Archive through June 02, 2009

[jcarson]

Brian,,,well i dont know if its right or wrong but my new kits came with 2 springs,,so i put on 2,,,jared

 

[rpalmer]

Brian Lanasa,

I had the same question and also thought it was a PO thing. Some pto's have two springs as Jared Carson points out on his new kit.

 

[mfrade]

Peter F.O., No, this one is in the middle of a blueberry U-Pick, stuck in between some bushes. Supposedly it's been there for a few years. I'm going to try and get by there this weekend. Where's that loader? I hadn't heard of that one either.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Brian, yes there is a version of the PTO that uses two of the triangle spring. I have one, I also have several other style PTOs, come to think of it I don't think any of my PTOs are the same style they are each unique.

Art, Kendell,

Craig, it is very dry, driest spring that I can recall.

The Z shaped lift bar is a standard shape not modified, I just don't know what it's for. I'm thinking John is correct and it's for the manual lift 82 series.

 

[mbounds]

Kraig: AFAIK, there are three versions of that IH mechanical PTO.

1) Early version uses only a single bent-end tri-spring. The pulley for this version does NOT have the three cast iron "posts" inside the outer lip. Do NOT use the 2 flat-end springs or try to install the Blade brake on this pulley...they will come apart on you....This pulley uses the 759-3490 rebuild kit which comes with one bent-end tri-spring.

2) The next version uses 2 flat-end tri-springs. This version of the cast iron pulley has those three cast "posts" inside the outer lip to keep the two flat-end tri-springs aligned. This version uses the 759-3489 kit which comes with two flat-end tri-springs.

3) The last version uses the 2 flat end springs , has the cast alignment "posts", and has a notch in the outer lip for the tang on Blade Brake disc. It also comes with the OSHA required blade brake. This vesion also uses the 759-3489 Kit which comes with two flat-end tri-springs.

Using only one flat end spring will often get those later model PTO's to engage and disengage but the lack of the required spring tension will cause you to wonder why your PTO is sick.... Many "shade-tree" fixers & other "ingorati" have only used one spring when rebuilding the PTO. So, you may find that combination installed on a Cub Cadet you acquire. I recommend you re-do the PTO and use the 2 springs IH designed to be there and are found in the rebuild kits noted above....

Myron B

 

[mamberman]

I need more than 1-wheel drive in my 104 so I am thinking I can weld the differential locked so that both my rear wheels are always spinning. I only use the tractor to blow-snow and going up my driveway with chains, 350 lbs of weight + me still doesn't get me to the top before I 1-wheel-peel...

Is this a good idea? This seems like a cheaper option than another 100 lbs of weight and a creeper...

 

[kide]

Mark:
Uhhhh.... good luck getting it to turn with a spool diff

 

[kmcconaughey]

Myron, I think I have at least one of each of those and I have two of the third version you mentioned, one of which has the center button for a mechanical brake setup, it came off of a parts 149 that I have. I might have to line up the ones that are not installed on a Cub for a photo.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Myron, this might be some good info for a FAQ entry on the mechanical PTO...

Oh Charlie!

 

[podenbach]

Mike F. I will get you the guys info and send it to you. He is in the same town kinda behind the high school. The loader was in good shape last year when I saw it.

Thanks everyone for the help on the lift bar!

 

[dfrisk]

MYRON - Do You have approximate dates on when the different styles of PTO clutches were used in assembly?

I have the 72 as everyone knows, with what I'll assume is the factory PTO clutch, no three posts, and then I have a clutch off the K321 which Don Vogt told Me came from a 147, same style as the 72's clutch.
Then on the 70, which I also assume is the factory PTO clutch it HAS the three posts. Dad had done some..."Modifications" to put a sealed roller thrust bearing on the PTO, and the clutch would slip, badly, the tired old K181 wouldn't even bog down before the clutch would slip. Plus the release fingers will fall out of the center button. Sounds like the 759-3489 would be the correct rebuild kit for that clutch, but it's on the older CC. Granted Dad had about seven Cubbies and all the PTO pulleys interchange, guess it could be from a newer tractor.

