Archive through July 07, 2015

[lpalma]

Jeremiah,

Here are a few pics of the red wire on my 123 serial #188xxx and my 122 serial #1464xx
as you can see there is a red wire connecting to where I indicated in my last post.I see from your picture you have a red wire also,hopes this clears things up.

 

[snicklas]

Wayne,

We used a welded axle on Dad's 149 for decades. It broke back in the mid 80's in a similar location. I know why this happens, and I will touch on that in a minute... He took the axle to work, and one of the welders in the shop welded it for him. Not sure the process he used, but he welded 8+ hours a day 5 days a week. It held and worked just fine. He was doing other work on the tractor and had the axle loose (doing the bolt mod I believe, and he had a better axle from a parts tractor, so he swapped it, along with switching to wide front tires. (His 149 was an "oddball" that it had narrow (4.80x8) front tires on it, had the 23x10.50x12 on the back). He still has the welded axle and it could be used if needed.

Now, for the reason they seem to break in this area (or my theory anyway). If the belts on the mule drive get out of adjustment, or if a part fails like the adjuster bolt, or the belt is too short, the mule drive pulley(s) will be pulled into the front axle and start to grind a V into the axle. I've seen a few that are pretty thin on the mule drive side of the axle. I had this happen the first mowing of the year, the adjuster bolt came loose and the pulley ended up rubbing the axle. I heard it, and fixed it quickly, so no real damage done. On Dad's axle that broke, you could see the V in the axle, and that is exactly where the axle broke. This issue was addressed in the 82 series as the mule drive sits about an inch forward of where it does on a wideframe. On a wideframe mule drive, it uses the rod the pulleys mount to, to attach to the QD hooks on the frame. On an 82 series mule drive, there are 2 pins welded in the mule drive about an inch or so behind the rod for the pulleys. I figured this out when I tried to use an 82 series mule drive on a 1450 and the belt would not fit, because it was about 2 inches short, due to the position of the pulleys in relation to the angle drive for the tiller.

 

[sblunier]

Scott,

I agree. Cast iron is not very tolerant of stress risers ("V" notch from pulley) and a notch in the web makes for a very high stress location in a reasonably brittle material.

 

[aschumacher]

Scott and Steve, I've been hanging around here for a bunch of years and remember a way back this subject was addressed. Maybe Charlie or Kraig can remember where to find the articles as there were a number of photos showing the notches as you describe.

 

[jpatchett]

John N.

The PTO hub and disc separate near the key, see drawing in service manual FESM-9065. I would apply some heat to the drive disc, this will increase the ID of the bore and free it from the drive hub. You don't need this red hot, 500 deg. F. is good. The use of a propane torch is enough, apply flame for 30-40 seconds, pack a wet rag in the bore of the drive hub. This will protect the bearing from overheating. If you plan to replace the bearing, than skip that wet rag.

Jim

 

[jpatchett]

Wayne,

A weld may look good on the surface, but is it free of voids? The only person who could answer that is the person who welded it. Did the welder grind the joining surfaces to 45 deg, ie was there a V grove created for the weld bead?

When I got my 149 the axle was welded the same, got a good used one from evil pay. It was actually from a quiteline, the wheel camber is different I believe.

Jim

 

[kmcconaughey]

Wide Frame axle on top, Narrow Frame axle on bottom. Both of these were in my collection at one point. The Wide Frame axle went to Art Aytay to replace a broken axle on one of his Wide Frame Cubs. I do not recall ever hearing of a narrow frame axle breaking...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Why does it seem to be that the most common axle that breaks is from a 1x8/9 wide frame? Did IH have a bad batch of castings in that era? I took this photo at an IH dealer in Wisconsin back in 2002.

 

[wshytle]

I appreciate all of the input about the welded axle. I think I've decided to just use it. I've also had to do some major work getting the axle channel back in order. The pin was almost out of the rear collar and caused needless wear. It had quite a spread in the middle too.


Maybe I'll eventually post a few pics of this build. I'm doing everything but the painting and I'm leaning more towards doing that. I started out building another worker for the garden and it has turned into a major project...but that's what it's all about in the first place. I can't stand to install rusty parts so I gutted the dash and cleaned all of the small parts like the shifter linkage. As one thing leads to another I end up totally redoing the tractor. When I finish this one another one will take it's place. I just acquired another 169 which is in buckets for the most part...completely disassembled. The K341 has a fresh rebuild though.

.

 

[sblunier]

Narrow frame axles break too.......so do Super Steer axles........

I think the spring loaded belt tensioners of the later units tend to allow more axle damage over time.

