Archive through July 22, 2006

[digger]

Lucas,
Unless your going to turn that cub into a puller, there's no reason to go with the 6 pin. It lasted this long with 3, why mess with it!
But yes they do make 6 pins for pulling.

BUT hang on to your wallet!

 

[jbrubaker]

BTW speaking of clutch's, A few months ago i put a new clutch in my 128. Whenever you put the tractor in neutral and push the clutch in the drive shaft continues to spin. this shouldn't happen but i can't figure it out. I put a new 3 pin in while i did it because the other was junk. could it be that the drive shaft is a little tight in the 3 pin. you can stop the shaft from spinning with ur hands while in neutral.

 

[digger]

Jeff B,
Did ya go by the manual?
http://cubfaq.com/mechanical_clutch.html

 

[lperry]

I didn't know how strong they are becuz this tractor has no sings of pulling anything when the driver disenagraded.

 

[mgonitzke]

Jeff B.-

Did you grease the pilot bushing or the end of the driveshaft before you but the driveshaft into the 3-pin driver? If not there may be enough friction there to keep it spinning. Otherwise, something is misaligned or out of adjustment.

 

[jmacdonald]

Could somebody help? My mod 125 doesn't show a charge on the amp meter. The starter/gen has been checked as ok. I thought I had it narowed down my 3 terminal voltage requlator. Reluctantly I removed a worker from my beloved mod 70. Seeing that they were both 3 terminal I hooked it to the 125 and when I connected my battery the starter wanted to turn. Digging further I realized the terminal designations are not in the same place and hope I haven't cooked anything. Should a mod 70 and mod 125 be interchangable? My service manual shows different IH part numbers for regulators and when I downloaded a wiring diaram for the 70 it shows 4 terminals even though I removed a 3 terminal. I checked the FAQ and did a search in the archives, and read how the regulator should work. Not having worked on regulators before I wanted to be sure I am not missing something obvious.
Thanks,jimmac

 

[wcompton]

Lucas-
Unless you're going with the Midwest Super Cub 6-pin driver you won't be able to use a narrow frame hydraulic lift, not sure if that's your plans, but beware.

As far as the clutch, a new OEM driver, a new clutch disc, and maybe some other parts just for prevention, ... will last a long time, even under severe plowing duty.

 

[mgonitzke]

James M.-

The 70 and 125 regulators should be the same. The 4th terminal that is on some is a grounding tab. The terminals are marked, so if you connect the wires to the correct terminals it should work. It is possible that someone may have change the regulator on one of them to a different style, too. People can do a lot of things to a tractor in 35+ years. If you have the service manual for the tractor, it tells you how to adjust the regulator. It may be that the contacts are dirty or pitted. Once again the manual is a great help. One other thing, if you are using the tractor's ammeter to determine that it isn't charging, then check it out some other way, because those ammeters are rarely accurate.

 

[rbedell]

James M:

Here is a Chart for the Cub Cadet Mechanical Voltage Regulators. This information came from CC Parts and Service Manuals.

The OCC and 70/100 used a 4 Terminal V/R and all the rest used a 3 Terminal V/R.

I have consulted a Electrical Engineer on this issue of using 3T V/R on 4T applications and vice versa. There is a reason that the IH engineers spec'd out each V/R for it's application. There are dynamics and circuitry that effects both. Therefore, it is my suggestion, to follow what the Parts and Service Manual indicate for your model.

Lastly, it is imperative, that the V/R is properly grounded to the chassis. Make sure that this connection is good as well as the other wires and wire connections to the V/R.

(Message edited by RBedell on July 22, 2006)

 

[jbrubaker]

charlie-
I followed the directions
Matt- i did grease it

But the one thing i don't understand is there are washers where you adjust the clutch. If u take these out you have 2 inches of play instead of the 3/ 16. My guess is that since its a new 3 pin my shaft could have been wore a little so its just a little snug. Eventually it will prolly wear down. if not ill have to tear it apart and maybe sand it a little

 

[jbrubaker]

Just a question out of the blue, I'm slowly getting my tractor ready for winter and want to get some good lights. Were the alternators on the 128's 15 amp or were some different?

 

[mgonitzke]

128 has starter-generator and thus no alternator like the engines with bendix-drive starters...but the output I think is 15 amps.

 

[gharbaugh]

on the voltage regulators the three and four post will interchange, the fourth post is marked l for load. It just send curent to the switch or where ever you want power without going to the bat. or someother power supply. Just hook (g)to generaterand (b) to batt (f)to the field post

 

[digger]

Got a couple new toys this weekend thanks to Nick Queensland.

 

[eplummer]

Hi Everybody,
I attended a great truck/tractor/air show this weekend. It was at the Owls Head Transportation Museum in Rockland,ME I would say between the museum's collection and private exhibitors there were over 500 pieces of iron. I did see a few cubs. A 100 and a few 70's. Was it any of you guys?
Maybe my rough around the edges 1650 will make the trip next year. Is it the chronic stage of yellow fever when you take your cub on vacation with you???

 

[bcorn]

Ok guys ol pops is at his wits ends. My "new" 1000 still having carb problems. Rebuilt this thing all new parts plus finding the bowl vent was plugged. Adjusted the needle valves and the tractor runs great.

Except---I can sit there and watch this thing not a narry a leak so I sit a mud pan under the carb come out in the morning and the fuel has drained out into the pan I have the patience of a judge but its now pass that.

Any ideas now ol wise ones? Also am I only restricted to using a Model 26 carb? New might be good!

Pops

 

[aowsley]

Pops, turn the gas shut off valve to off when your done.

 

[digger]

Hmmm, it said it couldn't connect, guess it did!

(Message edited by cproctor on July 24, 2006)

 

[digger]

Yea but if he does that, He'll forget to turn the sucker back on when he tries to fire it up the next time!!!
Then he/I spend 20 minutes trying to find out WTH it won't start!

 

[rbedell]

Pops:

I had the same issue with my 1450 as you do. Drove me nuts. I called the Tech Service Dept at Kohler and discussed this issue with them. There are a number of reasons that can cause this, to which you have addressed most of them. It was suggested by the Tech Rep, that I install an inline fuel filter (around 25 microns in filter capacity). I did so, and I have NOT had an issue since. There can be enough "sediment" in the fuel tank, lines, and the fuel it self, to cause the Needle Valve & Seat not to seal properly. The 25 micron filter will catch all this stuff before it enters the Carb. In addition, I pulled the tank, and totally cleaned it, Tank Shutoff Valve (and Screen), and line going to carb.

This is in consideration, that you have installed the rebuild kit and it is properly adjusted to Kohler specs.

Now this was my experience and what I did to correct my leaking problem.