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Archive through July 19, 2010
- Thread starter kide
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mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Donald T. Please don't think of trying to convert a non ported pump to a ported by drilling the necessary holes. Every now and then I receive an e:mail asking what could possibly be wrong ...."all the holes were drilled the way they should be." What wasn't factored in the "innocent drilling" is this: possible pinhole porosity. When pumps like anything else made from castings are assembled and tested that porosity will show up on the air decay or test stand. The end result will be that you've now ruined a perfectly good non ported pump by trying to make it into a ported pump. AND it won't show up until you've assembled everything, installed the pump and then wonder why doesn't everything work? Remember what Dennis Frisk has stated about porosity being in any type of poured casting? I'm NOT saying that you will always ruin a non ported pump by trying to convert it. You just have to factor that into your decision.
Just my two cents worth of upfront knowledge.
Just my two cents worth of upfront knowledge.
Marlin Homrighausen
I guess my question was not clear as to what I need to know about these hydro pumps.I would like to install power steering on my 129 loader and hoped to split the hydro pump and bolt fast the front of a ported pump. I don`t know if this is possible and would love to know the difference in the ported and non ported(if any). If I could just replace the front ported section on my non ported pump on my 129 and bolt fast the ported front from another pump I could save a ton on shipping one over here.This is the main reason for me asking this question.Thanks Don T
I guess my question was not clear as to what I need to know about these hydro pumps.I would like to install power steering on my 129 loader and hoped to split the hydro pump and bolt fast the front of a ported pump. I don`t know if this is possible and would love to know the difference in the ported and non ported(if any). If I could just replace the front ported section on my non ported pump on my 129 and bolt fast the ported front from another pump I could save a ton on shipping one over here.This is the main reason for me asking this question.Thanks Don T
You are right Kraig, you can't beat them when they are free. I think the guy I got this from felt bad for me taking it. I was too excited to realize what lay ahead. I still wish I had the headlights and fenders though. Nick
I believe it was William that was looking to mount a QA-42 Blower on a 122. This may not help, but here is a pic of my 122 with a quick attach blade. The strap you see has a stud welded to the one end, through the front hole, and I through bolted the back hole. The straps came with the 122 (6-7 years ago) and I thought at the time maybe they were a factory pc. Honestly now I don't remember why I mounted it this way, but it works.
Any one know how to get a hold of Rich Patton? I had his e-mail address some where around here and managed to not be able to find it! I tried my hand at welding the dash pedestal on my 106 and, well, lets just say I am no welder, just good at melting things! I scrapped the hydro conversion idea on account of good common sense from you all! Saved me a bunch of work which I thank you for saving me from! Any how back to working on the 123 for now!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
I got a little bit more done on the 682 loader today. The new mounts for the uprights are welded, and the subframe now looks like this:
I put the rails on the tractor to check the fit. The 682 frame was not quite the same as the cyclops frame I'm using as a jig. I think the tolerances on these frames might be looser than I initially thought. Drilling the front mounting holes to 37/64" cured that problem, and I then cut slots in the rectangular tubing so I could slide it over the rails. I can't easily explain how annoying it is to cut slots in steel tubing without a milling machine...but it can be done. It just takes a lot longer with a drill press, die grinder, and assorted files. Tomorrow I might actually think about welding the subframe, but I think I'll get the tractor finished first. I now have all of the engine mounting pieces, so I just need to weld up a cradle and install the engine so I can test-drive the tractor to see what else I need to do before the loader goes on it.