Cutting the "flange" of the I beam axle with a notch at that spot leaves it open to damage from a frontal impact to a tire....like hitting a retaining wall when mowing, etc........then snap!

 

[jpatchett]

Steve,

I concur. The owner likely did not keep the belt in correct adjustment, as long as the mower was cutting grass.

Jim

 

[mgwin]

Lewis,

Thank you, I was beginning to think I had lost what little bit of brains I had. The two red wires were connected exactly where you said, and also shown in the pics.

Jeremiah,

Sorry, I may have misled you. The red wire at the V/R was attached to the bottom mounting screw, and not onto the V/R.
This is my dad's 122.
If I am correct, this 122 was manufactured approximately during the third hour of work on Monday, the sixth day of March, 1967! This would have been in the latter stages of 122 production.

Thanks, everyone for the help.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Wayne S. Did you peen the axle as you were welding it? What kid of rod did you use? E7018?

Some videos on how to weld cast iron. E7018 Rod and scroll through THESE.

I have an axle from a 104 that originally had a loader on it. The whole axle has been re-enforced with regualr steel welded to it. I'll have to dig to find it and take some pictures of it. Fancy's 1650 previous owners took horrible care of that tractor. I simply bought another axle the front was cut so bad by the pulleys. Over the years I've seen a lot of Cub Cadets with those pulley gouges. I've a few ready to go to the salvage yard unless someone wants to "practice" their welding skills. They can have them if they pay the shipping.

 

[wshytle]

Marlin-

This isn't a repair I made...it's a repair I discovered. I haven't gotten to welding cast yet. I've got a couple of those V notched axles myself. It seems a brazing would fill those gouges just fine but the heat may be a problem. I know cast can be welded because I probably have several pounds on a weld repair on my Ford 4000s rear end. It was a state owned mowing tractor (the 60s) and probably fixed on the side of the road.

Thanx

.

 

[mfrade]

Wayne S., I wouldn't worry about those welds. You were not there when it was welded, so it's any ones guess how it was done. If it does break, the weld won't give but just alongside it may.

On the "V's", they can be brazed successfully and if you do the repair, have some warm dry sand, (mason sand works well) at the ready. Once you've finished your brazing, bury the axle into the sand and allow it to cool. Might take 10 or 12 hours depending on the heat application.

Cooling cast iron is best done very slowly to allow the stresses to work their way out. HTH.

 

[jharvey]

One broken axle = two boat anchors......

 

[elamott]

129 question

The attached pic (if it works) is the drive rod that connects the engine to hydro. I have 2 questions.
I am assume that the pin should extend out of both sides of shaft. Mine is only on one side and should be replaced.
Can this pin be purchased at a hardware store
Thank for any comments
Earl

 

[mgonitzke]

Earl-

The pin is supposed to be on both sides. Yours is broken. You will need to get it from a Cub Cadet dealer or one of the forum sponsors.

Your coupling is also extremely worn and needs to be welded up or replaced.

 

[lpalma]

Earl,
you also should get a flywheel screen too.I see it is missing.

 

[jchamberlin]

Lewis & Marty, I finally got off my duff and went out to my 122 (which is in pieces) and found my red wire:

Lewis, I think you are correct, the 122 Wiring Diagram is wrong, but . . .

I also think we're asking more out of the schematic than it really wants to give.

I'm not sure, but I think what we're dealing with here is the sometimes subtle differences between a wiring schematic and a wiring diagram. As one of the textbooks I use states it, to the best of my memory, a wiring schematic is keen to show the logical relationship between components; where a wiring diagram is keen to show you their physical location.

So, for example, the logical relationship of the voltage regulator case to ground is shown in the SCHEMATIC for the Cub Cadet 1x2/3:

12

Whereas, the diagram for the 1x4/5 shows how that ground connection is made, more along the lines of a proper wiring DIAGRAM:

The change in style may have been made to clear up questions just like Marty's. A true wiring diagram would distinguish between connections made at the frame or in the cowl; in the engine bay or the battery compartment, etc.

So I no longer believe the Serial Numbers are relevant (although I wonder how you can so precisely date yours, Marty

), I think we're just dealing with different ways of interpreting, and rendering, the same data.

Lewis, I especially appreciate your input, got me looking a little closer and thinking a little bit more.

In an unrelated matter,
Scott Nicklas: Excellent post, as Mr. Blunier confirmed.

Edit: One of the strength's of Roland Bedell's renderings is that they lean a bit more toward the diagram end of the spectrum. You can clearly divide his drawings between the rear, middle, and front of the tractor.