Archive through July 09, 2011

[kide]

Dennis:
ONE S/G belt in 26 years. Like others, I bought two when I replaced it, the second one hangs in the garage. Of all replaceable/consumable parts on any of the S/G equipped Cubs, a spare S/G belt should top the list (unless you like pushing/towing a Cub..)

 

[stanner]

+1 on notched belts

 

[kweaver]

I hate to tell you fellers that buy belts and hang'em up for 90 years ... they've past their shelf life. er hangin' life.

 

[dfrisk]

KEN - The one place I worked we really struggled with the problem of "Shelf LIfe" of v-belts. The companies that made the belts for our suppliers, Motion Industries and another power transmission supplier in the Milw. area all agreed that we could sit on belts seven years and the belts would still give the customer good service. Only problem was how old the belts were when we got them. Every company had a different date coding system.

I had a cheap auto parts store alternator belt for a '77 Pontiac that I carried around in the trunk for 3-4 years that my Father-in-law installed for my wife one afternoon. That new belt made it about a week before it failed too. On the other extreme, I would guess the fan belt on the '51 M was replaced 40 to 45 yrs ago and it still shows no signs of cracking. The belt that amazes me is the serpentine belt on my PSD, it's 15 yrs old, round numbers has 300,000 miles and while I suppose it's technically wore out, there still are NO cracks on the ribbed side of the belt. The new replacement under the seat is over ten yrs old now because the factory belt won't fail! And a discussion over on TDS says the cooling fan can pull up to 27 HP to just turn the fan, plus whatever the water pump, 135A alternator, A/C compressor and vacuum & P/S pump take to run. I suspect that could total 40 HP at times.

On the S/G belts, I used to buy them at Farm & Fleet, but the two I have are IH belts. I like them to slip a little if the engine stops @ TDC when starting, prevents stalling the starter and it's less stress on the S/G bearings.

GERRY - I agree, I've NEVER tried to rope start or pull start a CC, which I would think only would work with a GD, not sure how a hydro would like that. After running them for what will soon be 50 yrs, I don't want to start trying that now. When the S/G belt starts throwing chunks replace it and buy another one next trip to the dealer or parts order.

 

[mschairer]

Well, Junior's in Vermont for a few weeks, so SEAT TIME on CCO 4740 today. Engine got extremely hot after 1/2 hours of cutting, when investigating, oil was low about 1/2 quart. (I guess Junior hasn't been checking it). Would this have caused the running hot?

Mark

 

[lpalma]

Frank C.
I do believe it was 2009 that I saw you there.Too bad your deck is so quiet.What happened to the covers?

 

[digger]

So I was wondering today why no one has mentioned Hank's updated book yet.

 

[jchamberlin]

Charlie: I didn't mention because I didn't know anything about it. Do you have it for sale? I would consider buying a copy.

 

[dfrisk]

CHARLIE - What part of the WORLD is Hank & Hydro-Gal in now days?

 

[dbell]

I have a Cub Cadet 102 with front rusty wheels. I was wondering which would be the cheaper route to go. Pay carquest to do the rust removal then repaint them at home and replace the wheel bearings or buy new ones that would cost $100 bucks plus shipping.

 

[digger]

Denny,
Wichita Kansas.
He's doing great things with/for Grit magazine.

Under Edit,
Hank is on his own. Kate decided that it was time for a change.

 

[digger]

David B.
Find someone in your area that does sand blasting. You might be surprised how cheap they would do it, and paint them yourself.

 

[krichards]

I have a 1450 hydro Cub cadet. I bought it used. I wish to check the hydro fluid level and see if it needs changing. Can someone please point me in the right direction for how to check the level and perform a fluid change with filter change? I HAVE looked at the FAQ's and found nothing. thanks
Kevin

 

[digger]

You missed the good stuff.
http://cubfaq.com/questions.html
65. How do I check the fluid level for my transmission?

 

[proessler]

Kevin goto CC Parts Lookup above. then clic on Cub Cadet near left on web page. Then clic on Manuals-- 1450 Manual--Page 32 Lube Table, page 33 filter, Page 37/38 Pic...& Charlie's quicker w/ FAQ's

 

[klorenz]

Charlie,
Do you have copies of Hank's book for sale or are they available online? I would sure like to get a copy.

 

[rrschmitt]

Charlie,

Has Hank moved? Last I knew, I thought he was living in the Topeka, KS area as that is where Grit Magazine is headquartered. I know he's somewhere here in Oz.

 

[rfuller]

Would anyone have a drawing for the shaft that goes into the rock shaft of the sleeve hitch 3 pt for a 1650? My nephew would like to make one, when he returns back to school.

TIA,

Rob

 

[lbuttke]

Rob
I belive it is just a 8 inch pice of 1inch round stock with a hole for the cotter pin on one end and a hole on the other the same size as the pin used in the lift straps.

 

[nbextermueller]

this is just a random post, but i've never been so happy with my 782.

For 4 years I haven't been able to figure out why it won't charge itself. I've had to change the PTO switch, the reg/rec, the battery, re wire things... Nothing. Till the other day I was mowing on a freshly charged battery and noticed that sticker on the cover plate between my legs said that the key switch was suppose to control the lights. But mine didn't it only had Off/Run/Start. So I got the key switch off my 782 parts tractor and yep... I had Off/Run-Lights/Run/Start. Both had 5 prongs and looked identical except the correct one had a little strap across the base of 2 of the prongs.

I swapped it out, fired it up and the amp gauge near pegged on the big C. I was so happy I mowed the grass twice.

I love my Cubbie!!!