Archive through July 12, 2010

[T-Mo]

Kraig,
Thanks a lot for the pictures. It's good to see the two assist springs side by side like that. I may have some ideas on how to make a sort of IH spring. I have to find the time to do some 3D modeling.

 

[kide]

Gary:
Didja look in Charlie's manuals for the spring trip blade manual? It tells you just about everything you need to know, all in one handy package.. As far as battery warmer, etc., why don't you see how well the 1450 starts in cold weather before getting too far ahead..

Kraig: the one I linked to shows the 1450

 

[kmcconaughey]

Terry R., glad to help out. Let me know if you need more accurate dimensions on any of the parts.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Gerry, yes, however it also shows the narrow frame sub-frame mount. The variations in sub-frames tends to confuse people. The manual I linked to only shows the wide frame sub-frame mount which is why I linked to it and why didn't link to the manual you did.

 

[ljones]

Thanks for the pic Kraig I pulled mine off and the spindal is slightly worn but the bushings are bad.

Will autolight 216 spark plugs work on my k-181 in my o ?

I can here a tiking in my cub o when it runs exspecialy at low idel what causes that and how do I fix it ?

Got the oil changed in my o had a 4 point sokket in my toolbox and dident even now it.

 

[T-Mo]

Kraig,
Will do. I think I can dublicate this design too, but I would want to simplify the one bracket that attaches to the rock shaft - that looks like it can be minimize to make it easier to manufacture. Of course, having a nut welded to a spring is out of the question also - you would lose too much strength in the spring when it gets heat applied to it. If anyone here who knows more about welding spring material, I would love to hear from you.

 

[dfrisk]

GARY - Tough to say what a frt blade for your 1450 would cost. Price is determined by condition, if it's complete, and location, and if anybody else is looking for them, and if there's more than one available for sale at that time. After running CC's for close to fifty years I finally bought a blade a week ago. But I've had a QA-36 for 28 yrs I never mount anymore.

You may be able to push some snow without chains & added weight in certain conditions, I'm thinking level crushed rock drives. On harder surfaces like blacktop or concrete it's REALLY tough to get traction. My normal snow pushing machine weighs about 7000 pounds, has chains & weights, and it still spins a lot. It will barely move itself let alone move snow on my concrete drive without the chains. And more weight really made no difference, I added 300# to it several years ago. The chains are the key.

Also, I know we've beat this to death here before. A "Snow Plow" is a large machine, either a truck or road grader with a snow BLADE attached to the front. And most here think of a moldboard plow for turning/tilling dirt mounted on the back of a tractor when just the term "Plow" is used.

Not aware of any "after-market" blades, IH made them. Later for the bigger SGT's HABAND made some. There should be plenty of used CC blades around.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Terry R., here's a photo of how that <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> spring assist bracket mounts to the lift rockshaft, helps explain it's complexity...

 

[jelong]

This is my first post. I have been trying to solve a problem with my 1250 with a K301 12 hp. Kohler. It will run at 3/4 to full throttle for approx. 1 to 2 minutes and dies. I have cleaned the gas tank, }replaced fuel line, checked shut off valve, changed points, plug, condensor, set valves(.008" intake .018" exhaust), rebuilt carb., checked vacuum on on crackcase (7" vac), checked compression (90 psi understanding it has an ACR),decarbed head, ran clear fuel line to verify fuel flow, clamped fuel line as soon as engine dies open fuel bowl to verify gas level and still the problem persist. I should note it runs fine at idle or 1/2 throttle and never dies. I've checked fire with my timing light. Even as the engine dies it has fire. I can restart the engine as soon as it dies. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[dross]

Jimmy welcome

. My moneys on the coil. First it's the only thing you haven't changed and just cause it'll trigger a timing light doesn't mean it'll fire the plug.
How'd you check crankcase vac?

 

[dfrisk]

DAVE - There's instructions in the Kohler manual about making a "U-tube manometer. You need 3-4 feet of 1/4" clear tubing, a small chunk of wood, say a 1X4 a foot long, and some sort of stopper, cork, etc.

