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Archive through July 23, 2015

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nbextermueller

Well-known member
Joined
May 18, 2007
Messages
909
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Nic Bextermueller
beerchug.gif
. Lol agreed. My thumbs are way the big to be replying via iPhone.
 
Nic - 1/2 way there... Small engine EFI would make a Kohler flathead much happier than the carbs we use now.. With the CDI and EFI, they'd probably run forever....
 
Oh, there are plenty of EFI conversion kits... I don't want to post much more on the IH board here, cause we are waaaay off topic. But EFI has alot of wire and a small CPU.

Remember the long drawn out 3 page excercise we had a few weeks back about 1 extra red wire from a VR? Look at the confusion that caused. Adding a full extra 15-20 wire harness ans sensors to our beloved machines that can't be adjusted with a screwdriver might cause some folks a stroke.

Although the diesels over in the MTD forum don't cause too much pain.
 
OK Nic, we'll go back to empty pages...... Probably better not talk about David Kirk's products either - too highfalutin' for the main forum, eh?
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Whatever...
 
Nah, you'd never want to get off topic. Folks will whine about ya to one of the admins.
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Gerry, if you'd like more information about small engine EFI, Google is only a few clicks away.

I've had plenty of posts
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-ed for straying to far. I don't make the rules, I just try to stay within seeing range of them.

If you want some eye candy... check this baby out. It's even a bolt on application if you have a fuel pump capable of 45psi with a return line. there is even a tiny hint of who makes it if youd like more information.
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My 129 engine problems
I am still working on finding my problems with the engine. I am going to send my Point Slayer ignition back to have it checked. I tried to install my old points and that is a real nasty job. There has to be a better way. The Point Slayer which was sold by Kirk was/is great. I removed the old set, installed the Point Slayer system and had it running in less than 1 hour.I hope that I can keep using this. How does everyone install points and set the timing? I spent just about a day trying to get the timing right.
There was conversation regarding the drive rod pin. I am lucky as I had to heat it to remove the pin and heat it to drive in the new one.
At this point I am thinking I may have ignition because it started to run rough and also started to make popping noises. When it was doing that I could see black coming out so it was running rich, so it might be two problems or one causing both. One step at a time
Earl
 
its not that difficult, I'll usually gap them at .020 then fine tune it from there. A test light, ohm meter, timing light, continuity light can all be used to set timing just like the point savers little light.

Wyatt: looking good!
 
Earl, what did you have to heat? The engine block or the pin? Neither of those items should require any kind of heat to "drive" in. The pin should slide freely in and out to operate the points.
 
Don:
What procedures do you do when you set the timing. I set the points at 20 and did not see the timing mark (with timing light)and did not know which way to go. After some trial and error I put some extra marks on fly wheel and then stared to fine tune. It still took me for ever to get it right on. It would be nice if there was a slot instead of a little round hole to see where you are. something like a car engine.

Nic:
I heated up the drive shaft to install the pin in it not the hub that attaches to the engine
Earl
 
Sorry Earl, I didn't catch the topic change. I though you were still talking about the point pin.

Glad to read your not hammering that in.
 
I used a pointer magnet on my 125 to set the points . with the s mark in the sight hole I marked the starter gen pulley on the point side and used my magnet pointer to align that mark . the rest was easy with spark plug removed spinning the engine over and setting the points. The 125 started up first try so I must have got it real close.
 
I have an issue with my 169. It will start and run just fine it seems for as long as I need it. Once I shut it down I can try and start it the following day and it just winds. It has spark but won't respond to even a shot of ether. The next day it will start just fine and again run as long as I need it. This has happened now for a couple of weeks and it pi$$es me off to no end.

Any suggestions? What should I check knowing it is getting spark and gas? I also use a battery pack so I know it's getting plenty of voltage.

Nice video Charlie!

Don-

I do the same thing when timing an engine. I just put two small aligned marks, one on the flywheel screen and the other on the housing (both on the left side) when the S mark is centered in the round hole. That way I don't have to walk around the tractor to check where the mark is. I then just do a static timing and it has always worked well.

.
 
129 Engine
I have one more question
I have the Point Slayer ignition
I have lined up the timing mark in the hole at an idle but when I increase the RPMs the timing mark moves out of the sight hole. My thought is that it should not move. Am I correct, if so I have an ignition problem
Earl
 
Wayne I had the same issue with my 169, found a short in the wiring harness on the wire from the sg F back to the voltage reg
 

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