crack? It is in the side of the tank, near the hold down clamps. Would heat from a hot iron melt it back together?

Thanks,

John

 

[digger]

John W.
It will hold for a while, but when you heat that plastic, it gets brittle and the vibration will crack it again.
Personally, I wouldn't trust it. It could really pop and cause a fire before you knew it.

 

[rchristensen]

Ken M. It will get better, but I still miss my Dad's Saturday phone calls, and he's been gone 15 years.