Also, thought I read in a service manual or maybe it was in my old parts book that the single spring is sufficient in 7, 8, & 10 HP tractors, and the double spring was only required in 14 & 16 HP tractors, and depending on usage You can use either in the 12 HP. When I installed the hopped-up K321 in the 72 I installed the clutch just exactly as I removed it from the K241, single spring and all and I'll burn the belts before the clutch will slip. Seems like twice the spring force would greatly increase the wear of the center thrust botton and the fiber wear button.

Just sign Me "Shade-tree Ignorati"

 

[mamberman]

Ide:
Do you have any suggestions? Would I really have that hard of a time turning? I just figured it would hop on a turn rather than push straight.

 

[mgonitzke]

Mark A.-

I've never driven a tractor with a solid rear, but I think you'll have a really hard time turning. When I was younger, I had a go-kart with a solid rear axle that did not like to steer at low speeds because of the solid rear axle. It would only steer good at higher speeds when one tire could slip more easily. When you've got your tractor loaded down with weight, it's not going to want to 'skip' very well. It's hard enough to steer with an open differential when using a Cub in the winter, in my opinion, especially if you have those $#@! multi-rib smooth front tires.

You don't need a creeper to get more traction. You can fill the rear tires with washer fluid if you haven't already, which is a pretty cheap way to get weight. You can put a box of lead or scrap iron on the back, or if you're handy with tools, you could get an external brake rear and do something like this:

<font size="-2">I really should take new pictures now that I painted these and got another rubber cover...</font>

 

[mbounds]

Dennis F: The last PTO version came during the 1x8/9 series with the OHA blade brake requirement. The bent-end springs were certainly used on the NFs and the I believe double springs came in with the increased horsepower about the time of the debut of the 147 . I will see if I can determine the change overs....Maybe the service bulletins can tell me something...I'll look

Myron B

 

[mfrade]

Mark A., I've owned some "Tiger" tractors with solid rear axles. They won't steer worth a darn. Don't weld the differential, unless you can undo the situation cheaply at a later date. IMHO, FWIW, YADA yada yada

Peter, I'll be watching for that info. Thanx!

 

[T-Mo]

Okay, guys, need some advice. I can pick up a 582 (it has the IH 3-speed) with a 50 inch deck and a snow blade. I haven't look at it yet, but it supposed to run and mow great. It looks decent from the pictures. I can get this package for my Wheel Horse 314-8. I know what I have in my WH, but would like another Cub Cadet. Any comments on the 582s?

 

[dfrisk]

Thanks Myron! I've never had a WF new enough that would have the mechanical PTO with brake.
I'd like to get the PTO on the 70 (one with the three posts) working so I could make it a dedicated spraying tractor. Comparing all the parts between it and the other clutches there's not much difference but as You said, They fall apart! if You don't use the right kit.

 

[mgonitzke]

Terry-

The 582 is a great tractor...I really like mine...best plow tractor out of the 3 I've used to plow. You won't regret it.

 

[rhickey]

I agree, it will not steer with the differential welded up.
I have enough weight on mine that it will not spin and it will slide the front wheels sideways (full lock, straight ahead) on mud, snow or wet grass.
It is so bad , I have considered chains or studs on the front for snow plowing.
Keep it open and add more weight, you can always remove weight, welding is forever.

 

[kide]

Mark A:
I don't know - 350 lbs. plus chains plus your weight and you still don't have traction? - MAYBE it's just too steep -what is the grade? BTW- as heavy as the Q/QA series snow throwers are, you need a lot of counterweight just to offset what you've got hanging on the front - it's weird, but there are times I have to drop the QA 42a thrower when backing up, just to get traction.. I've got about 150 lbs. of weight plus my 200+ and this is on fairly flat ground..