Archive through July 09, 2007

[jlang]

Jim T. I sold a whole bunch of those SGT wide rear rims you need to guys on here. Don't have any left now. One pair of guys bought lots of them from me and I bet they have some left. They know who they are, but I don't know if they want to sell any of them.

I'd consider using the big new Firestone TriRib on the front if you are putting a loader on it. That will level out the tractor like you want to and make steering easier.

Get them from Miller tire, but they are pricey.

 

[rrschmitt]

Darren S,

Congrats on your 125 and welcome. Changing the Hydro oil on a unit that has been setting for a while is a good idea. Be sure to check out the "Frequently Asked Questions" link near the top of the web page, especially #26. You must use the correct oil for a hydro. HyTran Ultra is recommended. If you have a nearby Case IH dealer you can get two gallons there as well as the rear transmission cover plate gasket. No time like the present to clean off the dirt and crud before you change Hydro oil as well.

Also change the engine oil if you haven't already and grease all zerk fittings (including the one on front axle pivot shaft underneath the engine on the right and the hard to find one on steering box).

 

[dsterley]

Thanks Ron
ive allready done the grease and oil and air filter is there any were other the a case IH dealer\store that would sell the Hy-tran oil that you ore any body would know of? theres not a case dealer around me thanks in advance

 

[digger]

Darren S.
I went to the Case/IH home page and found 5 close to ya.
http://tinyurl.com/2yey9v

 

[dsterley]

Thanks Charlie
i didnt think about the case web site
thanks for looking

 

[rtunison]

Today was the day for the 129's annual major tune up and hydro fluid/filter changing and I wanted to relate some observations.
First is I just love these little tractors!!
Second, The PointSaver and coil from David Kirk is a must have component for these Kohlers in my opinion to eliminate some problems inherent with these motors and enhance performance and ease of service.
I purchased and installed his kit 3 yrs. ago and when I pulled the points cover to adjust the timing which did need tweeked, the points look like brand new.... shiney even. Follow the instructions that come with the Pointsaver to set your timing darn close with the LED, even with worn parts. I checked my work with a timing light and the sp mark was almost dead center.

MMO. Mystery juice. Good stuff. Pulled the head and shouldn't have. Nothing leaking and internals looked like they should. Zero carbon build up and free floating valve stems. Exhaust smells good too.

Found a few other little things while inspecting everything and fixed those also with the box of goodies purchased from Madsons and others.

 

[fmorski]

KEN:
Tried to talk him out of the cab. By the way, it is for a "Hustler", not what I said earlier.

Got the 268, paid too much for it, but made up for that when he sold me the 782 that needs a PTO seal for peanuts.

I stole the 782 so that makes for paying to much for the 268 snow blower. When he told me the price he wanted, I whipped out the money and paid him post haste. I did not want him to change his mind. Even if it is Yellow & White...It has a good KT17 that has a remote filter so I can use it in my red 782 that has a small hole in the block.

Digger:
Now I am going to have to find the other model so I can keep up with the Jones'.

 

[jegstad]

I need help in finding some exhaust tubing short radius bends for 7/8 OD pipe. Does anyone have a possible source that won't break my wallet? This is for a custom cub.

TIA

JimE

 

[wcompton]

Jim-
Here's where I bought my stainless-
http://www.bassani.com/universal/tubing/

They had 7/8" last time I looked.

 

[kide]

Jim: McMaster Carr has 304L Stainless Butt-weld pipe fittings (schedule 10) in their catalog (page 11 in mine). Search on PN 45735K211, 214 or 213 for the size range you are looking for.. I'm going to use these for the turns on my Vanguard/Cushman Eagle project..

 

[dsauve]

After running hy-gard in the 1250 (I know I know) the switch over to hytrans I noticed a difference right away. Stuff isn't cheap but well worth it.

 

[ddevoe]

Hi all got some newby questions. Even tho I have 2 Cubs, a 1250 and a 2000 model there are a lot of references here that I don't understand;
Whats a "mule drive" whats the difference between a narrow frame and a wide one (besides the obvious) and how do I interpret the big number on the chassis of my 1250? It has 13 numbers and the letter U. How can I find out what implements will work on my 1250? Thanks for any and all info. It will be greatly appreciated.
Dave

 

[ddevoe]

Whoops, my bad on the serial number question. Should have read the FAQs first as suggested. Humbly reading them now.
Dave

 

[dsauve]

David welcome to the group

1)the mule drive is a set of sheaves on a frame that mounts to the front of the tractor frame that routs the pto drive belt from vertical to horizontal to power mowers and rear pto units

2&3 ) I'll leave these up to more knowledgable members.

4)In the Parts look up above punch in the model of the tractor and click on attatchment and that will give you a pretty good idea and the gang will fill the rest.

 

[cbusch]

I was looking at my tiller tractor and I was thinking, couldn't I make/modify a sleeve hitch to mount to the tiller mount points? I know most folks put studs in to make the gear box easier to come on/off, but from looking at it, it looks unnecessary.

Have others tried this?

 

[mgonitzke]

I was going to do just that until I built my 582 to replace my 128 as the plow tractor. Now the 128 just tills. I have heard of that being done before.

 

[dmerkle]

Chris B.
You will need to add 2-3 inches to sleeve hitch and upper lift point.

One good advantage to leaving tiller drive on is you have support on both sides of your sleeve hitch. I have little to no ground clearance problems leaving tiller drive on.

 

[jegstad]

Kendall, Wyatt,

Thanks guys. I'll try a sample from each.

 

[jhangartner]

Here is how I extended mine. I added 3" or so to the lift rod.

I added 2.5" to the end of the adaptor and added a cross brace. Fits great and works well. At PD 13 I got hung up twice from bean stubble I think due to the tiller plate hanging down a little lower, but that can happen on a regular hitch too.

 

[rbedell]

David D:

The Big Serial number breaks down like this:

xxxxxx U xxxxxx

The first six is the Kind Code, identifying the model and features.

The "U" means it was made in the United States.

The last six is the sequential Serial Number.

Here is the differences between the NF & WF: