Archive through July 12, 2010

[pbell]

Greg J.
The recoil starters used on the Cub Cadets was made by Fairbanks, supplied by Kohler. The recoil units and parts are listed in the Kohler Master Parts Manual. There were also 3 or 4 other recoil units used by Kohler, but the Fairbanks is the only one used on the Cub Cadets. There was one made by Eaton that looks similar, but is different, and may be what you have.

 

[gjohnson]

Thanks Paul I'll have to locate one of those manuals.

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE B. - Not sure about the KT17 in a 782, but the Kohler replacement main fuel valves for K-series have VITON tips sealing against machined brass surfaces. Not a whole lot of wear takes place but they're almost ALWAYS included in carb rebuild kits. I'd check the parts look-up above, maybe shoot a sponsor an e-mail and make sure the rebuild lit includes the new seat/valve and other gaskets you need.

DON, MARTY G. - The first grill I mentioned didn't even have SS burners. They burned out even quicker than 18 months. Then the steel powder-coat painted legs rusted thru, and the wood holding the glass shelves rotted away. The "Side Burner Option" we never even used was nice though. Ohh, the ignitor worked ONE time. Then it was always lite with "Farmer Matches". It wasn't a "Cheap" grill, would have cost over $400 retail in about 1990. I'd mention the name but there's NO chance of anyone getting a grill from them, they stopped making grills in about 1992.

 

[jdeshazo]

im rebuilding my 1450s motor and the crank is all boogered up from when the rod blew, and im not sure if it can be turned i have an extra crank from a junk motor the casting numbers on one side match (C67) but on the other side one says H 5 and the other says J 5 will they interchange or do i need to locate another crank. thanks
josh

 

[T-Mo]

Marty,
Thanks for those pictures.

 

[jbaker]

Dennis thanks for the carbon advice,

I am thinking about trading the ported pump from a 149 to my 129, besides a new cork gasket is it just an even switch or is there more to it?

 

[bzingleman]

Greetings again!

One question tonight.

Are the ignition points covers the same size for the 100 models mine is a 124

Thanks Again

Bill

 

[proessler]

Bill Z If you click on the " Parts Lookup " near the upper part of this page, you can find that they are the same Kohler # KH232535.

 

[rnajecki]

David G. -
Regarding your 149 with 48" deck, the specs for tightening the outer spindles are 55 to 70 ft lbs for the top (pulley) nut, and 55 to 60 ft lbs for the hex nut next to the blade. Any chance you misplaced the fiber friction washer that should be between the blade and spindle? Or wrongly put that friction washer between the blade and hex nut? Another possibility, is the blade hitting something while spinning, causing it to 'unscrew'?

 

[bjerzak]

Hi, first post here. I have a 100 that I started to restore or at least repaint when I was a senior in high school. I never finished it and now I'm 25 and would like to get it done. Where I'm stuck at the moment is my battery box is rusted away. Can anyone post pictures of the battery box? Or even measurements? Second question is what battery do I buy? Thanks everyone, Ben

 

[wmiller]

Jeff Baker, Most of the cylinder wear in the Kohlers I o'hauled was at the bottom of the stroke. Piston will need to be removed to see for sure. Looks like the head nuts stayed on several of the head studs,be sure to get the head nuts off the studs and put them back in the block before you put the head back on. If you decide to rebuild, leave them out for the machine shop folks. How does the cyl bore look? Parallel scratches or scuff marks could indicate plugged cooling fins and cyl hot spots, which can take the tension out of the rings. Excessive piston ring groove side clearance can cause high oil consumption. Many/most people use a new piston and a new rod when they rebuild. The block can be bored .010-.020-.030 oversize. The crank can be turned .010 undersize. My 126 "drank" oil but didn't look too bad when I pulled the head,then I pulled the piston,rebore! Have the machine shop "hot tank" block,some can also do the aluminum head. Get a copy of the Kohler engine manual.It is well written with lots of illustrations. One note of caution,the manual covers several K series,so be sure the text and illustration refers to yours.

 

[dross]

Ben,

Welcome. I don't have a picture for you, but someone will in the morning. Good luck with your 100, they're great tractors.

 

[kide]

I may be wrong, but in the pics on the last page of Bryan's "O", the sheet metal surround on the top front part of the pedestal, is the battery box, and all that was used was a pair of "J" hold down bolts and a strap (see CCS's web site for the hold down items).. Kraig'll set me right ....

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ben, WELCOME!

See below for battery box info.

Gerry, close, the Original used a slightly different style battery box than the 70/100 used. However, both used the same style hold down. The early 70/100 had a battery box that was larger and an auto battery could be used. Later the box was made smaller and only a L&G battery would fit. Here's a photo of a 100 battery box, this is a photo of the 100 that Matt G. refurbished last summer.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Terry R., here's the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Narrow Frame spring assist, with the Brinly in some photos for comparison.

(Sorry to all with dial up.)

 

[kmcconaughey]

I should probably post this as well:

 

[ljones]

Got my o static timed yesterday now runs like a clock !

My front wheels on my o are realy wobely frome side to side are the berrings bad is there a bushing?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Lucas, the Original used bushings in the rims not bearings. There is probably some slop (as in it's worn) where the spindles are in the cast axle as well as in the wheel bushings and the axle that the wheel bushing rides on. Pull the tires/wheels off and inspect the axle, I bet it will have visible wear. New bushings will help but likely will not remove all the slop.

 

[gsmyth]

1450
I hope I'm not stepping into it yet again but... What is it I need to install a front snow plow on a 1450? I have no information about what it would take to buy and fit a plow. I checked the archives and find much on snow throwers but relatively little on a plow as well as some pictures. Was there a manual? If so it would be helpful. Do I need chains, wheel weights, to keep the battery warmer? Are aftermarket plows made? Are they any good? Are IH plows available/made? Suggestions as to cost? Start me off with a guide and source please. Unlike earlier this spring, I have some time until December.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Gary, here is a LINK to a manual that covers the model that would fit your 1450. Yes it says 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149 but it IS the style that will fit your 1450. Chains and wheel weights help, the more weight the better. If you have a paved driveway the chains will scratch it.