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Archive through July 12, 2009
- Thread starter tteague
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
mgonitzke
Well-known member
I finally started bolting the 100 back together. I gotta plate a kajillion things yet and paint the white. I've finally got enough filler in the seat so it shouldn't look too bad...Then I just have to fill/sand the hood, sandblast the wheels, paint all the white stuff, put the motor together, touch up yellow, put the decals on, break in the motor, and I'm done
my 128 with the stalling problem.
i first want to make sure no one thinks i am not taking your suggestions seriously. when i say " it cant be that , because.." it is because i feel i already eliminated that possibility.
removing the fuel filter - it acted this way before the fuel filter was installed, so it cant be the fuel filter. it could be a restriction for some other reason, and the camcorder would show an empty fuel filter just before a stall. that is why i think it makes more sense to video tape the fuel filter, then to remove it.
gas cap - i tried running with gas cap removed. still stalled.
gov linkage - i am split between it being just an adjustment and a fuel restriction, possibly something stuck in the fuel shut off or on top of the fuel outlet from the tank. about 40% gov, 40% fuel restriction and 20% exhaust valve.
i think i am going to check the gov adjustment again, set the cam corder on a tripod and tape the gov working from cold start to stall. no load. full throttle.
maybe one of you guys will pick up on a problem with the way the gov functions, or maybe we will see something unexpected happen, and i can finally fix the right problem and stop chasing ghosts.
again, thanks everyone for trying to help.
i first want to make sure no one thinks i am not taking your suggestions seriously. when i say " it cant be that , because.." it is because i feel i already eliminated that possibility.
removing the fuel filter - it acted this way before the fuel filter was installed, so it cant be the fuel filter. it could be a restriction for some other reason, and the camcorder would show an empty fuel filter just before a stall. that is why i think it makes more sense to video tape the fuel filter, then to remove it.
gas cap - i tried running with gas cap removed. still stalled.
gov linkage - i am split between it being just an adjustment and a fuel restriction, possibly something stuck in the fuel shut off or on top of the fuel outlet from the tank. about 40% gov, 40% fuel restriction and 20% exhaust valve.
i think i am going to check the gov adjustment again, set the cam corder on a tripod and tape the gov working from cold start to stall. no load. full throttle.
maybe one of you guys will pick up on a problem with the way the gov functions, or maybe we will see something unexpected happen, and i can finally fix the right problem and stop chasing ghosts.
again, thanks everyone for trying to help.
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Richard-
That's funny, I found the same thing in a 100 this past winter...
That's funny, I found the same thing in a 100 this past winter...
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Frank S.-
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it takes about 20 minutes for this to occur, right? That eliminates the governor in my mind, because that would cause problems right away, not problems that take 20 minutes to surface. It sounds like a heat-related issue. I'm thinking either vapor lock, a bad coil, sticky exhaust valve, or overheating. Is the main jet on the carb set correctly? If it's too lean, that could make a valve stick and also contribute to vapor lock.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it takes about 20 minutes for this to occur, right? That eliminates the governor in my mind, because that would cause problems right away, not problems that take 20 minutes to surface. It sounds like a heat-related issue. I'm thinking either vapor lock, a bad coil, sticky exhaust valve, or overheating. Is the main jet on the carb set correctly? If it's too lean, that could make a valve stick and also contribute to vapor lock.
Frankc S.
What happends when you pull out the choke when it starts to die---if its a lack of fuel problem you should get some kind of reaction. Does it start right back after it stalls? Back firing out the muffler sure does sound like a sticky exhaust valve.
What happends when you pull out the choke when it starts to die---if its a lack of fuel problem you should get some kind of reaction. Does it start right back after it stalls? Back firing out the muffler sure does sound like a sticky exhaust valve.
Hi guys ,just got back home from camping to check on things and off again. wife got 4 weeks vacation. so no Cub time for me. Just read up on the posts here and frank snerd (Fsnerd) i have to add my .02.... Have you got another coil and condenser to try on your cub. i had an issue here with a coil that would go south after i run the cub for a bit. well wife bellows are you ready! so we are off again for a few days. She has plans for the beach for her and the daughter and i just have to drop the trailer for them for a few days. Lol then time off for me
Later Don T
Later Don T
Matt, looking better. Keep the photos coming.
Frank S., I read that you already replaced the condenser but it is acting exactly like a bad condenser as it heats up it starts to fail. It's an inexpensive part to replace, I would try a new one. It could be a fuel flow restriction but the usual cause of that is a plugged gas cap vent and your running without the cap in place should have eliminated that as a problem. I suppose it could still be a restriction in the fuel line somewhere. Are you using rubber fuel line or the factory metal fuel line? If you are using rubber fuel line is it brand new or was it some you had kicking around that looked new?
Sterling, you likely will not get many replies here, as your 1730 and 1486 Cub Cadets are not the IH built units we discus here. Wish I had some info to share with you. You might want to repost in the CCC and MTD Machines & Equipment forum area as that is the place where your vintage units would be discussed. Best wishes.
