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Archive through July 15, 2011
- Thread starter dfrisk
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Rob, this is all I have on hand.
The inside width Z would have to match the outside width of the lower bracket that mounts behind the draw bar.
The inside width Z would have to match the outside width of the lower bracket that mounts behind the draw bar.
Kraig, I see from the picture the Z dim is 9-3/4, but my lower bracket measures 9-1/4" which leaves 1/4" gap between the two on each side. Seems like an awful lot considering the pins only go though one of each holes. It's really hard to read the tap measure. Looks like it's between 11-1/2 to 12-1/2.
But then again my lower bracket could be the wrong one or is bent.
But then again my lower bracket could be the wrong one or is bent.
Rob.
Thats just happends to be how they are made up, it allows for easy install.
I purchased one a few years back that was made the exact same width as the lower bracket and it is a pain to install as you need to spread the hitch arms and they dont move easly.
Thats just happends to be how they are made up, it allows for easy install.
I purchased one a few years back that was made the exact same width as the lower bracket and it is a pain to install as you need to spread the hitch arms and they dont move easly.
Thanks Kraig! Is this the Diagram you were referring to? it looks a little different than the picture you posted but looks like it may work. Is there anywhere I can get the bracket from? Our sponsors? Help! I want to be prepared for winter.
Hi all, I'm a long time lurker, first time posting. I have a 149 Cub and made a big booboo. I was mowing the grass at the entrance of our developement when the drive shaft broke. I towed it home behind the family car. I drove the Cub, holding up the check valve lever. Later I read the owners manual and it said that towing would damage the transmission.
So, the question is: how much damage did I do and what do I need to do to make it right. I have the parts and service manuals and have read the procedures for servicing the hydro unit.
Thanks for any help and advice. You may scold me if it helps.
Cal
So, the question is: how much damage did I do and what do I need to do to make it right. I have the parts and service manuals and have read the procedures for servicing the hydro unit.
Thanks for any help and advice. You may scold me if it helps.
Cal
Calvin, WELCOME!
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
You may scold me if it helps.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
OK:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
You may scold me if it helps.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
OK:
JB, I believe it's actually the item # 15 in that drawing. The item you have circled in red would be for the Cadet lawn tractor.
JB, you could very well be right. In any case, if you can't procure the proper item, it should be fairly easy to fab up a workable bracket.
Calvin-
It might not be affected at all and it might be toast. I'd service it as best you can and just try it. Another pump can be had for under $100 I'm sure and most will bolt right on. Just make sure the replacement is ported. The worst part is having to split the tractor but you'll have a fully serviced rearend/pump for another twenty+ years.
Good luck.
It might not be affected at all and it might be toast. I'd service it as best you can and just try it. Another pump can be had for under $100 I'm sure and most will bolt right on. Just make sure the replacement is ported. The worst part is having to split the tractor but you'll have a fully serviced rearend/pump for another twenty+ years.
Good luck.
snicklas
Well-known member
Calvin,
I guess some more clarification would be helpful, such as:
1. How far was it towed?
2. How fast?
3. Was there any odd sounds, such as when you shut it off and happen to move the lever while the engine is winding and it makes the whining/growling sound?
I have towed cubs before, at times several hundred yards, and it was normally behind another Cub, and not very fast. But as long as you were not towed several miles, really fast, you will probally be ok..... if there were any odd sounds during the tow, that would be bad. I am not saying there was no damage, but I am not trying to suggest you totaled the transmission/pump either. I, in my personal opinion, think you can get away with towing one with the manual valves more that the automatic valves. I personally do not care for the automatic valves.....
I guess some more clarification would be helpful, such as:
1. How far was it towed?
2. How fast?
3. Was there any odd sounds, such as when you shut it off and happen to move the lever while the engine is winding and it makes the whining/growling sound?
I have towed cubs before, at times several hundred yards, and it was normally behind another Cub, and not very fast. But as long as you were not towed several miles, really fast, you will probally be ok..... if there were any odd sounds during the tow, that would be bad. I am not saying there was no damage, but I am not trying to suggest you totaled the transmission/pump either. I, in my personal opinion, think you can get away with towing one with the manual valves more that the automatic valves. I personally do not care for the automatic valves.....
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
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- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Mark G. I'm home for the weekend. I thought about your ported hydro questions a little more today. Here goes some things to think about.
Yes, the ported pump will fit onto the 1250. You will need to get the lines and other necessary pieces from a 1450 or 1650 to make it work. The ported pump allowing for hydrualic lift was an expensive option for the non ported hydro tractors. At the time my ex-wife and I bought our IH built 682, I asked how much more to have the tractor converted to hydrualic lift. The dealer said $500.00 and wasn't kidding either.
Now... If you've installed both check valves as new they may need to be broken in. I remember years back how on the old "across-the-street-forum" the guys would rebuild their hydros and then to get the hydro check valves to "function" properly they would push the hydro lever forward backward several times to as they called it, " seat the check valves" (or something like that). Okay now THAT IS EXTREMELY dangerous and I don't recommend doing such a thing unless the tractor is jacked up off the ground and tightly secured so that it won't come off the jacks.
When you mentioned the sluggish in reverse, it occured to me while working that is the signs of a sticking check valve. Since both valves appear to be reacting in the same mannerism, I'd be a little more aggressive when using the forward/reverse lever for awhile. Only Again... USE COMMON SENSE or jack the tractor up like I previously suggested. Anything will perform more smoothly once it is broken in. It takes a little for those new parts to get "comfortable with each other".
