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Archive through July 05, 2009
- Thread starter fyates
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Got some YELLOW sprayed today...I now have blisters on my fingers from the paint gun, and my hands have a yellow tinge.
Yellow covers like crap. I'm gonna have to get another pint. I'm still really liking this PPG Shop Line paint. It looks really good to me.
I have most of the engine to prime and paint yet, and all of the white, but it's getting there. Hopefully It'll be done by RPRU.
Yellow covers like crap. I'm gonna have to get another pint. I'm still really liking this PPG Shop Line paint. It looks really good to me.
I have most of the engine to prime and paint yet, and all of the white, but it's getting there. Hopefully It'll be done by RPRU.
Luther H
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
The shifter or creeper handle doesn't move but it jumps in and out of gear. Does that sound like a creeper problem or a transmission shifter problem. Any advise will be appreciated.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Creeper problem, and probably due to a worn shifting yoke}.
Something else to keep in mind when adding a creeper to a tractor, if a creeper from a wide frame is used in a narrow frame (or vice versa) without changing the shift lever, the lever will hit the end of the slot in the frame tunnel, and will also rub on the side of the slot, and not allow the creeper to fully engage the gear range, unless the shift lever is heated and reshaped. Because of the shape/design of the frame tunnel between the narrow frame and wide frame tractors, the shift lever is "indexed" differently between the two. The creepers are the same, but the shift levers are different, but can be interchanged.
<font size="-2">why does the font size change if a "quote" is used?</font>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
The shifter or creeper handle doesn't move but it jumps in and out of gear. Does that sound like a creeper problem or a transmission shifter problem. Any advise will be appreciated.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Creeper problem, and probably due to a worn shifting yoke}.
Something else to keep in mind when adding a creeper to a tractor, if a creeper from a wide frame is used in a narrow frame (or vice versa) without changing the shift lever, the lever will hit the end of the slot in the frame tunnel, and will also rub on the side of the slot, and not allow the creeper to fully engage the gear range, unless the shift lever is heated and reshaped. Because of the shape/design of the frame tunnel between the narrow frame and wide frame tractors, the shift lever is "indexed" differently between the two. The creepers are the same, but the shift levers are different, but can be interchanged.
<font size="-2">why does the font size change if a "quote" is used?</font>
MATT - You got about THREE Weeks till RPRU, I think You'll make it!
Have I ever mentioned how much I hate ONAN engines? No wonder they went out of business and had to be bailed out by Cummins! 982 started running like poo-poo about mid-week. I've been using it daily hauling stuff in the dumnp cart doing landscaping in the front yard. We get 12 cu. yards of mulch Thursday AM and I fire up the 982 to drop off stuff in the cart around the yard so I can get some serious mulch hauling done. The Onan is popping & sputtering and won't pull. I figure the ignition points are dirty & oily like happened a couple years ago, ONAN did a terrible job designing where they mount on the top front of the engine and operate in hot oily conditions, TERRIBLE design! They were dirty, and the points cover is a PITA to replace with the air filter installed. Tried to refire the engine and NO spark at all. So I hauled mulch with the Super H, it's faster & easier anyhow. Went out yesterday and removed the air filter so I could really see what was going on with the points. They're designed like GM Delco points with an adjusting screw to set gap. For some reason they totally closed up, no opening to make a spark. And the OTHER stupid thing ONAN did was not put ANY timing marks anywhere to check timing.
At least the new 6.4 L Ford Powerstroke engines being built at ONAN's old Huntsville, AL plant is a MUCH better designed engine than the opposed twin ONAN built there. I can't believe ONAN was the most popular engine for portable welders & generators.