I put the rails on the tractor to check the fit. The 682 frame was not quite the same as the cyclops frame I'm using as a jig. I think the tolerances on these frames might be looser than I initially thought. Drilling the front mounting holes to 37/64" cured that problem, and I then cut slots in the rectangular tubing so I could slide it over the rails. I can't easily explain how annoying it is to cut slots in steel tubing without a milling machine...but it can be done. It just takes a lot longer with a drill press, die grinder, and assorted files. Tomorrow I might actually think about welding the subframe, but I think I'll get the tractor finished first. I now have all of the engine mounting pieces, so I just need to weld up a cradle and install the engine so I can test-drive the tractor to see what else I need to do before the loader goes on it.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Matt:
Probably too late, but if you need to do more slotting, one of the small 3" die grinder based cutoff tools is the solution. They are pretty easy to guide and on .125 wall thickness tubing, not too bad on consumables. Too bad you aren't closer, I'd fire up the Hypertherm, grab a straight edge and burn 'em out for ya..
Probably too late, but if you need to do more slotting, one of the small 3" die grinder based cutoff tools is the solution. They are pretty easy to guide and on .125 wall thickness tubing, not too bad on consumables. Too bad you aren't closer, I'd fire up the Hypertherm, grab a straight edge and burn 'em out for ya..
Here is my 122 Tote I built for hauling people around at tractor shows. A simple project with scrap steel and an angle grinder. Everything is bolted on in case I decide to put the tractor back together someday. The seat is from a 60's IH Scout. The Kohler is now a Coleman. I may put another one together this summer and have a "train". This pic is from Red Power this year, with my 782 pulled up close behind it.
I'll re-size a few more pics and post more later.
I'll re-size a few more pics and post more later.
Hey Dave, Pulled my high speed needle out to make sure all six holes (not 4, I was mistaken) were clear. I can squirt carb cleaner in any of the holes and see fluid coming out the other holes. I drained a couple of qts.from the fuel tank, no water or debris evident. I turned the engine over by hand after it died with normal resistance until the compression stroke. I will dis-assemble the carb tomorrow.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Paul W - yes you're correct, it was Bill Rehm, but he's still trying to figure out how to attach a QA-42"A" thrower (not a QA42) to a 122 (or maybe 123). Your brackets are similar to what Bill may need to make but they have to bolt into the 2 rear holes (seen in your pics) and then have a bolt/pin to attach the upper bracket of the thrower. Why don't you send your brackets to Bill??? You don't need them (for real). Your blade "sub-frame" already attaches at the rear, on that cross member rod welded mid way across the tractor frame. After this connection you only need the 2nd connection at the front of the frame. Remove your bracket and just bolt the blade sub-frame to the front hole in the tractor frame. Those 2 connections are all you need (I think you'll find it in the blade attachment instructions if Kraig has them). Thanks for posting the pic. It's illustrates the bracket concept.
(Paul under edit - do you have an appropriate Parade Permit??? I don't see no lights on that 122, and there ain't no sireeen either).
Bill R - keep us up to date on figuring this out - there's just gotta be a way to do it without alot of complications/modifications.
Kraig Mc - oh Keeper of the Photos (and archives and other such details)- what's the oldest post you have for me??? In the Voyager Days BGC??? I was initially annointed Elder Harry, but didn't think it fit well, since it was my younger days and provided a misconception. After paying a small penance it was agreed to be changed (but you probably won't find that in the files). Reverend Necker was at his best work then. I actually got the opportunity to meet the her Revereness on my trip west back in 02. Never made it to the barber shop tho.
Jimmy L - I'm no expert on carbs or your problem, but I can tell you that high speed jet can be a real bear to get out. The Kohler 30 carb on my K341 was full of dirt, and jet was frozen. The Great Jim Chabot, Museum Currator Extrodinaire, used some torch heat on it and it broke loose. I thought the carb was going to melt into a diecast pile - but amazingly - it cleaned up, and I'm still using it today, some 10 or 11 years later (boy do I lose track of time - maybe Elder Harry actually fits better now). I'm figuring the holes in your jet are blocked or maybe even in the carb itself, but the jet more likely, and your starving fuel, as has been suggested. I may have missed it, but how soon can you re-start???? Just long enough for the bowl to re-fill????
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but they should do get re-connected).
(Paul under edit - do you have an appropriate Parade Permit??? I don't see no lights on that 122, and there ain't no sireeen either).
