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Archive through July 26, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Denny,
I did not part them all,just buy and fix and sell...a lot pullers by the rollers for the trannies.
But a few did,the hopelessly bad and ugly ones that were left out in the elements for 20+ years,that were picked clean,or rolled over,missing motors,trannys ect....
 
KRAIG - SON & I painted the cc 70 hood with base coat/clear coat with hardener in the clear. Will still be a while until SON can mount the hood, he wants to polish the clear for better shine, then install the decals (Thanks Charlie!
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) The hardener in the clear makes touch-ups a bad idea, and I'm not sure the hardener makes the clear hard enough to ward off scuffs & scratches. I'm waiting to see what his results are before I repaint the 72. The rattle can paint job I gave it back in Jan/Fed. 1981 is showing it's age!

I bought a spray can of Iron Guard 935 white & 483 yellow for touch-up on the 70, think they were $8/can. So a $20 or $23 can of paint better be really good. Two shades of black, clear & gray primer, not a big choice of colors, but the technology with the can is interesting. I did enjoy the "Paint Shaker".

SON was going to try Eastwood's 2K Ceramic Chassis black kits on his '93 Lightning if he kept it. 6 yrs ago we rebuilt the rear axle the last time, everything that moved was new or replaced, diff case, ring/pinion, all bearings & seals, new alum. diff cover with pre-load for the bearing caps. We tried to clean it up best we could with the pressure washer in a Wis January, and get all the rust we could off the housing, then sprayed two rattle cans of Rustoleum gloss black on it and reinstalled the axle. 3-4 months and 2000 miles later all the paint was gone. I guess all the salt & sand WI uses on winter roads blasts paint off really well!
 
Gentlemen,

I have a 149 that is leaking at one of the connections in front of the check valves. I have tightened the nut as much as possible; but it is still leaking.

Is the remedy to buy a new line?
 
Thanks Jeff. The IH symbol is homemade. The weight bracket, from Xtreme, worked great.
 
Greg I see two 25 pounders on each wheel and it looks like 8 suitcase's. How much do they weigh each?
 
George F.
IF you have taken things apart and made sure that the tube is not cracked, I would try a couple rounds of Teflon tape and see that would seal it.
If that doesn't work, it's time for a new tube assembly.
 
The suitcase weights are 10 lbs each = Midwest brand.
 
This was the one I was really after. Cub Cadet 70 with a 10 (or 12) powerplant. New points, a carb cleanout, and a leaky fuel line repair and she runs pretty good. Gonna have to make a better bucket though.
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Update: Got the carb on the 1650, oiled up the engine, gassed up the gas tank, put a battery in the tractor, rolled it out of the basement, turned the key ON and nothing, not even a click of a solenoid...
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At least it's out of the basement...

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John nice score with the loader,,,and the fleet of cubs
 
Very nice loader, is it homemade? It looks different than a Danco or Johnson?
 
Bill: Is the 12 volts at the key getting to the solenoid? (Do you have 12 volts at the key?)

*Ground connections bright & no paint?

*Fuel getting to the carb from the tank?

*If you have spark . . . will it start after either dumping gas down the throat of the carb, or spraying either starting fluid (ether) or carb cleaner down the throat of the carb?

Just some thoughts, I'm sure you'll figure it out.
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Jeremiah C - thanks for the tips! It was getting dark when I pulled the 1650 out and will take another look-see at it Sunday and next week.

I've also got to get a deck ready for this tractor. I've got a CCC deck from what I believe was a 1862 tractor. I believe it to be a 50C deck painted yellow with anti-scalp wheels on it vs runners. I need to swap out the wider belt pulley for the narrower belt used on a 50A deck. I've got a pulley off a 44A deck I may try. Not sure if it will work, not sure if the diameter causes the belt length to change - we'll see.

On another note, I pulled the 3 point hitch and helper spring assy off the 122 tonight. It will go on the 126.

The rainy day made for a good day of basement work on the IHCC's today...
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Bill-Did you check and make sure the safety switch on the brake pedal isn't giving you issues?
 
Quick paint question. Anyone know for certain if the pulleys on the starter/generators were originally painted or left bare? Thanks
 
Yesterday, I used the 1250 Nightmare for parade duty, and it handily pulled Heartland Industries' entry without incident.

Recently, I put new front tires on the machine. I also replaced one wheel because the hub was worn to the point where they would no longer hold the bearings. I had to drive out the bearing from the replacement wheel because they were siezed. I used the bearings from the tractor with the new wheel. There were a lot of shims in place on the axle. I removed two shims to get the wheel bolt to tighten, without end play on the wheel. On the way back to the staging area, the wheel bolt and retaining washer came off. At the staging area, I discovered the inner wheel bearing had totally come apart. I was able to find the bolt and the retaining washer about ten blocks away.

So the questions. What did I do wrong when I put the bearings into the wheel? What is the proper way to set a bearing in a hub? How can I assure that the wheel bolt will stay tight, and yet allow the wheel to roll? Should I replace all the wheel bearings, or just the bad one? I repacked the bearings when I put on the new tires. How much grease is necessary?

I wish I knew why this happened.
 
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