Have I ever mentioned how much I hate ONAN engines? No wonder they went out of business and had to be bailed out by Cummins! 982 started running like poo-poo about mid-week. I've been using it daily hauling stuff in the dumnp cart doing landscaping in the front yard. We get 12 cu. yards of mulch Thursday AM and I fire up the 982 to drop off stuff in the cart around the yard so I can get some serious mulch hauling done. The Onan is popping & sputtering and won't pull. I figure the ignition points are dirty & oily like happened a couple years ago, ONAN did a terrible job designing where they mount on the top front of the engine and operate in hot oily conditions, TERRIBLE design! They were dirty, and the points cover is a PITA to replace with the air filter installed. Tried to refire the engine and NO spark at all. So I hauled mulch with the Super H, it's faster & easier anyhow. Went out yesterday and removed the air filter so I could really see what was going on with the points. They're designed like GM Delco points with an adjusting screw to set gap. For some reason they totally closed up, no opening to make a spark. And the OTHER stupid thing ONAN did was not put ANY timing marks anywhere to check timing.
At least the new 6.4 L Ford Powerstroke engines being built at ONAN's old Huntsville, AL plant is a MUCH better designed engine than the opposed twin ONAN built there. I can't believe ONAN was the most popular engine for portable welders & generators.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Almost forgot...we were discussing neoprene gaskets earlier...here's one I made for the 100.
I also made one for the shifter.
I also made one for the shifter.
Hope everyone had a safe and fun 4th.
Denny, the Onan in my Allis Chalmers 620 does the same thing, over time the points close up and get all covered in oil, stupid design. At least mine has timing marks, but I think they may have been added by AC.
Matt, very nice progress!
Frank Y., good looking 100!
Denny, the Onan in my Allis Chalmers 620 does the same thing, over time the points close up and get all covered in oil, stupid design. At least mine has timing marks, but I think they may have been added by AC.
Matt, very nice progress!
Frank Y., good looking 100!
jdiederichs
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2004
- Messages
- 659
- displayname
- Jim Diederichs
Hi guys! I have a question for you about my Johnson loader on my Cub Cadet....I need to repack the hydraulic cylinders and need a good source to get the O rings and especially the back up rings.
Has anyone else done this? Where did you get the parts. These cylinders are simple to rebuild IF you have the correct parts, that is where I need your helpful suggestions.Thanks!!
Has anyone else done this? Where did you get the parts. These cylinders are simple to rebuild IF you have the correct parts, that is where I need your helpful suggestions.Thanks!!
Hi Everyone,
Matt G. - The paint is coming along nicely. What source do you use for the yellow paint; is it IH?
Everyone else (and Matt too) - I need a blow-up of the drive train to get a clutch back properly for a 128. I've found the clutch assembly together in several pictures but need one showing the order of all of the conponents. It's only been about 20 years since I last did this clutch and I didn't have my trusty digital camera when I took it apart here recently. All help appreciated!
Matt G. - The paint is coming along nicely. What source do you use for the yellow paint; is it IH?
Everyone else (and Matt too) - I need a blow-up of the drive train to get a clutch back properly for a 128. I've found the clutch assembly together in several pictures but need one showing the order of all of the conponents. It's only been about 20 years since I last did this clutch and I didn't have my trusty digital camera when I took it apart here recently. All help appreciated!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Wayne-
Click the "parts lookup" button that's in there with the sponsor buttons, put in "128", click search, select it from the list, click "clutch" or whatever it's listed under on the right, and there's your picture. You can even right-click on it and save it.
Otherwise, from front to back, the order is:
Pinned pressure plate, clutch disc, sliding pressure plate, teaser spring, teaser spring spacer (if equipped), release arm, throwout bearing, main spring, washer.
Paint is PPG "Shop Line" in IH 483 Yellow that I bought locally.
Click the "parts lookup" button that's in there with the sponsor buttons, put in "128", click search, select it from the list, click "clutch" or whatever it's listed under on the right, and there's your picture. You can even right-click on it and save it.
Otherwise, from front to back, the order is:
Pinned pressure plate, clutch disc, sliding pressure plate, teaser spring, teaser spring spacer (if equipped), release arm, throwout bearing, main spring, washer.
Paint is PPG "Shop Line" in IH 483 Yellow that I bought locally.
