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Archive through July 15, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Yes the shaft at both ends is turning. The filter is hard to get at, as the tractor has a quickway loader on it. The information you 'guys' have given has never steered me wrong, what ever you think i'm on it. As soon as it stops raining in maryland I'll get on it. Any other ideas? Thanks. Owen.
 
Just a thought, if you got a loader on it, I'd check for a broken axle.
 
This weekend while using my 107, the "shift" lever began to not return properly when the "stop" foot lever was depressed. Instead of placing the tractor in "neutral", it now goes to a "slow reverse" position, causing the tractor to actually move in reverse while turning the starter. (Also, the fastest forward speed is now reduced)

I am not aware of any particular event which caused this to happen, but I'm guessing that it has happened to others here.

What do I do?
 
Had a good weekend,

Stoped by Mike M's up in Elgin, meet up with Bubba and Brad D. Man does mike have the "Toy store" thing going on!!!

Thanks for the nickel tour and the company.
 
Kenneth, does it also exhibit any of the symptoms in FAQ #12? (Please note that the text refers to a model #1250 so some of the details will not apply to your 107, for instance the tunnel cover is not removable on a 107) What I would do first is lubricate the hydro lever control assembly in the pedestal. There is likely plenty of wear and if it is getting a bit stiff it may not return all the way to neutral, then proceed to check out the other linkages and procedures outlined in the FAQ. One of my 125s had a similar symptom as yours some time ago and a simple lubrication fixed it.
 
Hi Kraig,

Thanks for the reply. I can't say that mine exhibits the symptoms of "hydro creep". It seems more like something in the linkage has moved out of position or is binding.

I will take a closer look at it later this week and see what I find.

-- Ken
 
I think I am going to take back a portion of what I just said. I am new to my 107. It has always sped up and slowed down on hills. I just thought this was normal.

However this new symptom is new.

-- Ken
 
Kenneth, ah! It's possible that the wear has gotten to the point where the spring in the trunion slot may have cocked slightly. Make sure everything is working smoothly first i.e., lubricate the linkages but you may have to repair the trunion slot.
20400.jpg

Above is a worn trunion slot, much more wear and the spring could pop out of place. This is a spare hydro from my collection that someday will get repaired.

20401.jpg

This is a repaired and reinforced slot. Keystock was used to reinforce the slot. This was Steve Blunier's repair.

20402.jpg

Another view of Steve's repaired trunion.

20403.jpg

Above are the proper dimensions of the trunion slot.
 
Thanks Kraig. Appreciate the photos especially. Of all the things in my arsenal, I do not have a welder (perhaps it is time).

If I find what you suspect, is this piece available as a replacement part at a reasonable cost?

- Ken
 
Kenneth, it would be easier to repair it. I believe that in order to replace it you would have to take apart the hydrostatic pump. Steve rebuilt his hydrostatic pump so he repaired his while it was apart.
 
Hmmm... ok I will go in and have a look-see. I'll post back what I find.

-- Ken
 
What's the best way to convert a 48" deck or a 42" cast-iron-end deck for mulching? And which one will mulch best? I'm moving to five acres with over a hundred oak trees, and I AIN'T gonna rake or bag!
 
Would anyone be able to take a pic of a 1250 with manual lift (with the tunnel cover off) so I can see what the difference is between a manual and a hydraulic lift?
I am stripping a 1450 and need to know how far to go to have the right parts.

Dean
 
John,

Two words...Trac-Vac......neither will mulch that volume of leaves.
 
John S. -

Or...

Wait til the leaves completely dry out. That'll help some. Or wait for the next hurricane...

Yes, a Trac Vac is the real answer.
 
Dean, will these do? At a minimum, you'll need the ported hydrostatic pump, the control valve, the lever for the control valve, the hydraulic lines, the hydraulic cylinder and the rockshaft out of the 1450.

20405.jpg


20406.jpg


Photos are some that Chris B. took of his 1250.
 
STEVE, BRYAN Your GATOR's really mulching to too. BT-DT when Wyatt helped Me mow about 2-3 yrs ago. He had Gator's on His 44" deck and I was mowing with my little old 38" deck with the vac and the volume of material was cut almost in half! compared to the day before when I vacumned alone. You should have seen the dust fly from Wyatt's 169!
 
You do not need the rockshaft......

You will need to get all of the mounting hardware for the cylinder and the valve as well.

Dealer items include....

New cork gasket for hydro, new filter, 2 gallons of hytran (change it now), rear cover gasket, trunion springs, buttons, etc. (fix it now, while the hydro is out), new driveshaft rubbers and maybe fan....(fix it while it's apart), etc. etc.ect.

Really is an easy swap, but it does almost require splitting the tractor......do ANY/ALL work associated with splitting the tractor now to save doing it again, that's why I added the extra parts.

You can also upgrade the hydro lever linkage to the clamp on style to make adjustment and future service easier.....picture Kraig????

(Message edited by sblunier on July 19, 2004)
 
Thanks for the correction Steve. I wasn't sure if the rockshaft was required or if it would need to be modified or....
 

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