Bill R - keep us up to date on figuring this out - there's just gotta be a way to do it without alot of complications/modifications.
Kraig Mc - oh Keeper of the Photos (and archives and other such details)- what's the oldest post you have for me??? In the Voyager Days BGC??? I was initially annointed Elder Harry, but didn't think it fit well, since it was my younger days and provided a misconception. After paying a small penance it was agreed to be changed (but you probably won't find that in the files). Reverend Necker was at his best work then. I actually got the opportunity to meet the her Revereness on my trip west back in 02. Never made it to the barber shop tho.
Jimmy L - I'm no expert on carbs or your problem, but I can tell you that high speed jet can be a real bear to get out. The Kohler 30 carb on my K341 was full of dirt, and jet was frozen. The Great Jim Chabot, Museum Currator Extrodinaire, used some torch heat on it and it broke loose. I thought the carb was going to melt into a diecast pile - but amazingly - it cleaned up, and I'm still using it today, some 10 or 11 years later (boy do I lose track of time - maybe Elder Harry actually fits better now). I'm figuring the holes in your jet are blocked or maybe even in the carb itself, but the jet more likely, and your starving fuel, as has been suggested. I may have missed it, but how soon can you re-start???? Just long enough for the bowl to re-fill????
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but they should do get re-connected).
Thanks for the compliment Lucas, the 1050 that I have is CCC made. If you have the book Cub Cadet-the first 45 years, take a look at p. 71. They were built in 1989 only. I will have pics soon. It will be different from all the other 1050's. By the way, that 86 is a fun tractor, starts, runs, drives great. Since I am downsizing it may have to go. I also have a 125 being restored. It will have a 14hp Kohler. I suppose it will be a 145.
Matt Gonitzke
I had a look at your sub frame and have to ask .
Do you plan to have the 2x3 connected to the frame of the tractor ?
Is what I see all you plan on attaching on the rear end tubes?
Don`t you think you will have a flex issue connected to the rear tubes?
Just a thought as I see your not finished yet.
Hope to see more pictures soon .
I do hope someone can answer my hydro port question. Thanks Don T
I had a look at your sub frame and have to ask .
Do you plan to have the 2x3 connected to the frame of the tractor ?
Is what I see all you plan on attaching on the rear end tubes?
Don`t you think you will have a flex issue connected to the rear tubes?
Just a thought as I see your not finished yet.
Hope to see more pictures soon .
I do hope someone can answer my hydro port question. Thanks Don T
Harry - I see what you are saying reguarding the strap pcs on my 122. Bill needs the same strap on the inside of the frame on his rear set of holes, with the stud protruding from the front hole to catch the ears on the bracket. Although does'nt the rear set have a closer center to center spacing than the front? I look at my 122 now and ask what you thought - why did I not just install a bolt in the front hole and call it good?? I will have to pull one off this week and see if I can figure out why.
The straps look "factory". Anyone think that is possible?
The straps look "factory". Anyone think that is possible?