KRAIG - I've never really ever heard anyone else complain about ONAN engines, I know those other lawn tractors built up in Horicon used a lot of them. A set of points in a K-series Kohler even without Dave's Points Saver is almost a Life-time part. The K241 I had in the 72 for so long had new points when I rebuilt it before installation and I only remember replacing them two-three times.
The ONAN in the 982 was rebuilt just before I got it and a new hour meter installed. It says 245 hours on it right now. The little potmetal plate the points mount on is a nice idea but they really needed to seal that plate from the crankcase to keep oil vapor out.
The ONAN in the 982 was rebuilt just before I got it and a new hour meter installed. It says 245 hours on it right now. The little potmetal plate the points mount on is a nice idea but they really needed to seal that plate from the crankcase to keep oil vapor out.
Made some good progress the last couple of days with the 102. After hours of work, I got the top of the hood filled and sanded, and the bottom of the hood primed. Waiting on getting the wheels back from the sandblaster to prime the "white" parts, including the top side of the hood. Painted the bottom with red oxide primer for rust prevention, I may leave that as-is. The top is going to get at least a couple of coats of primer, wet sanded before I put down the finish coats.
I also did some work installing some of the accessories on the engine, such as the PTO, clutch drive plate and the gas tank saddle, which let me button the engine up and torque the head bolts. I discovered that I had a lot of small parts, such as small brackets, PTO linkage parts, etc. that needed to be painted. At first I just dipped them in the paint, and hung them on the drying rack, but I decided to go ahead and finish sanding down the chassis and mixed up the yellow with the hardener, and got what I hope to be the finish coat down. It doesn't look bad, a couple of sags, and undoubtedly an insect or two will land and get stuck, but overall it looks pretty good. Now if the rain gods will stay away...
I got the hood filled and wet sanded, and the underside rough sanded and primed with red oxide primer. I'm waiting on the wheels to get back from the sandblaster, which I hope will be later today, and hopefully at least get them primed along with the top of the hood. Here are a few pics of what I have going.
I also did some work installing some of the accessories on the engine, such as the PTO, clutch drive plate and the gas tank saddle, which let me button the engine up and torque the head bolts. I discovered that I had a lot of small parts, such as small brackets, PTO linkage parts, etc. that needed to be painted. At first I just dipped them in the paint, and hung them on the drying rack, but I decided to go ahead and finish sanding down the chassis and mixed up the yellow with the hardener, and got what I hope to be the finish coat down. It doesn't look bad, a couple of sags, and undoubtedly an insect or two will land and get stuck, but overall it looks pretty good. Now if the rain gods will stay away...
I got the hood filled and wet sanded, and the underside rough sanded and primed with red oxide primer. I'm waiting on the wheels to get back from the sandblaster, which I hope will be later today, and hopefully at least get them primed along with the top of the hood. Here are a few pics of what I have going.
Richard,
The points cover is a PITA. There is a hole in the frame on my 129 to allow the screw to be inserted supposedly without having to loosen the engine or do gymnastics to get it in, but I always end up dropping the screw. Perhaps an Allen Head would be better there.
The points cover is a PITA. There is a hole in the frame on my 129 to allow the screw to be inserted supposedly without having to loosen the engine or do gymnastics to get it in, but I always end up dropping the screw. Perhaps an Allen Head would be better there.
Bruce, looking good!
Allen head screws are the only way to go for the points cover.
Allen head screws are the only way to go for the points cover.
Terry, well actually David Kirk is right, he put those Allen head screws on Killer when he rebuilt it for me.
I got my carburator back from my uncle today, it has been soaking for about 3 months. He was going to rebuild it for me but had a stroke a few weeks after I gave it to him and he never got back to it, and understandably so. I am having trouble getting the screw out, the one that is in the middle where the main needle comes down through from the top. I have posted this pic so I can explain it in less than a paragraph!
It is in there pretty good and I dont want to screw it up!
It is in there pretty good and I dont want to screw it up!