Frank S., I read that you already replaced the condenser but it is acting exactly like a bad condenser as it heats up it starts to fail. It's an inexpensive part to replace, I would try a new one. It could be a fuel flow restriction but the usual cause of that is a plugged gas cap vent and your running without the cap in place should have eliminated that as a problem. I suppose it could still be a restriction in the fuel line somewhere. Are you using rubber fuel line or the factory metal fuel line? If you are using rubber fuel line is it brand new or was it some you had kicking around that looked new?
Sterling, you likely will not get many replies here, as your 1730 and 1486 Cub Cadets are not the IH built units we discus here. Wish I had some info to share with you. You might want to repost in the CCC and MTD Machines & Equipment forum area as that is the place where your vintage units would be discussed. Best wishes.
CLINT McCall - re. Your stainless steel driveshaft. I've made these comments MANY times on here, Depending on where You get your SS bar and what alloy it actually is makes a LOT of difference whether it's "Better than Stock" or not. Hardware store stainless is cheap 18-8 stainless, maybe the better stuff will be 304. When You compare mechanical properties for these alloys they are little better than the 1018 CRS IH used, they just machine much harder.
Since You mentioned melting a ceramic insert I'll assume the bar You used was something better, probably a piece of 17-4 PH heat-treated. With those alloys You can get some VERY impressive mechanical properties, for instance 17-4 H-900 has over 200,000 PSI tensile strength. THAT would make a very good driveshaft, for a Hydro. Stainless gauls very badly when used as a bearing surface, which means the sliding clutch plate on a gear drive CC would possibly weld itself to the driveshaft or the clutch pilot bearing eventually would.
I also don't like rust, and use stainless frequently (I have the bit tipped drill bits that won't even drill soft wood to prove it!) but mostly only for small brackets and covers so I can polish them up for decoration and install them immediately without having to wait for paint to dry.
For most home-made driveshafts I'd recommend either a 4140 pre-hard round bar or a piece of Stress-Proof bar. You compare the mechanicals on either material to 1018 CRS and either one is about three to four times the strength of OEM.
RICHARD P. - I bought one of those shiny NEW complete steering gearboxes about 8-9 yrs ago. Be really happy the prior owner of Your 129 bought it and not the cheap tierod ends or wheel bearings. That gearbox probably cost as much as You paid for the 129! I bought mine on sale, about 10% off list way back then and it was still almost $300 including tax. I hated to pay that much for a part but the tractor is worthless if You can't steer it and my old gearbox was worn in places VERY hard to repair.
Since You mentioned melting a ceramic insert I'll assume the bar You used was something better, probably a piece of 17-4 PH heat-treated. With those alloys You can get some VERY impressive mechanical properties, for instance 17-4 H-900 has over 200,000 PSI tensile strength. THAT would make a very good driveshaft, for a Hydro. Stainless gauls very badly when used as a bearing surface, which means the sliding clutch plate on a gear drive CC would possibly weld itself to the driveshaft or the clutch pilot bearing eventually would.
I also don't like rust, and use stainless frequently (I have the bit tipped drill bits that won't even drill soft wood to prove it!) but mostly only for small brackets and covers so I can polish them up for decoration and install them immediately without having to wait for paint to dry.
For most home-made driveshafts I'd recommend either a 4140 pre-hard round bar or a piece of Stress-Proof bar. You compare the mechanicals on either material to 1018 CRS and either one is about three to four times the strength of OEM.
RICHARD P. - I bought one of those shiny NEW complete steering gearboxes about 8-9 yrs ago. Be really happy the prior owner of Your 129 bought it and not the cheap tierod ends or wheel bearings. That gearbox probably cost as much as You paid for the 129! I bought mine on sale, about 10% off list way back then and it was still almost $300 including tax. I hated to pay that much for a part but the tractor is worthless if You can't steer it and my old gearbox was worn in places VERY hard to repair.
Brought another one home; (actually the kid did)
I went to a farm sale/estate auction in hopes to bring home hydraulic press that went for about double what I was willing to spend ($450---yow) and they had what appears to be an Original to be sold; K 161S engine, ser no 40723 which appears to be a '63 model (wow; only 30 years older than my kid; even has me beat by about 4 years)
I think the kid overpaid for this basketcase; what do you guys think is fair or reasonable?
Deck completely in pieces, but apparently all there; eng. off, carb off and intake port stuffed with a rag; someone started doing a "quickie" paint job on it;
only real issue I see so far, is a gear case leak that only started when we pulled the park brake to help hold it stationary in the bed of my truck; coming out from the brake lever area.
