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Archive through July 15, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Bryan,
I'd like to do some lawn fertilizing and grub killing without having to drag the sprinkler and hose all over the yard. Using either your crystal ball or software, would you tell me when we're going to have 1/2" or more of rain in at my house? No need for an exact start time. Within an hour will be okay.
While you're at it, do you have anything for predicting lottery numbers? Naturally, this is on topic, since it would be used for Cub, Cub Hauler, Cub Tools, and Cub Shed funds.
Thanks.
 
Bryan, if you are into weather predicting we could sure use some! Too dry to mow any more, too windy to spray. Cubs just have to sit around looking ugly
 
Hey, be nice guys, I just got my 5 gallon pin at the local vampire, I mean blood bank.

I'm heaving the 50A around today even though they told me not to
wink.gif
Let's see how far I can blow that clot...

I'm glad to report that the Original fired off on the first crank today. Not bad for sitting since September. She's a little dusty, but that'll come right off on the trailer
lol.gif


BTW, anyone here got a nice hi-rez pic of Mr. Schramm that they can send me? I'd like to print one off for my local dealer, since he knew and worked with the man at <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT>. Thanks.
 
Question of the day. I just ordered a TC-113 from my Cadet dealer. I see chassis manuals available on the net. I think the TC-113 shows all the parts. Does the chassis manual shows how to break down the tractor?
jimmac
 
Jim M.
The TC-113 shows all the chassis stuff/break down you will need. But ya really shoulda ordered from one of the sponsors shown above. ;-)
 
Hi Guys n Gals not sure how to attatch this link so some extra typing may be involved but I sure did enjoy the slide show Jim Price made from the Northwest Binder roundup of all the IH tractors which included a cub or 2 Hope you enjoy it

http://community.webshots.com/user/jimprice113

I was unfortunatly not able to take my 1962 Scout 80 or my 109 but next year for sure.
Maybe I do know how to attach the link

(Message edited by dbellamy on July 17, 2004)
 
Warning! Nekked pictures
happy.gif


Well, at least the paint's stripped . . . . wasn't going to post pictures of the continued building until it's done, thought this was worth sharing.
20387.jpg

20388.jpg


Dennis Frisk helped me get set up on a welder today so I could plug weld the tunnel cover back on. Came out better than I could have hoped for. Hopefully I can get in touch with Dan H so I can get the rest of the tractor to paint, but it's all coming together well.
 
Digger Thanks for the heads up. I will remember to use those sponsors. Looks like I've got a road trip. I agreed to by a Cadet 125 on E-bay tonight. Looked to be in good shape although it seemed to have an odd seat. It looked like hard white plastic. My wife thinks I am a little nuts to drive 514 miles one way for an old lawn tractor.
jimmac
 
Wow, Wyatt- did you clean up the welds on the 147's flywheel-area frame reliefs? The 147 I have here has really nasty-lookin' (but nonetheless factory) work...

I've been thinkin... I've got this 127 chassis here that's been access-hole chopped, but otherwise it's fairly complete... contemplating the possibility of a V4 Wisconsin fitting in that space... perhaps a 4" stretch... serious pullin' tires... :-}

DK :)
 
Dave-
One side is pretty nice, the other side almost looks like whoever welded it ran out of gas, starts out OK, but then gets less & less penetration and becomes porous. Hence the plug welding of the cover. It's very apparent that the original spot welds allowed the chassis to flex quite a bit. If the cover was welded solid, flex would be forced to only happen at the blower housing relief.
 
I was just reading the posts about gas octane.
I remember reading a kohler service bulliten from the late 60s or early 70s that stated they changed the
octane rating system, and that under the new rating system, it is OK to run 87 octane.
 
Todd-
Here's the "long answer" that I was holding off on, learned a lot when I worked at Waukesha Engine, folks that make the ONLY certified instrument for measuring octane.

Fuels used to be measured on the "Motor Octane Number" where a Waukesha "Knock Engine" or THE CFR (cooperative fuel reasearch) engine. The instrument is a variable compression engine which runs at about 900RPM and over the course of the test gradually increases the compression until detonation, aka knock, is sensed by a very finely tuned mechanical device. Once the knock is noted, THAT is where the MON is given.

The second half, and the addition to make for the modern method of octane rating still uses the Waukesha CFR instrument, but this "Research Method" runs the instrument at 600RPM against a pure known fuel, something like Toluene, Xylene, or Methanol which have a known octane of 114, 117, and 101 respectively, those are some of the many fuels that can be used. I'm not exactly sure how the research number is arrived at, but I'm assuming it's some sort of sliding scale relative to the measurement of a known fuel.

Together, the Research Method (R) and the Motor Method (M) combine to make the R+M/2 octane formula you'll see on the octane decals on fuel pumps.

In addition to all that, go to the Toyota MR2 Owners Club page for a very good page of information.

(Message edited by wcompton on July 18, 2004)

(Message edited by wcompton on July 18, 2004)
 
I am almost blind from reading all the FAQ that might have information on choosing wheel weights.

There are wheel weights available that were installed on a 122, and I was wondering would they fit on a 125 that I am do to pic up next weekend?

jimmac
 
Jim,
Assuming that the 125 has stock IH wheels, the factory type weights should bolt right on. I've interchanged rear wheels/tires/weights among my 125, 147, and 109, using 8.50" and 10.50" tires. Different bolt lengths would be required depending on the width and offset of the wheels. If your 122 and 125 both have 8.50" tires, bolts should even be the same.
 
As of now the Auction I was going to have this Oct. has been cancled, It still might happen but not till at least next spring. There is a lot I would need to get done by then and am running short on time.

Spent a couple days at the Indiana chapter IH show this last weekend. It was nice to see some of you, but all and all it was one of the smaller Indiana IH shows so far only 6 or so Cub Cadets there. The 2" of rain Fri probably did not help anything.
 
I had to go testify Monday against one of the guys that stole my Cub Cadet stuff. I got a call from the county attorney Thurs, and one of the 3 guys got 10 years in prison. The other two have not been sentenced yet.

I would like to thank everyone that took time to help out with the prices. The defense attorney could not even dispute the values. Thanks a bunch!!!
 
Help, I was helping a neighbor move some of his stone back onto his driveway and the 147 died. I move the hydro handle and no movement, it is like it is in neutral. I can see the linkage moving and the end shaft of the pump moving, but no tractor movement? If that doesn't do it, when I was moving it to the side of the road the steering rod from the column to the spindle broke! I was ready to spit nails! Had to go to the farm and get the G**n tractor and lift the front of the 147 up so I could drag it back home. Any help is needed. Thanks. Owen.

(Message edited by ofletcher on July 18, 2004)
 
Are you sure the shaft to the pump (the shaft that actually goes into the hydro) is turning? Check the shaft coming OUT the back of the hydro to be sure. It sounds like you sheared a pin in the driveshaft. If not, check the filter to see if it is plugged.
 

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