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Archive through July 15, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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I have always gotten in the habit of parking them somewhere level. Having been around hydro's my entire life..... I was used to them getting "bored" and wandering off. I try to not get off one while it is running, and if I do I make sure it is at idle and I am not more than a step away..... a hydro tractor does not need a driver to go for a ride.... don't ask how I know this.....
 
Rob,
I took the picture of the black Brinly sleeve hitch adapter several years ago, it is one of the last 8 Brinly had in stock (I bought them all), and I added the "white box" info on the line drawing, which was done by someone in North Carolina if I remember correctly, Mark something (CRS is part of getting old). The size and shape of that adapter changed a little in the area of the sleeve pin and the welded nuts for the stabilizer bolts. Look at the pictures a little closer, the inside width measures 9-5/8" on that one, 9-1/4" on an earlier version I have in the shed. The X length is 10-3/4". The tape and straight edge are laying on the wood deck of my trailer and you have to take the measurements of the adapter from the part of the adapter that is in contact with the wood also. The measurements do not have to be that precise and can be "tweeked" a bit to fit you application. There were some slight variations in in width of the batch of 8 that I bought. No I don't have any of them left.
 
Gerry - I was speaking of while in use !
When I mow the beginning of the ditch at the driveway culvert I go down a little spot that both tractors speed up when going down, like a 1 foot drop in elevation. I never did that with the 127 but of course I have the foot pedal to counter act with.
 
Dave Ross, Did you throw that 107 on and take it home? Every CC needs a good home with people that understand it.
 
Paul, do you mean Mark "CubCadetFinder" Huffman aka Mark the Cub Cadet Finder/Looker, aka CubSouth? He was from Gray Court, SC.

Earl, when I changed the needle bearings on my QA42 I bought them from Cub Cadet but they might be a standard bearing. They were easy enough to remove and replace with a same size socket (I forget the size but it's easy to figure out) and a C-Clamp.
 
Have any of you guys done this "upgrade"??? LINK
Youtube "How to make your Old Cub Cadet steer sharper, Cub Cadet 122"

Moderator edit: Tom I fixed your link.
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Meleody, nope they wouldn't sell it, thier going to keep it, fix it and use it to mow around the place.
I have to go out and look tonight, I know I have a 129 with a ported hydro and no hydraulics but I've never looked to see if the numbers match.
 
Tom:
Just my own opinion, but I don't think I'd grind part of the I-Beam web away on a cast iron axle.. Kind of like the mule drive grooves in the axles that we've seen in the past..
 
You guys NEVER heard him say anything about grinding the axle...

or maybe you did ... I'd have a doc check those little voices in your head ...
 
After a second viewing (this time with the sound on), he only mentions grinding the spindle cap arm. I read Gerry's post before I watched it the first time and was thinking that he ground the notch in the lower web of the axle bigger but he only pointed to it. That notch is still as it was cast into the axle.
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Ken-

That's what I thought, too. For a minute I thought I'd lost my mind.

Actually it probably wouldn't matter much anyway...the highest stress would probably be on the top and bottom flange in the middle where the pivot is, not at the ends.
 
Kraig,
Yes, I believe it was Mark Huffman that made the original drawing. <font size="-1">South Carolina is close to North Carolina
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Paul - From where I sit they're both South !

<font size="-2">back to my gif work ....</font>
 
Huh....coulda fooled me....I guess I'll go look at the 129's axle..
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That 129 numbers are 2050046U487237. So the rear end is or could be original to the 129 built in 8-73. It's a ported hyro with no evidence of ever acually haveing hydraulics on it. Mabey the shortage came along later in the wideframe run with the release of the 169?
 
Marlin,

Was thinking the same thing on the ported pump in a 109-maybe it was replaced somewhere along the line. Let me get this straight, if it has the caps, it should function as a ported pump without adding additional springs etc. Just take the caps off and hook up the lines and go.
On the other note about my 1250 not performing correctly, I have run it enough to "seat" the new valves. It probably has about 5 hours of time on it now.
It was mentioned here that it could have a piece of hair or something between the halves when it was assembled that could cause the poor performance and the ever so slight leak. What do you all think about getting a different pump or try to repair my current pump?
 
Mark - You said that reverse seems to be sluggish. Is it sluggish or just slower speed than before ?
I put new springs in my 2082 and I had to readjust the hydro rod which gives me faster reverse now than before. I need to adjust the plate on the side of the pump now. Could yours be doing the same thing only slower in reverse and maybe faster now than before in forward ?

Kraig - <font size="-2">I'm calling it quits for the night !</font>
 

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