Archive through July 17, 2015

[pbell]

Marty G,
I don't remember if the 100 that belonged to Bryan McMeen had a replacement engine or not, but I can tell you that a cross mount muffler was offered as an over the counter parts package for the 100 (muffler, heat shield, exhaust elbow, ect). I can't tell you when it became available, but it was sometime after the cross mount was used on the later models (1x2/3 and later)narrow frames. It is shown in the TC-113 parts manual (at least in Revision 26 issued 6-91) that covered all Cub Cadets S/N 400,000 and below.

 

[mgwin]

Paul,

I knew the 1x2/3 series had the cross mount, but not the 70/100 series. I assumed the cross mount muffler was used when IH added the 12HP models to the line.
All of the 70/100 pics that I have seen had the round muffler on them.
Would be interesting to know what date they started offering the cross muffler.

 

[elamott]

A 129 engine question
I am just finishing my 129 and have installed new rings and valves. Everything else was OK. My question this. I don't have the head on yet and when I hand turn the engine I have some resistance which I should. I also can hear the rings scraping the walls which I assume is because of the new rings and they all have new sharp edges. Can someone tell me that this is normal. I have done this before but I have forgotten the little things.
Thank for any comments
Earl

 

[kide]

Earl... did you check ring end gap in the cylinder? Assuming assembly was correct, you will feel some scraping, make sure the cylinder wall is well lubricated!

 

[gbailey]

Kraig,
Do you have a picture of the neutral safety switch and what activates it on a IH cub cadet 1000?
Thanks,
Gary

 

[jbennett]

Does someone happen to know what size bearings are used on the 38 inch timed deck? I bought a new deck.

 

[digger]

John B.
Click the Parts Look Up button above.

 

[danderson]

Judged some 4H projects for the county fair today. Woodworking and small engine repair. One older kid as part of his project rebuilt a K341. Had picture of the tear down and had a pic of balance gears. I asked him if he knew what they where and he did. Asked if he put them back in. He did. Asked if he put new ones in or if he replaced the bearings. He put the old ones back in. Told him to do some research on removing them. I'd hate to see his hard work go to waste. Had it mounted on a stand with a battery an fuel tank. Started it up and it ran good. Judged 11 different projects. Good day.

 

[digger]

Doug A.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Gary, sorry for the delayed response, I didn't have a chance to power up my PC over the weekend. The 1000 uses the same spring clip as the 1250, 1450 and so on. I could not find a photo of a 1000 but I did find a detail photo of the safety switch spring clip on a 1450. Note it is not a neutral switch but rather a clutch/brake activated safety switch. It is mounted on the clutch/brake rockshaft.

Also here's the exploded view of the 1000 from the Parts Lookup.

And a drawing from a Service Manual of the gear drive setup.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Doug A., I agree with Charlie.

While I was looking for the safety switch photos for Gary, I came across this photo of a PO workaround for a broken or missing spring clip. I suppose it's one way to do it and it is better than jumping the wires.

 

[tsabick]

Update on Drive Pin Discussion - After installing solid dowel pin I mowed for 7 minutes before the pin was thrown. Put the pin back in and used the hose clamp retainer technique; it lasted 30 minutes. Attached is the forensic photo.

I next tried the longer screw, stack of washers approach and so far have another 90 minutes of mowing without an issue.
Is solution that places a flexible coupling on both ends of the drive shaft a DIY solution or a commercially available one? Thanks, Tom

 

[digger]

All these drive pin issues makes me wonder why no one thinks of checking the 40+ year old drive shaft hole that said dowel pin that supposed to fit in, TIGHT!

 

[stanner]

Even the proper drive pin needs a hub that ain't wallered out.... I just got sick of monkey farting with it, and I found a red tractor shaft to replace it...

 

[gbailey]

Kraig,
Thanks for the safety switch photos. Those are very good pictures.

Thanks again,
Gary

 

[cfischer]

Guys, just put a slightly used magnet on my 782 PTO clutch, it seems to work ok, however after a few minutes of mowing the clutch starts smoking really bad. I used a feeler gauge to set the spacing to .25 Where did I go wrong, when it cools off, what should I do to repair it?

 

[fcurrier]

.25 sounds like an awfully wide spacing.

 

[elamott]

129 Engine problems
I am still having problems with my k301. The only thing that I have not done is change the points. Currently I have a Point Slayer electronic ignition module which is about 5 years old, so I am going to remove that and put in my old set of points. When I had them in before I had to reduce the point gap to about 5 thousands to get the timing close. I am assuming that this is because the rod that opens the points is worn. Does anyone know what the rod length should be.
Thanks for any comments
Earl

 

[fcurrier]

By Jim Diederichs (Jdiederichs) on Friday, June 13, 2008 - 09:49 am:

Charlie,
The points push rods length is as follows:
41 411 01 {1.265"} For K161 and 181
41 411 04 {1,551"} For K241 and up

 

[digger]

Frank C.
Clark asked about the K161 20 days ago.
And your just now responding?
And your points rod point is?