Archive through July 16, 2012

[dross]

Matt, Tourque it to spec with a regular nut, count the threads and set the lock nut to that thread count.

 

[mgwin]

Clark,

Heat the steering wheel center hub in one spot and then raise up on the wheel with your knees/legs and at the same time hit the slightly loosened nut/remover tool with a hammer. If that don't work, heat the entire center hub. Just be careful (don't tear anything up) with the heat and the hammer. It may take a few licks.

 

[dclinansmith]

Luther H, I put another coil on today, it is an old one from my truck. I finally got my old analog meter going. In round numbers I had about 14V on the + side of the coil and about 9V on the - side with it running. I have no idea if thats good or not, I've never checked a coil that way. It started and ran good for almost an hour then quit like you switched it off. I still had 9V showing on the - side when it died. It didn't want to restart so I gave up, we had a severe storm coming so it was time to get in the house. I didn't know that a digital meter will short out the coil from the - side, so I have learned something with this mess. My inline spark tester came in today so maybe it will tell me something tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

 

[bwittman]

Harry,

I am going to pick up some 2 1/2" bolts from Caterpillar to be sure that I have some options to try when I am able to get back to the project. I really don't know what is the original size bolt. I am guessing 2 1/4", just because that is what came out. I never really noticed how tight the lock nuts were that came off the old mounts. All I know is that the old mounts were shot completely. I felt that the replacement Cub Cadet mounts were the best, rather than using aftermarket mounts because things didn't really add up in my mind concerning the aftermarket variety. I'll change bolt lengths and let you know.

Jeremiah,

Trust me, I am no mechanic. I had the privilege of having a father who was a real craftsman when it came to repairing things. Mechanics would call him for advice. While working highway and heavy construction many years ago, I had the privilege of working with a mechanic who was not stumpable. I kept my eyes open and mouth shut and learned a lot from him. Still, I am no mechanic. I know how to sing in a choir. All I did was bought good tools and never loaned them out.

Matt,

I think Harry is correct. I am using full sets of OEM replacement ISO mounts, not the hybrid parts that are discussed in Charlie's FAQ article. I am not bashing the article here; that is not my intent. I am only going by my instinct and the instructions in the parts package. The instructions and the look are not adding up. I am just trying to do this project correctly. I only have little time to spend with it and I don't have time to do it over.

 

[hydroharry]

Matt - unfortunately the FAQ doesn't specify the correct length of the original bolts and Brian doesn't know if he has any original bolts or original ISO-mounts, so other than the FAQ and our input he is testing the waters, at least in my view. I don't think there has been a real agreed upon concensus of what is actually the best thing to do - it's more of a try it you'll like it, and if you don't, well then adjust it a little. I much prefer, do it this way and it works. And I think this is the only QL that Brian has, maybe his only CC unit so he is certainly trying really hard and depending on our input. I'm encouraging him to keep up his effort and assuring him he will enjoy it when he is done.

Brian - (under edit) you were posting at the same time as me. I wish I knew the length of the original bolts. Since you're going to have 3 lengths now I would recommend going with the ones that allow you to show 2 or 3 threads past the nut and not overly squish the ISO-mounts.
Any chance you can get us some pics?

 

[pbell]

Harry
The parts manual list the bolts (calls them screws) as 3/8-16 X 2-1/4"

 

[digger]

Ya know all this and that about bolt length is a really easy thing to figure out!
It's called the Parts look up button at the top of every page.

 

[hydroharry]

Charlie and Paul - thanks for the input about the Parts look up, but honestly I was hesistant in referring to what's in the parts book since CCC had changed the ISO-mounts. I did pull out my TC-157 paper copy dtd 1992 when the original ISO-mounts were still available, and can confirm the bolts are still specified the same -
3/8 x 2 1/4.

Brian - you used these before so I recommend going with them again and only tightening the nut so 2 to 3 threads show thru it. I have to think any longer bolt and you risk the engine hitting the ends of the bolts. Good luck with it and let us know how you make out.

