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Archive through July 19, 2016

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Jason-

The lift arm I was talking about is connected to the lift rockshaft. In the pic you posted it's the top connection/arm. I wish it was in the undercarriage...it would be a lot easier to fix. The lift arm is connected to the rockshaft with a bigger roll pin and I think this pin has broken.

Charlie-

I actually tried to install a lock out pin (unlocked) so I'd know where it was but it was just too tight. Also, having it installed but not locked would put the lock out pin right into the fan when lifted it appears so the manual might be a must for those with CRS. There isn't exactly a world of room between the hydraulic lift arm and the frame. I hope you plan to put that manual in with the rest if you haven't already.

.
 
Jason,
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No problem. BTW, I'm enjoying your enthusiasm for Cub Cadets.
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Jesse, if you go to the Parts Lookup page and look under the Cub Cadet, Garden tractor, model 149, and then Attachments, the 59M info comes up and you can search it by year of manufacturer. Here's the details:

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Above is for 59M units built in 73 and 74, below is for 59M units built 74 to 77.

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Thank you Kraig, the M59 didn't come up under attachments under 1450 or 127. Is there anything I should check over good before use it? The bearing are tight and I don't see any cracks around them.
 
Jesse, I'm not sure if there are any specific points to check, I've never owned one. You'll probably be OK if you give it a good looking over. Hopefully someone that has one will chime in.
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There's only one prerequisite to owning a 59M!
YOU HAVE TO WEAR SANDALS!
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Well Charlie, at least he doesn't have socks on.
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Poor Art! Sometimes I regret taking that photo...
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(EDIT: Now that I think about it, that is actually a screen capture from a video I took.)
 

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I will have get a pair then, since it is a prerequisite.
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Jeremiah - thanks for the info on the M18. I didn't know there were spacers and I'll advise my son as such. Also, thanks for the comment about "cite differences down to the tiniest details". It gives me a perfect opening to provide Jason some tiny details.

Charlie - couple things. Do you have one of those Install Instruction sheets for the 169? It's not listed on the cover of yours
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Also - those instructions sheets should have a big ole warning label on the cover stating something like
"WARNING - Installation of this Pin can result in Severe Damage to the Tractor".
Maybe Wayne's 149 has one of these installed and it's why the lift arm roll pin is broke/bent. If you can't float the deck and run into something - well, something has to give doesn't it.

Jason - well, it sounds as tho you're looking for some minute details so I figured I'd let you know something that some of the Correct Police don't even know.

When you have a chance have a look at the underneath side of your brake pedal. I mean that piece of flat metal where the rubber pad is mounted. You'll probably be able to see the rubber pad has an cut out area about 1/4" wide, where the rubber goes against the angled bar the flat metal piece. If you can't see it while you're rubber pad is installed then walk on over to your 1250 and carefully remove the rubber pad from the brake pedal. You'll have to kinda roll it over the edge being careful not to crack the rubber. Once off you can see the slot cut in the rubber from the underneath side.

Well, I was thinking this rubber foot pad was first introduced on the 123 but I see now the 123 still came with the twisted metal bar for the foot brake pedal. So the rubber foot pad must have been introduced on the 1x4/5 series.

Now here's the tiniest tidbit info - the very first IH rubber brake pedal pad did not have the slot cutout. Because of the way the flat metal piece was attached/welded to the right angle metal brake pedal arm the rubber pad didn't really require the cutout slot.

I believe the cutout wasn't necessary until IH introduced the 1x6/7 series and slightly changed the way the flat metal was welded to the right angle metal brake pedal arm. Flat metal piece ended up right against the metal arm and unless you had a cutout in the rubber pad you couldn't get it to fit flat on the metal.

How do I know all this? Well, it's just something you discover over time while restoring the various models. Why else would you remove a rubber brake pedal pad and notice one had a cutout slot and the other didn't?

So, long story short - although I don't profess to being a member of the Correct Police, when I'm looking at a supposedly restored tractor I do have a little look underneath the brake pedal.
(FootNote** - I could be off by one model series in my info. It's been awhile since I've checked this and verified).

And for those of you that go out an look at your rubber pads, and even remove one to see the cut out - well if you tear the rubber I believe Charlie has new rubber pads available, or he can get'm.
 

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