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Archive through July 12, 2015
- Thread starter elamott
- Start date
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Tom S,
Did you replace the rag joint when you replaced your hub and drive shaft? Rag joints stretch and deteriorate over time and if the holes are worn/elongated, that can cause drive shaft to be off center and result in excessive wear on the hub end and premature drive pin failure. Also, are you using an OEM hardend steel solid drive pin? A hardware store roll pin will not hold up to the force of each power stroke from the engine very long.
There's not much adjustment on the engine but you can loosen the four bolts attaching it to the frame and move it slightly if you think the engine is cocked a bit and binding on the shaft but I would first be focused on the rag joint end. My $.02. Hope that helps.
Did you replace the rag joint when you replaced your hub and drive shaft? Rag joints stretch and deteriorate over time and if the holes are worn/elongated, that can cause drive shaft to be off center and result in excessive wear on the hub end and premature drive pin failure. Also, are you using an OEM hardend steel solid drive pin? A hardware store roll pin will not hold up to the force of each power stroke from the engine very long.
There's not much adjustment on the engine but you can loosen the four bolts attaching it to the frame and move it slightly if you think the engine is cocked a bit and binding on the shaft but I would first be focused on the rag joint end. My $.02. Hope that helps.
Ron and Jeff,
Thanks for the input. I have been using roll pins as supplied by my Cub dealer on the hub that Jeff pictured. The rag joint is 2-3 years old and the holes are still pretty tight. If I put a small level, vertically mounted, on the engine mounting hub and the coupler arm attached to the hydro unit and neither indicates vertical and there is a difference. Tom
Thanks for the input. I have been using roll pins as supplied by my Cub dealer on the hub that Jeff pictured. The rag joint is 2-3 years old and the holes are still pretty tight. If I put a small level, vertically mounted, on the engine mounting hub and the coupler arm attached to the hydro unit and neither indicates vertical and there is a difference. Tom
Tom S., WELCOME!
As others have said, a roll pin will not hold up there, you need the solid hardened "Dowel" pin.
As others have said, a roll pin will not hold up there, you need the solid hardened "Dowel" pin.
jchamberlin
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Shultzie: this is the pin that Charlie is talking about, from his web site:
As used in my 149:
Tom Sabic: When I installed my new Hub in an old axle, it kept throwing the drive pin out until I put a hose clamp around the entire hub assembly.
I would recommend getting a new driveshaft if you can afford it, I think it would help hold the pin tight. In fact, I believe someone posted recently that they try to heat the shaft and freeze the pin. Where I work they try not to do both, but either heat the drive shaft (which has the hole) or freeze the pin with dry ice; but not both.
Anyway, my two cents.
Tom S: If you really want to fix it, install a Quietline drive train with a rag joint at both ends, or at least that is what the experts counsel.
As used in my 149:
Tom Sabic: When I installed my new Hub in an old axle, it kept throwing the drive pin out until I put a hose clamp around the entire hub assembly.
I would recommend getting a new driveshaft if you can afford it, I think it would help hold the pin tight. In fact, I believe someone posted recently that they try to heat the shaft and freeze the pin. Where I work they try not to do both, but either heat the drive shaft (which has the hole) or freeze the pin with dry ice; but not both.
Anyway, my two cents.
Tom S: If you really want to fix it, install a Quietline drive train with a rag joint at both ends, or at least that is what the experts counsel.
Myron B.
The TC-113 & TC-157 are both wrong!
That's why they are called dowel pins.
The TC-113 & TC-157 are both wrong!
That's why they are called dowel pins.
