Archive through July 19, 2010

[kmcconaughey]

Hydro aka "Elder" Harry, looks like you dropped the Elder sometime in December 1998 or January 1999. Your last post in 1998 was on December 1st, first one I find in 1999 was on January 19th. However I find no post between December 4th 1998 when Bryan posted this:

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By Bryan D. McMeen - C.C. 1450 in Barrington, IL (Bmcmeen) on Friday, December 4, 1998 - 08:27 am:

Just a quick message to check the archiving...

Sorry.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

and this post:

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By Terry Schmitz (Tschmitz) on Monday, December 28, 1998 - 11:30 am:

FYI, Found two more sources for pin punches:
Pivot Point, Hustisford,Wi. 800-222-2231
1/4" Stock #HIT-250 $11.76 Ea. (punch)
They also carry coiled spring pins (like OEM)
Stock #SPR-277 $15.15/100 1/4 x 1 1/2
These are 1996 prices
McMaster-Carr, Cleveland,O 330-995-5500
1/4" Stock #3421A41 $6.86 Ea. (punch)
They also carry H.D. coiled spring pins (OEM)
in several diameters & lengths. (example)
Stock #95755A419 $9.03/25 1/4 X 1 1/2.
No minimum order with either company. Sounds like a lot of roll pins, but several guys could go together on an order. Hope this helps on the pin situation. For more info just E-Mail me.
See You Later
Terry Schmitz<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

The next post is this one:

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By Harry Bursell, runs 1450 in CT (Hbursell) on Tuesday, January 19, 1999 - 10:51 am:

Paul, Bryan and others - I'm not a mechanic other than the "Shade Tree" type and anointed title on here, and I've never tried the refrigeration technique, but sounds good to me, especially if you're using 12oz tools. I wonder if Bob has a custom refrigerated 12oz tool holder.

Bryan - glad to see you made it back. Somehow I knew you wouldn't stay away from the snow for long. Have you used a tape yet to measure the throw of the QA42A. Maybe you got the modified Mountain version, made for the powder stuff at higher altitudes. Any luck on the Tach and rpm check yet?

Rick - I'm in agreement with ya on sticking with original design parts/repair.

Harry<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Hmmm, then I find this tag:

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By Harry Bursell, AKA Elder Harry, Keeper of the Great IH Bolts, runs 1450 in Woodbury, CT. (Hbursell) on Friday, February 12, 1999 - 07:26 pm:<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Then this:

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By Harry Bursell, runs 1450-Quiet Line in C (Hbursell) on Friday, February 26, 1999 - 02:56 pm:<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Looks like you're refining it:

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By Harry Bursell, runs 1450 in CT (Hbursell) on Tuesday, March 2, 1999 - 03:47 pm:<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

I've not yet found the first instance of "Hydro" Harry. I'll have to look some more tomorrow.

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[dross]

Jimmy, before you take that carb off, take out the main jet needle valve. Understand, it's job is to move fuel up to the ventury (sp). It takes a little destarity but hold that needle in one hand and cover all but one of the (lower) small holes with fingers when you blow though it with the little tube that comes with the carb cleaner, it should exit out the higher (bigger) holes. If thats working okay- Take the bowl off, gently push the float up till it stops, wait a second and take off the pressure, do it several times, your looking for the float to stick (needle and seat closed) if it doesn't pull that elbow off and check it for garbage. Having the carb bolted to the engine is a pretty safe way to hold it, that elbow can be a bear to get off. Make sure you look in both ends of that elbow and blow through it. Taking the elbow off opens up a view to the inlet of the needle and seat. If you have'nt came across anything obvious by now take the carb off. Take the main jet needle out and from the bottom reach up in the center with a thin, flat tipped, screw driver and unscrew the main jet. This is your last chance to find junk. With the jet out stick that screw driver up in there and gently scrape up the interior wall, pull it out and look at the tip, it may have sludge or rust or junk or whatever. If you don't find anything there or any problems in any of the places I've mentioned it's not a carb problem. Turning the engine by hand just said the engine turns free. It was an easy thing to check, didn't take any time, now we (I) know.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Donald T. Sure can. Just like you said with unbolt the front of a non ported and bolt on the front of a ported to each other. That won't take long at all.

 

[dtanner]

Marlin Homrighausen

Thanks for that info I had an idea that the pumps (ported and non ported) would be the same pieces just drilled for the ported.This will save some money on shipping weight for my 129 power steering up grade.