Push a rigid tube (steel) thru the stopper that seals off the dipstick tube, hook the one end of the clear tubing to the stopper, and fasten the other end in the shape of a "U" to the board and draw lines every inch. Fill the clear tube with water so the "U" shape is HALF FULL, you could color it if you want, Start engine, forget what speed to run the engine, say a fast idle. Stick stopper or cork in the dipstick tube and note how far apart the two top levels of the water in the bottom of the "U" are apart.

Tests the condition of the check(reed)valve on the breather, ring seal. Works great on K-series. Tried it on my buddy's KT17 in an off-topic tractor and almost sucked ALL the water out of the clear tube into the crankcase, so Be CAREFUL. Needless to say, if the opposite happens, you blow all the water out of the tube the engine doesn't pass the test. ;-)

 

[wshytle]

I was browsing cl yesterday with no intentions of finding anything when I came across this 1650. It was selling for $200 so I didn't think much of it as a restorable tractor...too expensive. I kept thinking about the ags on the rear and the wheel weights being worth what the whole tractor was selling for so I ended up calling the guy. He was about 1 1/2 hours away and said someone was coming to look at it that evening. I called him back and asked if another $50 would make the tractor mine and he was interested. He said the guy that was coming didn't sound very interested so he called him and called me back to say I could have it for $250. He's selling the tractor for a friend that needs the money so the extra $50 did it. I hate to use the "auction" attempt but I've certainly had it happen to me. I went and got it and found some nice things that didn't show in the ad pics. It has the 3 pt, headlights, Goodyear 23x10.50s (very little cracking), and the wheel weights. The seat isn't that old with only one small tear. It also came with a very nice 44" deck. It looks like it was gone through and painted about a year ago and used very little since. The bad news is the engine needs going through. From the looks of the front axle area and undercarriage the iso mounts are gone and the pan might have a hole in it.

I just acquired a 129 and a 125 two weeks ago and have been busy messing with the 129. The 125 isn't much as far as a potential but I have been looking for some ags for the 129. That's the main reason for getting the 1650 yesterday.

Here it is after a bath:

I'm still working on the 149 but waiting for some extensive sandblasting which requires cooler weather than we've been having.

Sometimes I wonder why I ever got into all of this "cubbing" but I do enjoy every minute. I just wonder when things will ever come around and I can look at several nice examples of American made machines.....Wayne

 

[gsmyth]

Kraig, Gerry, Dennis
Got the information. Thank you. I'll read first and srart a quest soon.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Dave, here is what Denny was referring to:

 

[dross]

Dennis, Kraig, thanks.

 

[kide]

Dennis and Kraig:
Home made manometers I've built had at least a 36" u-tube column for water... The illustration in the manual seems a little short for measuring 10" of vacuum.

Kraig:
I always figure that if they're smart enough to read.........oh, never mind, you're right. (and that's after I spent at least 20 years on end user support, I guess I should remember..)

 

[jelong]

Dave, Thanks for the input. I'm a little confused though. I definately have fire, the engine runs or am I missing your point. I checked the vac using a manometer.
One additioanl question can someone post a picture of the location of the T (TDC) and S(Spark) on the flywheel. Thanks again Dave.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jimmy, here's some info on where to look. I don't have an actual photo of what the "S" and "T" marks look like but I do have a flywheel from a K321 at home that I could have a look at tonight and take photos of... On second thought it's not from a K321AQS it's from a K321A so it would have a different style flywheel. Not to mention the K321 has a larger flywheel than a K301 soooo, it might not be of much help. I might take a photo anyway just for the archives.

 

[pbell]

Jimmy L
This flywheel is from either a K241 10hp or a K301 12 hp, they use the same flywheel. The holes are help to balance the flywheel. The lines and letters have been filled in with paint to make them easier to see, but they did not come that way from Kohler. So unless someone has painted your's, they will be rusty and hard to see.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Paul, thanks for saving me the trouble of digging my flywheel out!

Boy, they didn't do a very good job on stamping the "S". It looks more like a lower case "c" than an upper case "S".