Archive through July 15, 2004

[digger]

Dean R.
They are PN/717-3031 and list for $263.32.

 

[dreinbold]

Thanks, Digger

Dean

 

[jjohnson]

I have a early cub model 1000. While mowing the shifter came lose and now swings side to side 180 degrees. It can still be shifted, but it is awkward. What happened and how do I fix this. I am new to the old cubs to work on. I will be very thankful for any help.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jimmy, on the older cubs there is a roll pin that can shear that causes the shift lever to rotate like that. On the "newer" models like your 1000 I believe there is a stud that prevents it from rotating. Never having had one apart, I can only assume that either the stud or the slot it rides in has worn to the point where it no longer prevents the shift lever from rotating. In the drawing below, the stud would be in part #8 and the slot would be in part #10. Be aware that I'm no gear drive Cub expert so if I'm wrong I'll be corrected shortly (likely within a day, "shortly" being a relative term) by the gear drive experts so stay tuned. )

Also, I saw your earlier post, as I'm sure did many others, however, please note that at times there may not be anyone lurking that has the answer to a query it could take minutes or days to get an answer. My answer above is only a best guess as I'm not 100% sure.

Under edit: See I was wrong! But, even though I wasn't 100% sure I was right, I was about 99% correct in thinging I was wrong. )

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on July 15, 2004)

 

[rchristensen]

Jimmy Johnson
This metal piece inside of the shifter probably broke.

Usually not worth rebuilding, call one of the sponsers for a good used one.

 

[rchristensen]

Jimmy Johnson
I might also add that getting the shifter apart can be a bear, removing item #10 in Kraigs picture requires some work. Someone posted a way using a small vise grip once and I don't remember who that was but if he doesn't post I will look through my pictures to see if I still have the picture he posted. I know it worked for me when I was about to get out the torch.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Richard, that was Ted Shushereba's technique.

 

[roundy fendered cubs rule!]

Jimmy,
I've fixed at least 2 shifters and need to fix another. If the piece is still good it can be welded back on and be good as new. I must admit it is a little tuff to do but can easily be done.
I don't know who first posted these pics.

 

[roundy fendered cubs rule!]

Dang-it Kraig!!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's what Ted wrote about the procedure. (Please note that it refers to the older style with the roll pin inside)
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Posted By Ted Shushereba (Master scribe...Keeper of the Scrolls) (Tshushereba) on Thursday, June 17, 1999 - 08:11 pm:

Hi Don and Harry-

When I started to work on my first original I had a roll pin that was partially broken, and had to repair it. On my second tractor, I decided to take some pictures of the repair.

The pin inside is a roll pin, the one outside is a tapered pin-so be careful abour which way you remove it. After I removed the tapered pin, I took a small "C" clamp and put it inside the "H" pattern. Then I took a block of wood and a brake adjusting tool to put some force on the cup, then used a ball pien hammer to tap around the cup to force it loose. The cup is hardened, so you won't hurt it if you are careful. It also only goes back one way, so make sure you reinstall it correctly. Neither of mine were tack welded.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kent, )

 

[rchristensen]

Kraig
Yup thats the one, after I posted that message I remembered it was a C Clamp not a vise grip. I know the method works when everything else I tried didn't. Thanks to Ted S. for sharing it with us and thanks to you for having the pictures and knowing who posted it.

When I tore my shifter apart that part was broken and cracked in about a million pieces. I would have been welding and grinding for a month to get it to work right so I just got a good used one.

 

[jhangartner]

Man I think I may have ruined my carb today. The 1650 that I have been working on had been sitting for awhile and I decarboned the head and adjusted the valves. While the carb was off I thought I would clean it out too. Well I buggered up the slot of the brass shaft with the emulsion holes in it that sticks down into the bowl in the middle of the float. and I think I may have buggered up the tip of the needle that is in the center of it. And it is still frozen in there.

Should I just cut my losses and get a new/used carb or can I get this worked out with some guidance?

Thanks Jason

 

[kweimann]

Jason,
#1, always remove the high speed needle before attempting to remove the emulsion tube.

Did you spray the tube with PB Blaster or WD40 before trying to take it out? Also, the screwdriver you use to remove it must be almost as wide as the slot itself or else it will want to twist out. I made a tool for removing these.

All is not lost though. Worse come to worse, drill out the emulsion tube, then rechase the threads with a 3/8-24 tap.
Brian Miller sells emulsion tubes and carb needles. Email him at [email protected]

Kenny

 

[jjohnson]

Thanks to all with the quick answers for my problem with the shifter. I copied your advice on the fix and pictures. This is allowed, right? Thanks.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jimmy, yes you can save copies of the stuff posted here to use to fix your Cub or even to repost here to help someone in the future. AFAIK, the 2 or 3 photos of the shift lever assembly and the original text description belong to the forum and to Ted S., he is the only one that could post them to another forum without the permission of the forum moderators.

 

[jhangartner]

Yeah I sprayed it with Kroil. Not taking the needle out was my bone head move. I even hollow ground a nice big screwdriver to fit the slot's length and width as nice as it could but man the tube is really stuck. Thanks for the advise on new parts. I'll have to get out the drill now.

 

[wcompton]

So how do you tighten up the "H" pattern insert to a shifter when it comes out on it's own?

The transmission I'm building up looks like it MIGHT have had 100 hours on it at best, shifter looked perfect. Soaked it in lye to strip it and the "H" pattern inser literally fell out. Can I just spread the slot that's punched into it to tighten it up? I'd put a little tack weld on, but I'd like the shifter to be serviceable in case anything happens.

 

[bmcmeen]

Matt G. -

Looks like I'll be at Freeport on Saturday the 24th. I'll be draggin' the Original with (and Julie)

 

[thoffman]

Come on Bryan, Julie will be draggin' you along!
If I'm not working I'll be there on Saturday too. Maybe drag my better half along too.