Archive through June 02, 2013

[kmcconaughey]

Paul B., nice find!

 

[pfitzwater]

I know I have talked about this before. I can't get my pto to NOT engage. I may have put it together to tight, I don't have the gauge that came with the rebuild kit any longer. I remember someone saying that with both nuts tightened there should be about 3/8 of the screw showing? I may be wrong. I had to replace the nuts though with standard thickness nuts.

I think part of the problem is the lever is not in the right position. How do I correct this? it looked like it has a pressed pin going threw it so wouldn't that be the only position It can go it in? unless its flipped maybe?

 

[pfitzwater]

forgot to post the picture of what im talking about

 

[rneubauer]

Digger,
Thats the part in question. Mine is definately older. may try to use it as is and see what happens as this is on my dedicated tiller tractor. Noticed small amount of wear on the pin, guess I could weld it up tonite and file it down. Or just stop being so cheap and order a new one!

 

[mschueck]

Thanks John!

 

[dlbarnett]

Steve B. nice job on the sprayer mount! I just bought a fimco 15 gallon and was thinking of building a mount for it and adding a spray bar. Right now I'm just packing it around in the loader bucket until then. Can you lift it using the three point or is it stationary?

 

[tcbusch]

Charlie Z,
For a 44a deck to fit an older cub you will need a humpback style hanger and custom hanger brackets like I did 5 years ago.

Go here for the pictures. Its the 5th post down.
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/106/64307.html#

 

[mgwin]

Patrick,

Make sure the linkage is right.You can adjust it by the turnbuckle on the clutch lever rod.
Go to the manuals section near the bottom of the topics page and click on operators manuals. Try the 128 manual and go to page 18 where it talks about the front power take-off. Item 5 in the diagram on the right is the turnbuckle. It also tells how to adjust it. If the problem is the PTO itself, i'm sure someone can get a gauge to you at little or no cost. The sponsors at the top of the page will have some for sure.

Thanks to everyone who had a part in providing these fine manuals!!!

 

[pfitzwater]

Well turns out that pin was so rusted it must of broke some time ago. Something is still not right thou the clutch is still always engaged. Should the clutch disc be able to move when tightened properly? There is a little slop with the linkage. I'll check out page 15

 

[czuck]

Steve, Kraig, Charlie, & Terry
Thanks for the information. I have saved all this info and will soon tackle putting the 44a deck on a narrow frame.

 

[dschwandt]

Question on a fresh engine. Got the 321 fired up tonite for the first time and mowed a little with it till a fuel problem started giveing me fits. Anyway, will I have to get it hot again in the morning to re-torque or do it cold? Put maybe 1/2 hr run time on it before it got dark on me.

Thanks!
\
Dave S.

 

[jsalatino]

Charlie... I've got a question 4 you about the idler pulleys on a 104 mule drive.. I'm ready to order new ones from your website,the part# was IH-61176-C92 ,,I know I heard you or somone else talking about the solid steel pulleys that you use if your runnin a tiller/blower or somthing like that. My question is do you have them in stock or should I not worry about gettin the solid ones? I actually only need 1,the side the spring goes on,but I'm going to order both and also a new spring,also a few other small items that I need. oh yeah,by the way I've got a 3 spindal 48" deck, the Sn# on it is 421U1113.. Also would like to replace the belt tensioner on the muledrive. Any info or advice would be helpfull, I'm ready to order. thanks

 

[wshytle]

David S.-

1/2 hr is fine for running an engine until warm for re-torqueing. You want to torque it AFTER it cools anyway so why not just torque it now???

 

[tbdavis]

Muffler question: were the factory mufflers on the 73s black or silver? Thanks.

 

[kshultz]

Mornin' all!
I used my friend's Cat-0 disc the other day and wow it performed great.

So good I had to rush out and buy one for myself.

Now I can't wait to get mine dirty!

 

[kshultz]

Here's another pic.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Shultzie, very nice!

Terry, while you can't always trust the brochures for color and other details, I'd say the muffler for the 73 was silver.

 

[tbdavis]

Shultzie - good enough for me. Goin with silver!

 

[dschwandt]

Well I retorqued the head on the 321 this morning and got an additional 1/4 turn out of them. And the fuel problem turned out to be a leaky float taking on gas. So that is solved.

Now....if I could just figure out the source of the rattle/knock I'd be in business! Has me quite concerned at this point because I can't find anything loose. It sounds kind of high pitched and corresponds w/RPMS when under load.
Nothing at idle though.

When I reassembled it with new piston and rod, I set the valves cold as per the FSM, torqued the rod cap and checked the C/S end play, had to use all the gaskets to get it right.

Perhaps I should pull it back out and check the bottom end??...

Dave S.

 

[kide]

David - does it happen when :
1: Only when accelerating up to speed
2: at the set speed
3: only when slowing engine down
4: all the time

5: Does it do it both hot and cold?

6:What were the clearances on the piston?
Was it bored, was the bore measured top, center and bottom (both front to back and side to side)to ensure it wasn't tapered or ovaled?

7:Are you sure it's not the PTO, (known for this kind of "rod knock / piston slap" noise)? Does it change if you engage/disengage the PTO?

8:Are the driver slots on the flywheel - driveshaft adapter worn?

9:Are you sure the flywheel nut is properly torqued down? and the key is in good shape

Because the Kohler is a single, engine speed is not steady - in every rotation, the rotating assembly speeds up and slows down, which will make anything loose rattle, including clutch, flywheel, driveshaft the change in your pocket and your teeth ...