As far as painting the hood- someone started sanding it down and the original red and blue logo is still there but very faint; is there a decal of that available, should we take a pic and try to get maybe a sign painter to hand letter it back on once we finish stripping/repainting, or is there an easier way that would look authentic?
on the engine; I know about availability of K161 parts; I have here a K 181, that looks like it has a brand new mini block (short block minus crank) that only appears to have the 15 min that I run it on it; (farm sale purchase a few years ago) very fresh crosshatch, absolutely clean valves/ports etc;
I also have an M8 (basically a K 181 with elec ignition) that I have ~$400 into a complete overhaul; not yet done with reassembly on the bench; as far as showing it at a tractor show or the "worth" of this thing, which would be the best way to go??? the K 161 that it came with is all there but was apparently just removed for repaint; I intend to try to get it running as is before looking for rebuild parts via Ebay;
on powering this tractor; should I;
(1) get the orig engine going if it will, and simply do a better repaint on it, and leave it?
(2) dismantle that orig engine and rebuild it as necessary, to make it "as new" again?
(3) put the fresh K181 on it?
(4) put the M8 on it???
Which ever engine winds up on there will be painted original IH yellow.
Also I will need service literature on it so I can see how it gets reassembled; especially on its deck. where do I find?
I went to a farm sale/estate auction in hopes to bring home hydraulic press that went for about double what I was willing to spend ($450---yow) and they had what appears to be an Original to be sold; K 161S engine, ser no 40723 which appears to be a '63 model (wow; only 30 years older than my kid; even has me beat by about 4 years)
I think the kid overpaid for this basketcase; what do you guys think is fair or reasonable?
Deck completely in pieces, but apparently all there; eng. off, carb off and intake port stuffed with a rag; someone started doing a "quickie" paint job on it;
only real issue I see so far, is a gear case leak that only started when we pulled the park brake to help hold it stationary in the bed of my truck; coming out from the brake lever area.
As far as painting the hood- someone started sanding it down and the original red and blue logo is still there but very faint; is there a decal of that available, should we take a pic and try to get maybe a sign painter to hand letter it back on once we finish stripping/repainting, or is there an easier way that would look authentic?
on the engine; I know about availability of K161 parts; I have here a K 181, that looks like it has a brand new mini block (short block minus crank) that only appears to have the 15 min that I run it on it; (farm sale purchase a few years ago) very fresh crosshatch, absolutely clean valves/ports etc;
I also have an M8 (basically a K 181 with elec ignition) that I have ~$400 into a complete overhaul; not yet done with reassembly on the bench; as far as showing it at a tractor show or the "worth" of this thing, which would be the best way to go??? the K 161 that it came with is all there but was apparently just removed for repaint; I intend to try to get it running as is before looking for rebuild parts via Ebay;
on powering this tractor; should I;
(1) get the orig engine going if it will, and simply do a better repaint on it, and leave it?
(2) dismantle that orig engine and rebuild it as necessary, to make it "as new" again?
(3) put the fresh K181 on it?
(4) put the M8 on it???
Which ever engine winds up on there will be painted original IH yellow.
Also I will need service literature on it so I can see how it gets reassembled; especially on its deck. where do I find?
it never stalls when cold. although the exact amount of time has varied by a lot, if i keep it at half throttle it has run for 1 hour, it never stalls when cold.
coil and condenser was replaced. acted same way on old coil and condenser.
carb is new, adjusted according to service manual.i doubt it is carb adjustment because it acted the same way on the old carb.
is there any easy way to check the exhaust valve? some kind of test? if nothing else works, i will replace the exhaust valve, i just hate to take it all apart , again. i doubt the guy who reseated the vales would have missed a bad exhaust valve.
have not tried pulling out choke when it starts to die, i will try that.
does not start right back up after a stall. either takes a few tries, or will start right back up if i choke it.
fuel line was replaced with a new, cub, rubber line. i did not see a metal line offered.
again, thanks for all the help
coil and condenser was replaced. acted same way on old coil and condenser.
carb is new, adjusted according to service manual.i doubt it is carb adjustment because it acted the same way on the old carb.
is there any easy way to check the exhaust valve? some kind of test? if nothing else works, i will replace the exhaust valve, i just hate to take it all apart , again. i doubt the guy who reseated the vales would have missed a bad exhaust valve.
have not tried pulling out choke when it starts to die, i will try that.
does not start right back up after a stall. either takes a few tries, or will start right back up if i choke it.
fuel line was replaced with a new, cub, rubber line. i did not see a metal line offered.
again, thanks for all the help
Guys -
On the steering shaft, I found one of those in an Original! It was black, and correctly configured for an original, but had the later ribbed worm gear casting and a plastic bushing top and not the old style conical/felt bushing top. Someone must've dug out the dollars for that one probably in the 80's sometime during the last years one could get one of those from IH? Or CCC.
On the steering shaft, I found one of those in an Original! It was black, and correctly configured for an original, but had the later ribbed worm gear casting and a plastic bushing top and not the old style conical/felt bushing top. Someone must've dug out the dollars for that one probably in the 80's sometime during the last years one could get one of those from IH? Or CCC.
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