Archive through July 18, 2010

[mgonitzke]

Jimmy-

I'm thinking either a partially plugged bowl vent or incorrect float level. Here is the correct float level:

 

[kmcconaughey]

Gerry, this is the earliest post by you that I can find. My archives of the "new" forum start with a November 20, 1998 post by Ranger Buck. My Voyager archives end with a November 15, 1998 post by Hydro Harry.

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By K G Ide on Thursday, April 15, 1999 - 11:27 pm:

Great forum (yeb- a newbie..)
After living with my 129 since '85 (I bought it from the original owner for what he was offered on trade in for an MTD built Ford), I didn't think there was much new to learn, but I've already picked up some hints. Question for the experts: I have fought wear button problems on the PTO clutch for a few years (it may coincide with the Kohler's replacement) I rebuilt the clutch, used new springs, set the bearing depth according to the manual and just recently replaced the bearings (yeah, I was too cheap to do it when I did the engine replacement) My dealer says that without a belt on the sheave,I should be able to disengage the PTO clutch and the driven part will stop. Is this true? I did check for warped plates and I can stop it spinning by dragging a piece of wood in the pulley..<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[kmcconaughey]

Cletus, to add to what Paul wrote about the steering column. Here's an old photo from the factory showing the Original being assembled. The steering column was bolted to the frame with the angle bracket.

 

[ljones]

My angel brakket the holds the sterring colem on my o is bent but it is nla

 

[kmcconaughey]

Marco, the Original hood decal was actually a silk screen. It's placement varied slightly. Here are some photos from the brochure to help you decide where it belongs.

On my Original I decided to place the decals slightly to the rear as I have the optional headlights mounted and I think they partly obscure the view of the decal if the decal is placed as in the old brochures.

 

[mgonitzke]

Lucas-

That's pretty minor...just straighten it.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Cletus, Lucas, here's what the Original steering column mounting bracket looks like. Lucas, place a want add in the classifieds... or straighten it like Matt suggested.

 

[ljones]

Kraig what is up with the 2 eylit bolts on th front of your cub o ?

Matt,Kraig that is where it gets complicated my sterring colem slants to the right to the point the actuator arm hits the clutch but Im not shure if the angel brakett is bent or the frame ?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Lucas, most likely it's both the frame and the bracket that are bent. Only way to know for sure would be to remove the steering wheel and then remove the pedestal/dash and have a look. Once you have determined where it is bent, remove the steering column from the bracket then bolt a piece of bar stock or angle stock to the bracket as a lever and bend it back. It might take a few tried to get it back to where it belongs but it should be doable. Whatever you do, DON'T use the steering column as a lever. Resist the temptation to take the "easy way" as it will likely cause you more work in the long run.

As to the eye bolts:

 

[ljones]

Kraig, that is a good ideal could you use it to pull the tractor out if it was stuck ?

 

[cnimmo]

Thanks Paul and everyone else for the help.After i done a little looking on the internet i thought they were wrong. I spent all day Saturday painting up my first Original. And bought the second one Sunday and that's when i seen that the column's were not fastened the same way . So now i have a fresh painted dash tower with two holes in it. Guess it's time to do some patching

 

[kmcconaughey]

Lucas, I suppose they could be used for towing. I can't take credit for the idea. Tom Peters is the one that deserves credit for them.

 

[dross]

Jimmy, The wear in the throttle shaft will cause hunting at idle but disappears as the RPM's increase. Your right, it screams fuel starvation. Part of the reason I suggested to let your fuel run into a clear container is to ensure the flow was uninterupted, Make sure you leave the gas cap on when you do it. The other reason was to see whats in your gas, I can think of one instance where a members own gas can became contaminated with water. Make sure the carb has clean, uninteruped fuel available then we can look at your carb.

 

[dfrisk]

KRAIG & ALL - IH really never had "SPEC's" for decal placment. As a former Engineering Manager I worked with after working for IHC commented, "They were more Guidelines as opposed to rules!".
Friday afternoon SON & I removed all the paint from the CC 70's hood getting it ready for new paint & decals. The factory decals were in different locations by as much as a quarter inch! front-to-back and 1/8th inch in heighth.

 

[dfrisk]

DAVE - Sounds like you've been "Surprised" by some of the things you've pulled from the bottoms of 40+ yr old gas tanks like I have! ;-)

 

[jelong]

Matt,
I have played with setting of the float level to see if I could influence the proble to no avail. I have the float set a 11/64". What about the play in the throttle shaft? How much before you start to have a problem? Ideas?

 

[dross]

Dennis

Jimmy, A bad bushing in the throttle shaft will make the engine hunt at idle but the problem dimishes as the PRM's increase. At worst it can make idle adjustment just about imposilbe.

 

[jelong]

Dave and Dennis,
I am not experiencing hunting problems and the carb reponds to adjustment at low and high speed. I have checked the fuel flow by running the fuel into a clear container. Good flow and no water or debris. I will check again tonight. The curious thing is I have run the engine on an auxiliary tank bypassing my tank fuel line etc. with same problem. With that results, it has to be in the carb itself which I have been into 4 times. Does anyone have a good pic of the Kohler built adjustable jet carb other than the one seen on 6-7 of the service manual?? That exploded view does not depict the removable nozzle for the main needle pn 235415. Per Kohler it(nozzle)is no longer available. Thanks so much for the input

 

[dtanner]

Matt G

thanks for your input. I would not hesitate to take a pump apart again.I did not find it as big a deal as some here think.I replaced the splined shaft to the pin type so I could use my modded drive shaft.The pump works great and my drive shaft has not given me any grief.Thanks to Jim Diederichs for his input.

 

[kide]

Kraig:
And I was wrong about who built Fords, too (IIRC - Jacobsen??)..and I still have problems with that PTO if there's no belt on it..but I also put a bypass switch (only to be activated by adults!!) on the dash that allows me to leave the PTO engaged, but still start it. That switch gets turned on in the spring when the QA42A comes off, and off in the fall). I know it's the plate dragging, but the rebuild was with all new parts and after about the fourth adjustment, I just bagged it...
Dennis:
A simple relay, wired to shunt the resistor when energized, hooked to the "start" terminal on the ignition..