 

[dfrisk]

Actually, torquing a torque retention bolt/nut is O-K. There's SO many variables involved in properly torquing fasteners that adding one more, the torque retention nut doesn't matter much. Here's a good over-view of torquing fasteners, http://arp-bolts.com/pages/technical_installation.shtml

I have never owned a Q/L, and probably never will, but depending on what type of torque retention nut is used would make a BIG difference IMO. A nylon insert nut would not be the proper style, the nylon softens when it gets warm or hot, and loosening can result. And they are only supposed to be used I think it's three times, then the nylon takes a set and they loose effectiveness. A stove lock nut would be a more positive fastener, and same as a nylock nut, three times and it's lost most of it's torque retention qualities. With a simple Google here's the same question asked on another forum with the answers. Since IH & MTD knows that torque retention nuts are being used, the spec. probably includes the prevailing torque required before the nut starts tightening the iso-mounts.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/does-the-use-of-stover-type-lock-nuts-change-torque-requirements-143391.html

 

[bjamison]

Hydro Harry - I don't know nothin' about nothin', but here is a pic of an ISO mount bolt that came out of my 14hp 1650 that is still in pieces...

The bolt is definately 3/8 x 2-1/4....

 

[bjamison]

Quick PTO clutch question. Do you have to remove the clutch from the engine to re-set the adjustments with the PTO tool? This is for a 109

 

[digger]

Yes,
You have to loosen the nuts on the back of the PTO to adjust the tension.
It should have double nuts on each bolt, if it doesn't change them out so you do.

Under Edit,
If your going to take it off to adjust it, My suggestion would be to take it apart and scuff up the disc surfaces, just to make sure everything is true and up to snuff.

If it's been slipping, you might have ripples or hard spots. Just a thought.

 

[sbauer]

Does anyone know where i can find a stator for a 982 Cub. Whent to the local dealer and they said it is no longer avaiable. Thanks for any help.

 

[bjamison]

OK - I got an allen wrench to the set screws holding the PTO clutch to the crankshaft, but they are very tight. Any tips for getting them loose without destroying something? Not sure I want to shoot any PB blaster into a clutch assembly and I'm not sure I can get heat to it.

Any tips would be appreciated.

 

[digger]

Bill J.
A little PB Blaster won't hurt a thing.
Also, make sure that you allen wrench has good sharp edges. It's actually easier if you have a T handle style.
If the sides of the wrench are a little rounded.
Take it to the grinder and do a touch up on the end.
There will be a little material left around it, leave it on there just in case the set screws are wollered out, that will take up the slack and make for a better fit.

Just make sure you use anti-seize when you put them back in.

 

[wshytle]

Bill-

I had the same problem a couple of weeks ago. The allen screws didn't want to let go at all. I had already soaked them for days with PB so I resorted to heat and used a propane torch. It sounds bad but the pto gets very hot anyway when in use. I concentrated the heat to one spot right by each screw and they all eventually came out. It doesn't have to turn red either. Take your time and try not to wallow out any of the screws. I also used PB while heating so it could get on down in the threads. It is flamable so use care.

Charlies advice is good (of course) about cleaning up the wrench at the grinder and also using the anti-seize. I don't think I own any allen wrenches that haven't been "sharpened".

 

[dross]

Bill, I had luck with useing a torch to heat up the clutch housing then take a can of air for your computer, turn it upside down (the propellent is very cold) use the tube and shoot it directly on the set screw, imediately try to remove the set screw. This worked for me when nothing else did.

 

[aschumacher]

Bill, Daves idea sounds neat with the upside down air. But use caution, blowback can get in your eyes and fingers and frost your skin. Eye protection strongly suggested.

 

[mmasheris]

Steve Bauer check Onanparts.com
They have new and used parts for Onans.

 

[jsalatino]

PB BLASTER is the best in my oppinion! lol I make sure I have plenty of it at all times. The day I got cc100 home I started hittin the nuts & bolts with it once a day for a week or so. Not much, just a shot to let it start workin and doin its thing. Except for the steering wheel , that was a different story,actually that was the first thing I went to once I got the cap off. I sprayed that 3 or 4 times a day for probably a month b4 i even tried gettin it off. what a pita that was to get off. But eventually with a can a pb,lil heat,angle iron&a 2jaw puller it came off.threads & splines were perfect . guess I got lucky on that one,,