Archive through July 26, 2009

[kmcconaughey]

I'll second what Art wrote about RPRU. Good to see some old friends again, good to put some more faces with names meeting more fellow forum members in person.

I know there were more forum members there that I was not able to meet that I would have liked to have meet up with. Wow there was a LOT to see.

 

[ccarney]

Robert Clements

Tell us the numbers on the starter generator for your blue Original cadet. It should say something like: 11019xx and then another code.

It could help us figure if indeed your s/g is from the upgrade kit Paul B is referring to.

 

[rrschmitt]

David L,

I see you have 100's. Are you trying to remove the exhaust elbow pipe from the engine block? There generally is a locking ring on the elbow where it screws into the block that you need to loosen first. To loosen the locking ring, you have to use a chisel and hammer. You mentioned that you are needing to work on the PTO clutch. Not exactly sure what you are all up to but it might be easier to just remove the front grill assembly and hood to get access to the clutch rather than messing with the exhaust. Just a helpful suggestion.

 

[wtatge]

Thanks Bruce. The weights do seem to move freely. One moves a little more drastically than the other but they do both move. I do not have the head apart, should I put the oil pan back on and rebolt the motor back in? Also I would assume a new pan gasket is in order since I opened it up right? Should I pull the head off and see what is going on there or should I start to trouble shooting somewhere else?? I really appreciate all your help with this I really need/want to get this tractor running again.

 

[dsacksteder]

Why are the hoods on the 100's i just got getting hung up in the steering wheel when i open and close them? There doesn seem to be a slot to adjust them. THanks,Dustin

 

[bnolte]

William,
I sent you an email about the pan gasket and the compression release. If you get fuel and spark, but it still refuses to run, I would pull the head and check for things like a blown head gasket, burned valves, and the like. You can also check for cylinder wear easily with the head off as well, but even if the old head gasket is intact, I would recommend replacing it anyway.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Dustin, place a thick washer onto the two rear mounting bolts, between the grill and the frame for the grill casting, this will tip the grill slightly forward and provide a bit more clearance for the hood/steering wheel. I believe that over the years people run into things and slightly bend the frame, so you may also be able to remove the grill frame and bend the frame back but that is easier said then done, the washers are a faster and easier fix.

 

[jcleer]

Does anyone here have any drawing or how to built a tricycle front end? I am thinking of making a mini 706 out of a ragged out 682.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Joe, Paul Funk built a Cub Cadet based Mini-H, have a look at Paul's Website and see if there's enough info there for you to go on.

 

[dfrisk]

JOE - I think a 682 would be a better starting point to make a 3X88 or 5X88 tractor.

A 70 or 100 would be better for a 706 I think. 70 & 100 make a great 460/560, and a 1X8/1X9 or 1X00/1x50 without side panels make nice 1X66 & 1X86'a. The "06 & '56 series are kinda tough, but I still think a 70/100 would be best.

 

[jcleer]

Thanks Kraig I knew somebody here did one (two) but couldn't remember. Yes Paul has alot on there to go by. Thanks to Paul also. This is all in the planning stages so I'll have to wait and see what progresses out of it.

 

[jcleer]

Dennis I agree. The reason I want a 706 is paps bought one brand new and was on the farm till he retired. It is still in town though. I have been trying to buy it for a couple years but the farmer still uses it so he doesn't want to part with it yet. As for useing the 682 I already have it sitting around. But today I have been thinking on building my own frame and just using the driveline out of it.

 

[jcleer]

New thought............. maybe the 682 could become a 1468/1568 I have always loved the V-8's. you know--- the heads peeking out under the hood and the dual stacks

 

[snicklas]

Rob N,

The 2B tiller with the 5/8 pully on a Wideframe/Quietline. I have that same setup on my 1450, and well, it doesn't really work. I bought a 782 with a blown engine (imagine that) that everything else was decent, and it came with a tiller, gearbox, mule drive and belt. I bought the 1/2 belt for a wideframe and put the gearbox on the back, as is. When I went to use it I put the 782's mule drive on and went to put the belt on, and I had a devil of a time, and when I finally got it on, it went back up front and found the belt rubbing on the springs/bar in the mule drive. The wideframe and 82 series mule drives are designed a bit differently. So I put the mule drive on for the mower, with the angled pulleys, and put the belt back on. With it tightened correctly, when I put the tiller in the ground, instead if it muscleing thru the ground and loading the engine, the belt slips on the bottom pulley of the gearbox. I can lift the tiller back up and get it spinning with out a problem, but I cannot let it dig in and really chew up the soil. I am looking for a replacement pulley for the gearbox, so that I can use the tiller correctly because the bottom pulley is the only difference. I plan on modifying, or replacing the mule drive out of the other "stuff" we have, but that is not 100% necessary.

 

[rmclements]

Craig C.

The number on the S/G on the ole' blue O is 1101955 which in listed as the model number. The next part is labeled as the serial number and is four digits. The middle two are kinda hard to read but it is:
1 , G or 6 , 1 or 4 and 0

My best guess is: 1G40.

Thanks for all your help.

Rob

 

[mstetar]

hey quick question i need to know about how much a rebuild kit is for a 682, a guy said he has a 682 and a 582 that both run but lost (power) he said they need rebuilt and if i rebuild the 682 he would give me the 582, does that sound like a good trade? and how much harder is it to do one of those motors vs. a kohler "k" being a twin and all?

 

[dclinansmith]

Richard C. I think your idea is better than mine for the headlight problem. I will follow your example if mine gives any hint of failure. While I am thinking about it I tried another solution for getting stubborn steering wheels off. I have had two lately that just wouldn't let go. The first one was on my 149, I removed the two bolts that hold the steering column to the frame.I sat on the seat with the wheel between my legs and gave it one hard whack with a medium size hammer,it let loose easily. I thought it might have been just dumb luck but I did another rusty one and it came loose on the first try as well.

 

[dylschmidt]

I met a lot of great people at RED POWER ROUND-UP

THE 1650-4 MET ITS GRANDPA

had a lot of fun. glad to have met a lot of you from this site...

 

[mgonitzke]

Matt S.-

That's hard to say. If you can get by with new rings and the gasket set (get a new governor gear no matter what), you can get by for about $100. You can toss $400+ at it real fast if you need new rods and pistons and any machine work. Aftermarket rods are more than $50 each; I don't know what the pistons cost. I would also replace the mains while you're in there. Here's a good place to get the parts:

www.tewarehouse.com

If it's a series I KT17, you really would be better off finding a different engine. Series I parts are NLA, and a lot of the Series II parts are different.

They aren't too difficult, there's just two of everything. You have to be VERY careful with a couple of things, like putting the RTV around the case halves when you put it back together. (Do this wrong and you can potentially blow the motor up...The motor in my 782 did this after the PO rebuilt it) Otherwise, it's no more difficult than a K-series. I've done a couple of the twins and one single, and the twin isn't much harder...it just takes twice as long. A manual is a must, of course.

 

[lchockensmith]

hey guys the " O " is running,working on the mower deck one of the gage wheel axle's is about wore thru does anyone know are they pressed in, or are they welded in thanks in advance.

LCH