Kraig

Peter Knowles still lives in Riverport N.S and I have met him. He must still read here because he showed up at my door here one sunday morning to see if I could get him some parts for his tractor. I sold him some parts and still see him around. He sent another Cub guy here a few weeks ago and he wanted a rag joint which I had an extra. He now has an order in at CCS for a pto and hym joints for his 125.I will have to travel the 45 miles and rebuild his pto for him when the parts come. There is also a 1450 real close to here that stopped working and I offered to buy.I gave the guy a few pointers as to how to get the 1450 running again , but I see it has not moved for two years. He did call and wants me to (*drop in some time).I know he wants to sell me the 1450, but I have 11 tractors now and the wife would have a fit.The 1450 was in great shape last I saw it. I also know where there is a 122,123,125 that the guy don`t seem to do much with anymore. Only one has run much with the snow blower. It was overheating and I got that sorted out with his(Pat O)I have found that there are 15 or so Cubs here around owned by other people that I have found. I have four of them that use me to keep them running and getting parts. There is one guy here that the next time he shows up I will break down and sell him my 1962 O. I gave it to him to use one weekend and after that day he keeps dropping in wanting to buy it.I do tease him buy letting him run it around here a bit. lol


Thanks guys for all your help in the past. I know I have the fever and love my Tractors

 

[asill]

Ok, Ive rebuilt the carb, replaced the air/fuel filters, cleaned the gas tank, replaced the fuel shutoff valve, and even replaced the original hour meter with a new digital one on my 1980 782. (Thanks Matt G for the article and photos on your site regarding carb rebuild). Hopefully that'll take care of the hard-starting, smoking, stalling, and fuel-dripping from the float bowl problems I first asked about several weeks ago. Before I try to start it Im going to change the oil. The manual has a recommendation, but Im curious what you guys think the best oil to use is. As always, thanks for the input--Im learning a lot.

Allen

 

[kide]

Ahhhhhh!!!!!! Run for the hills!! an Oil Debate!!!

Allen - I use Shell white jug Rotella 30 wt..

 

[thoffman]

My sister in law sent me these pix. I think it was in the Wisconsin area Baraboo maybe?? Note the three point on the trailering CC, gives a whole new meaning to the Sulkey Plow.

 

[thoffman]

Arrrrr.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tom, send 'em to me. I'll resize and post them.

BTW forum members I do believe that Tom H. is the longest duration forum member. I'll have to dig out his first post.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tom, here's your first post that I have record of. Please note that posts #11 through 31 are missing. Probably due to a crash of the old forum. As you likely recall, crashes were a frequent occurrence with the old Voyager forum.

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Tom Hoffman - 09:24am Mar 11, 1998 EST (#32 of 799)
I a have the parts # for the hood side decals. They are from Cub Cadet 2750813R1. The dash decal is #2750805R3. I'm told that the old Cub Cadet white is now CASE/IH # 935, and the old yellow is CASE/IH Federal yellow. LATER TOM<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[jbaker]

Marlin I had the same question Don did so if I Understand correctly just unbolt the front replace cork gasket reinstall ported front and then I am good to go? I want to put a hydro lift from a 149 on my 129.

 

[mgonitzke]

Jeff-

Just get a whole ported pump. You don't need to take 2 apart and combine them like Don is trying to. Remove the non-ported hydro unit and put a ported unit in its place, and then add the cylinder, valve, lines, etc.

 

[jbaker]

Matt I was going to do that but the trunion on the 149 is worn bad and the one on 129 isnt.

I am nervouse about replacing/repairing the worn trunion arm

 

[dfrisk]

MATT. MARLIN, JEFF - Don T's situation is a bit different than We have here in the US, He has to pay an import tax on parts shipped from the US and getting the whole hydro unit would be much more expensive for Him because of that tax or duty. Just paying on the pump casting itself would save him a lot of $$$$. This tax/duty is on top of any differences in exchange rates.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Denny, Jeff, I think it's more the shipping costs on a whole pump vs just the ported section.

 

[lhutchison]

Danco RD1000 loader manaul--- does anyone have a manual or could they post a link??

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[dfrisk]

KRAIG - Ohhhh That's right...NAFTA... I keep forgetting. It's the SHIPPING cost that's higher.

 

[ljones]

Did ih ever make any demonstrator models for dealers becaus some guy e-maild me saying he had a ih cub cadet demonstrator with a gold hood he said it came from a dealer I tried to e-mail him back for a pic but I get a delivery failer message every time

 

[kmcconaughey]

Leslie, I have scans of the RD1000 manual in jpg format. I could email them if you are interested. Total for the 12 files is about 1MB.