Archive through July 15, 2010

[jdreaves]

Gerry - a big thanks. This is exactly the information I was looking for. Already printed up the drawing for the Spring Compressor and will get it fabricated ASAP.

 

[twilie]

Matt G,

I just finished reading on your site how to rebuild a carb. Very good instructions and pics. As one that has rebuilt a fair number of carbs I came away with two unaddressed concerns; )1 There is no mention as to how to remove the main jet seat or better yet no warning not to even try it.

, #2) no mention of the tiny little ball and spring that lives in it's own tiny little cave behind the dead end of the choke shaft and no warning that it will jump across the room, never to be seen again, after the little brass screws have been twisted off and filed down and the choke shaft removed. Now I could use a little help. This guy I know,

, has a #30 carb with a drilled out main jet seat drilled out almost to the threads but with a thin brass liner still in the hole. Any suggestions? Also, where would one find a replacement tiny litte ball to tention MY choke shaft. I'm 67, I still have my 149 I bought new in 1973 (I have since acquired two 1450's) and I'm still learning what NOT to do. Thanks

 

[mgwin]

Jeff B.,
I would say the tires and weight would be the difference (pushing snow). The horsepower would not be that much of an issue, considering all cubs have relatively the "same transmission."
Here in NC we are lucky to even get a measurable snow. We did get a few this year, but it's been 10 years since the last snow over 3 inches! I wish we got the snow like you guys.

 

[mbounds]

Art A: Of course, you could also put a blade on your 6hp Model 60 Rear Engine Rider and really move that snow!!

Myron B

 

[kide]

TG:
I'm sure Matt will step in here, but from my experience, the only way to finish what you started on the main jet seat at this point is find a bottoming tap of the correct thread as the original, drill the brass to the minimum root diameter of the tap and chase the rest of the brass out with the tap.

I'm not sure why you pulled the choke shaft, there are no passages, etc. that would be accessible after removal of the plate and shaft (actually, same with the throttle shaft, but that's being taken out to fix the slop in the shaft). You might try looking at various sizes of steel shot as a replacement ball, good luck on the spring.....

Congrats on the one owner 149!!!

 

[jcleer]

Thanks Charlie but it shows 2 belts.......Whats the right one they are way diff lengths.


72, 104, 105, 124, 125

38", 42" IH-473462-R4 -3/8 X 81"


42" IH-477599-R2-1/2 X 77"

 

[fcurrier]

Joe, they're different widths. Don't you need the 1/2"one?

 

[ralbert]

Joe...the one I use on my 42" deck is the ...477599 R-2

 

[rwilke]

Yes, it calls for a 3/8" wide belt, but I have run a 1/2" belt successfully with my 129 and 127 with a 42" belly mower.

I think it depends on the amount of wear on your particular pulley/sheave. As long as the belt rides down in the groove, it should be ok.

But if the sides of the belt are being cut by the edge of the sheave or if the belt is bottoming out inside the sheave, the belt won't live long at all.

Of course, don't use a generic 'furnace belt' or 'automotive belt' as they won't last long either. Use only an 'implement use' belt.
Ryan Wilke

 

[aaytay]

Myron-
But if you're going to go through ALL of the trouble to mount that up, why not just do what THIS guy did!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zZkyLTfLPg&feature=fvw