Hydro Harry, this is the earliest that I find. However for some reason posts 11 through 31, 41 through 50, 62 through 65, 68 through 80, 88 through 93, and random other posts are missing. I believe this is due to crashes that happened before I found the forum and started to archive it.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Harry Bursell - 11:29pm May 8, 1998 EST (#234 of 800)<BR>
Bob just got through all the posted messages. Didn't realize you were close to CT. What did you pick up in NH? If you get this in time and want to go a few hours out of your way I'm just off I-84 between Waterbury and Danbury CT. I've got a 124, 169 and 86 under my deck, all basket cases. Hope to get to them sometime. I use a 1450 all the time. I've restored a 122, 124, 126 and 129. Sold them after I finished each as they almost broke me to complete. Generally cost $400-500 for a decent machine but the parts can kill. Muffler at $20, tires at $40 or better, engine rebuild $300, thro-out bearing $26. By the time you're done its $1500 but what beautiful machines especially in the right colors. Although original paint in this area is $20 qt and $9 for a rattle can. Someone earlier mentioned prices half of these. Wish I new where that was. Also came across some NOS parts from a dealer that closed. Don't know what some of them are but many have IH part no.s. Also just finished going over an 1872 Super I'm trying to sell now. Has 740 hours and 60in deck. Wondered if anyone was familiar with this deck (model 190-374-100) as it is quite square cut and welded rather than the usual stamped steel type on most decks. What I wondered was if this was an old style IH original deck that MTD reused?? Weighs a ton. Thought it may have been originally from a Cub Low Boy or something else. The reason I ask is that when I bought new belts, the deck belt still uses and is marked with an IH part no. while the power take-off is marked CCC. Anyone know? Anyway Bob, e-mail me at [email protected], or call me at 203-266-9258 I'll be home Sat. and Sun. Anyone else can call if you like to chat about cubs, need a part.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Don T, this old post might interest you:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Peter Knowles - 10:36pm Mar 19, 1998 EST (#60 of 799)<BR>
Hi All, <BR>
It snowed here in Nova Scotia so I had a chance to get the 122 out and plow my very long drive, what a blast! I love going wide open so that the snow curls off the blade in a nice steady flow. <BR>
I'm looking for both the steering wheel and seat for my 122. My MTD dealer thinks they are NLA. Have I any other options? I suppose I could have the wheel rebuilt, is this costly? <BR>
Peter by-the-sea Knowles<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Harry Bursell - 11:29pm May 8, 1998 EST (#234 of 800)<BR>
Bob just got through all the posted messages. Didn't realize you were close to CT. What did you pick up in NH? If you get this in time and want to go a few hours out of your way I'm just off I-84 between Waterbury and Danbury CT. I've got a 124, 169 and 86 under my deck, all basket cases. Hope to get to them sometime. I use a 1450 all the time. I've restored a 122, 124, 126 and 129. Sold them after I finished each as they almost broke me to complete. Generally cost $400-500 for a decent machine but the parts can kill. Muffler at $20, tires at $40 or better, engine rebuild $300, thro-out bearing $26. By the time you're done its $1500 but what beautiful machines especially in the right colors. Although original paint in this area is $20 qt and $9 for a rattle can. Someone earlier mentioned prices half of these. Wish I new where that was. Also came across some NOS parts from a dealer that closed. Don't know what some of them are but many have IH part no.s. Also just finished going over an 1872 Super I'm trying to sell now. Has 740 hours and 60in deck. Wondered if anyone was familiar with this deck (model 190-374-100) as it is quite square cut and welded rather than the usual stamped steel type on most decks. What I wondered was if this was an old style IH original deck that MTD reused?? Weighs a ton. Thought it may have been originally from a Cub Low Boy or something else. The reason I ask is that when I bought new belts, the deck belt still uses and is marked with an IH part no. while the power take-off is marked CCC. Anyone know? Anyway Bob, e-mail me at [email protected], or call me at 203-266-9258 I'll be home Sat. and Sun. Anyone else can call if you like to chat about cubs, need a part.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Don T, this old post might interest you:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Peter Knowles - 10:36pm Mar 19, 1998 EST (#60 of 799)<BR>
Hi All, <BR>
It snowed here in Nova Scotia so I had a chance to get the 122 out and plow my very long drive, what a blast! I love going wide open so that the snow curls off the blade in a nice steady flow. <BR>
I'm looking for both the steering wheel and seat for my 122. My MTD dealer thinks they are NLA. Have I any other options? I suppose I could have the wheel rebuilt, is this costly? <BR>
Peter by-the-sea Knowles<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Don-
The subframe connects as you see it in the pictures, to the midsection of the frame and to the rear axles. The 2x3 tubing does not directly connect to the tractor frame in any way. This is more or less how the two factory Kwik-Way subframes I have seen have been designed. It shouldn't measurably flex the axle tubes, as the mounts to the midsection of the frame, as well as the braces to the front, will also react the loads placed on the machine when pushing, digging, etc. The bending load on the axle tube is placed as close to the tractor frame as was possible.
