Archive through July 24, 2007

[lbuttke]

Soon we will be all talking again about the next

That is after this heat wave and dry spell is over with.
Haven't had to mow the grass for over a month.

 

[bbranstetter]

Kirk,

Hydo's suck up a couple extra horse, thats the price you pay for the control. Many times, given the circumstance this 'lose' is more than made up for by the gain you get in the control area. For pullers you only go in a straight line and need to get all of the power to the rear wheels. The added weight of the hydo unit also adds (messes with) into the equation for a puller, where as it addes(good thing) for some one who is plowing, discing or using a loader. However, with mold bord plowing, ground conditions can make it difficult to maintain a consistant ground speed.

Hope this helps

 

[ctrost]

not neccessarily looking to buy just yet, so not in the want ads, but does anyone have a p/n and/or availability info for the throttle knob and handle assembly for a 782? original mechanism is broke, and only thing cub dealer says is available is a plastic yellow one from a new cub

?

 

[hydroharry]

Hey Kraig = thanks for posting those old pics of me. I remember those days, working on cubs with cool tools (I think that's what the label says).

Another thing - that Pop Corn sure has done some great restorations. But one really bothers me. That 1000 without the side covers. I hope it ain't been forgotten that the Quiet Lines were designed "with" the side covers to help keep the hot exhaust away from the engine. The flywheel is supposed to push cool air to the air cleaner (not ram air but at least it doesn't rob horsepower) and up over the head to help the cooling. Without the side covers the exhaust comes back around the entire engine - well that's the theory anyway - it just ain't right running a Quiet Line without the covers (as long as everything else is in place) (If you didn't figure it out yet, I am partial to QLs - my 1st Cub was a 1450).

Dave H - well sorry that 126 isn't one of my restorations - but the good news is that does look to me like a nearly brand spanking new engine along with that Kohler painted new gas tank. Those skidder shoes on the snow thrower look done right too. As for the gravel - just don't direct that shute in the direction of any windows OR CARS for at least 50 feet. I also recommend the creeper. The thrower does work greatest on the Hydros tho. With the infinitely variable speed (taken directly from the manual) using a single stage snow thrower is ideal since you need to vary your speed depending on the weight, density, and depth of the snow. Manuals work good but you will be riding the clutch.

Charlie - I never done that - never forgot to push the coil wire down. Now I have forgot to put it on altogether, just never forgot to push it down - AND even when I did, I just pushed "easy" on it (hehe).

And now for all of ya - on this Gear Drive vs. Hydro thing it sounds like time to debate it again. I heard all the stuff about Hydros robbing a couple horsepower - but I never thought they stole anything - they "use" that horsepower. And even if they use a couple, IH made 14hp and 16hp Cubs so they more than offset what some think is robbed. The Hydros also got the bigger mowing decks so they HAD TO actually have more power. And one more thing, I'll take a Hydro Lift anyday over a strong-arm lift (I know some of the manuals got optional hydro lifts).

Now that I've won the longest post of the day award again I guess I can sign off.

Hydro Harry
(Hydros Forever)

 

[thill]

Are the drag link & tie rod on 169's the same as the 1250 1450 1650? Will they just swap out?

Thanks!

 

[rbedell]

Colin T:

From the Parts Manual...

 

[rwilke]

'Hydro Harry' B.,
If you'll notice Pops 001 pic, you'll notice his beautiful 1000 WITH beautifully restored side covers on...

I agree withcha, Pops sure did do a GREAT job of making 'er shine!

Ryan W

 

[thill]

Tom H,
I was 1st!

Charlie,
Man that arm looks painful. Take care! And I can see why you'd want (need) the hydraulic lift. My 2nd 169 has a manual lift that I did'nt see till I got there to pick it up, thought it might be a big problem but not so far although I just picked up a QA42 Thrower and that might be a pain to keep lifting. Just aquired the rest of the parts to convert it to Hydro Lift but don't look forward to taking it apart.

Anyone,
My 128 does not want to go into nuetral, reverse or 1st. Recently broke off the small ball end of the shifter and got it fixed. Worked for a bit then got stuck in 2nd & 3rd. Any hints?

Thanks!
Tom H (#1)

 

[rbedell]

Tom H:

YUP....according to the Parts Manual

 

[digger]

NOW that's what I'm talkin about Harry!
Get up in the morning and have somethin to read right off the bat.

Thanks Harry.

 

[kmcconaughey]

My driveway is all gravel and I use a QA42 to clear it. I have the extra runners welded on the skids and I have them set so it holds the cutting edge up about an inch. I also drive on the first few small snowfalls to pack it down. It does get a bit sloppy come spring or during a mid winter warm spell but it beats having gravel all over the lawn.

Oh and wheels on a snowthrower has been done! Here's a setup that Brian Jordan did to his QA42A:

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Brian Jordan /149 (Bjordan) on Saturday, January 19, 2002

The Grand Experiment! I added some wheels to my QA42A skids to see if I can eliminate the twin scrapes it leaves behind on my drive way. I had a couple of MTD 5" gauge wheels laying around so I drilled a hole centered in each skid and bolted them on. I had to add about 5 3/8's washers to each skid bolt to give clearance to the nut securing the wheel. I still get good vertical adustment.

...had to turn my nuts around too(you know how painful that can be).