One final thing.... If your ported hydro just has the caps on it then the implement relief spring and shims and plunger should still be present. What I am thinking is someone replaced the original non ported pump with a ported pump on your Cub Cadet.
<font color="0000ff">Calvin C. First of all Welcome to the best Forum there is for Cub Cadet information.
Now... No, I am not going to scold you for such a thing. Instead I am going to state a few things to try and help you out here.
Good thing that you did. You held the hydro lever while towing. That in effect puts the check valves into the dump mode whereas the oil will bypass and not allow pressure to build up.
How fast did you tow the Cub Cadet and how far did you tow it is my next question? A hundred feet at no more than three miles per hour shouldn't have hurt anything. More than three miles per hour or even at that speed for a longer distance there is a possibility of pressure building up and then internal damage is possible.
Here is what you should do first. Fix or replace the broken driveshaft parts. Start your tractor up and see if the hydro works. You won't know if you've done any damage until you do this first. THEN if it works as before you've been fortunate. If not check back in here and we'll walk you through rebuilding or replacing your hydro with another one. Right now I wouldn't sweat until the driveshaft is fixed.
I hope this helps both of you gentlemen out.</font>
Yes, the ported pump will fit onto the 1250. You will need to get the lines and other necessary pieces from a 1450 or 1650 to make it work. The ported pump allowing for hydrualic lift was an expensive option for the non ported hydro tractors. At the time my ex-wife and I bought our IH built 682, I asked how much more to have the tractor converted to hydrualic lift. The dealer said $500.00 and wasn't kidding either.
Now... If you've installed both check valves as new they may need to be broken in. I remember years back how on the old "across-the-street-forum" the guys would rebuild their hydros and then to get the hydro check valves to "function" properly they would push the hydro lever forward backward several times to as they called it, " seat the check valves" (or something like that). Okay now THAT IS EXTREMELY dangerous and I don't recommend doing such a thing unless the tractor is jacked up off the ground and tightly secured so that it won't come off the jacks.
When you mentioned the sluggish in reverse, it occured to me while working that is the signs of a sticking check valve. Since both valves appear to be reacting in the same mannerism, I'd be a little more aggressive when using the forward/reverse lever for awhile. Only Again... USE COMMON SENSE or jack the tractor up like I previously suggested. Anything will perform more smoothly once it is broken in. It takes a little for those new parts to get "comfortable with each other".
One final thing.... If your ported hydro just has the caps on it then the implement relief spring and shims and plunger should still be present. What I am thinking is someone replaced the original non ported pump with a ported pump on your Cub Cadet.
<font color="0000ff">Calvin C. First of all Welcome to the best Forum there is for Cub Cadet information.
Good thing that you did. You held the hydro lever while towing. That in effect puts the check valves into the dump mode whereas the oil will bypass and not allow pressure to build up.
How fast did you tow the Cub Cadet and how far did you tow it is my next question? A hundred feet at no more than three miles per hour shouldn't have hurt anything. More than three miles per hour or even at that speed for a longer distance there is a possibility of pressure building up and then internal damage is possible.
Here is what you should do first. Fix or replace the broken driveshaft parts. Start your tractor up and see if the hydro works. You won't know if you've done any damage until you do this first. THEN if it works as before you've been fortunate. If not check back in here and we'll walk you through rebuilding or replacing your hydro with another one. Right now I wouldn't sweat until the driveshaft is fixed.
I hope this helps both of you gentlemen out.</font>
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
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- 3,133
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Scott N. You just stated a very important thing. NEVER TOW any tractor equipped with the automatic check valves. It doesn't take but a few feet and the pressure begins to build immediately with those little critters.
snicklas
Well-known member
Marlin,
I don't like the auto valves. In all the one have had, we have only had 1 manual leak, and at least 3 autos leak. My 1450 had the autos and would leave a trail behind it... at this point I have manuals with an older tunnel cover... which unless you notice a couple of other things, you would not know it was "incorrect" since the early Quietlines had the manual valves......
I don't like the auto valves. In all the one have had, we have only had 1 manual leak, and at least 3 autos leak. My 1450 had the autos and would leave a trail behind it... at this point I have manuals with an older tunnel cover... which unless you notice a couple of other things, you would not know it was "incorrect" since the early Quietlines had the manual valves......
elamott
Well-known member
This is early but I am doing some work on my Q A 42 snow blower and would like to replace the needle bearings on the power shaft. It is the bearing on each side of the sprocket gear that tightens the chain to the auger.Does anyone know if this is a standard bearing or do I have to go to a CC dealer for the part? Also I assume that these are pressed on but I am hoping that I can remove them with a C clamp.
I like to do any maintenance when it is warm out instead of struggling in the cold.
Thanks for any info
Earl LaMott
I like to do any maintenance when it is warm out instead of struggling in the cold.
Thanks for any info
Earl LaMott
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Ken:
Manual ones will too.. The 129 took out most of a good forsythia bush a few years ago when I left it standing on a slope without locking the brake pedal down (you DO lock the brake down, don't cha' ??) I assume this happens more on older tractors when pressure bleeds off faster inside the pump.
Manual ones will too.. The 129 took out most of a good forsythia bush a few years ago when I left it standing on a slope without locking the brake pedal down (you DO lock the brake down, don't cha' ??) I assume this happens more on older tractors when pressure bleeds off faster inside the pump.