The subframe connects as you see it in the pictures, to the midsection of the frame and to the rear axles. The 2x3 tubing does not directly connect to the tractor frame in any way. This is more or less how the two factory Kwik-Way subframes I have seen have been designed. It shouldn't measurably flex the axle tubes, as the mounts to the midsection of the frame, as well as the braces to the front, will also react the loads placed on the machine when pushing, digging, etc. The bending load on the axle tube is placed as close to the tractor frame as was possible.
Hydro aka "Elder" Harry, this is the first instance of the "Elder" that I find.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Harry Bursell - 12:52am Oct 22, 1998 EST (#877 of 1112)
AKA Elder Harry “Mechanic on High”, runs 1450 in Woodbury, CT.
Bryan @872 - I finally got a look at your QA42A on the Symtec web page. Couple things I don’t understand. The top support bars that hold the unit straight appear to be curved in the photos. Mine are straight. Have you seen these straight before. If Ken isn’t gone yet can you or someone else on here tell us the reason these would be curved on some. Also, I’ve never seen the IH bolt head you have in the close up. Ones I have are just off the edge of the head of the bolts and in the usual IH logo format or style (I in the center of the H). (Ken is this last production style??) Bryan, can you post the complete serial no. of the thrower. Maybe that’s where the difference is. I think mine is QA42AU1111. I’ll have to look and post back<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Harry Bursell - 12:52am Oct 22, 1998 EST (#877 of 1112)
AKA Elder Harry “Mechanic on High”, runs 1450 in Woodbury, CT.
Bryan @872 - I finally got a look at your QA42A on the Symtec web page. Couple things I don’t understand. The top support bars that hold the unit straight appear to be curved in the photos. Mine are straight. Have you seen these straight before. If Ken isn’t gone yet can you or someone else on here tell us the reason these would be curved on some. Also, I’ve never seen the IH bolt head you have in the close up. Ones I have are just off the edge of the head of the bolts and in the usual IH logo format or style (I in the center of the H). (Ken is this last production style??) Bryan, can you post the complete serial no. of the thrower. Maybe that’s where the difference is. I think mine is QA42AU1111. I’ll have to look and post back<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Kraig - thanks for finding that old post - no. 234 of 800 - that was real close to my start. Dang. And I remember the Reverend Necker had come all the way from Montana to NH to get an Original. They were nearly unheard of and thought to have all gone to a resting place. Still can't believe so many show up now.
(Kraig under edit - now you've gone and done it - you really do bring out the best. I have no recollection of the "Mechanic on High", must have been using to many tools. Do you have the pic of me in the white hat and the black hat, using some 12oz tools??? And I forgot all about those curved upper brackets on the QA42A throwers. Don't think IH even changed the model number, just the upper brackets).
Paul W - the original sub-frame for a blade used with a 122 used what were called "frame extenders". I wrote a while back about the 1st time I bought them - not knowing what they were or what they looked like. I can't tell from your pic it that's what your brackets are. Maybe Kraig has a pic of an older blade sub-frame, I think they were also used on the 70/100.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (especially when ole W. The Best keeps swapping digits)
(Kraig under edit - now you've gone and done it - you really do bring out the best. I have no recollection of the "Mechanic on High", must have been using to many tools. Do you have the pic of me in the white hat and the black hat, using some 12oz tools??? And I forgot all about those curved upper brackets on the QA42A throwers. Don't think IH even changed the model number, just the upper brackets).
Paul W - the original sub-frame for a blade used with a 122 used what were called "frame extenders". I wrote a while back about the 1st time I bought them - not knowing what they were or what they looked like. I can't tell from your pic it that's what your brackets are. Maybe Kraig has a pic of an older blade sub-frame, I think they were also used on the 70/100.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (especially when ole W. The Best keeps swapping digits)