A quick test on the ride back out to the shed and all seemed well. It even handles going up the concrete ramp better. A little snow here today continuing into tonight but so far not enough to use this on. Here's hoping.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ryan, Hydro Harry's other nick name here was "eagle eye" or something like that. He's an expert at spotting non-stock stuff or noticing something missing on a Cub Cadet. However he's been away for a few years so his eyes ain't what they used to be! In the mean time don't go treating him too much like a

<font size="-2">(though a little can be fun)</font>

cause he'll be up to speed and past ya in no time flat.

Give him a few days back and he'll be as good as new.

<font size="-2">I've been wanting to use that nOOb GIF for the longest time......</font>

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tom Hill, ummm, I hate to let you down but Tom Hoffman has you beat by, oh, about 9 years. He was posting here back in March of 1998. We have lost some of the posts over the years but we do have some of them. For some interesting reading have a look HERE It's an archive of the first version of this forum. Note post #32.

I'm not sure what happened to posts 11 through 31 but I have a feeling that Tom H's first post was somewhere in there.

My first post was in November of 1998, post #1075. And just because I know he's gonna ask, near as I can tell Hydro Harry's first post was on May 8th 1998, it was post #234.

 

[bcorn]

Thanks guys for the wonderful compliments. That is what this hobby is all about when my peers say "atta boy".

Question answered: The wheelie bar is for the dead weight pulls that are popular in my area. Finding out; that the front cast iron is kinda of difficult to balance and I WILL not change it. So most likely will be looking for a 108 (my first cub owned) and making that my puller.

Also I do understand the design of the QL's and know that the side panels are there for a reason. I have the left side off for 2 reasons. 1. Taking the 1000 to a local tractor show this week and want people to be able to see engine detail. 2. I put a 1 inch spacer on the carb and I do not want to scratch that panel. LOL's. Lot of things that I incorparated on the 1000 will get moved to the puller someday.

What suprised me is nobody asked about the mower deck. Its a 44A but has the front part modified from 1/2 moon slide bar to leveling wheels. I helped my father-in-law back in 90 add that after one of the kids bent the heck out of the first glides.

Now for the Hydro VS Gear. I think Cub Cadet madet a mistake when they stopped offering the creeper drive but each one has it own purpose. Personally I like the Hydro better for mowing, rototilling, snowblowing. But, for plowing, snowblade, pulling gear works better. The answer to all this is to own 1 of each!!!!!

Again Thank you for the kind amd graceful words, that is why I like doing what I do to bring a little history back to life for others to enjoy.

Now for the 1650 its "next". Oh and I do use both of them for mowing. "Ya got them use them."

Pops

Especially Thank you to Kraig for posting my pictures; I know old iron not computers. LOL again

 

[dfrisk]

Well, It's NOT a debate unless someone takes the alternate perspective. Other than around FARMALL in the late 70's & early 80's was I ever around a Hydro CC. They used them all over FARMALL to pull trash hoppers, lawn maintenance, remove snow from driveways, etc. I got to know the head of the maintenance garage really well during the BIG Strike of '79 & '80 and We got to talking Cubbies. When they got their first hydro their up-time went WAY up as opposed to the gear-drives because of the lack of clutch/brake problems. I got My first hydro in about '90, a basket-case 129 that had been over THOUSANDS of acres of lawn. Other than a couple hydro oil changes & filters and replacing that stupid cork gasket once I had NO problems with it.
That said, I use My gear-drives MORE than My hydros, which is now just a 982 w/50C deck. It mows faster than the 70 (which doesn't "Mow" at all!) and the 72 w/38" deck. But I don't just mow. I haul trash, tree trimmings, been to a couple plowdays, push snow with the belly-mounted grader blade, I've even run the QA-36 blower with the 72 a couple winters in the last few years. Snow gets deeper than 3-4 inches the FARMALL's come out. With the K181 in the 72 I could only handle 3" deep snow well, with the K241 about 5-6, with the K321 in there now I don't think the blower would handle the HP and I'd wrap the auger up in a little ball!

A K301 should be able to run a QA-36 without a creeper fairly well. Get in deep snow just take half a swath.

And keep Your speed up. Without pulling something REALLY heavy those little 4-1/2" single plate dry clutches can take a LOT of abuse.

If Your only going to have ONE Cubbie I really don't think it makes a difference whether You have a G/D or Hydro. I can actually trim around trees/bushes as fast with the G/D as I can the hydro. I find I sometimes run out of hands with the Hydro when I can ease into a place using My left foot. If your going to have TWO Cubbies, then get one of each.

At the last PD where I had My 982 I checked the hydro temps of My 982, Wyatt's 169, and I think Bryan had His 1650 or 1450. Those hydros DO get warm when pulling hard, 225-250 Deg. F., almost too hot to touch! My G/D was about 55-60 Deg. F., just about ambient temp.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Denny, I remember that Plow Day, (PD4 BTW), that was at Bluniers when Wyatt's front tires looked like they belonged on a steam roller.

That soil was a bit on the sticky side.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Pops, always glad to help out. I did neglect to mention how nice that 1000 looks so I'll do it now. Wow, that is one nice looking 1000!

Well done!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tom Hill, I should point out that I wasn't picking on you with my post this morning. All in fun.

I know sometimes it's hard to tell the intentions in just text....

 

[kcumberland]

Kraig - On the Linamar pan, sorry. I had thought about it on Friday last week, but when I got to it on Saturday, I dove right into the work and forgot the camera.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kent, thanks, I end up forgetting to take photos when I work on my Cubs too. Makes it worse when my hands get greasy, I really don't want to touch my camera!