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Archive through July 02, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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HH-

The slightly-off-topic 1282 uses a fuel pump because the bottom 1/4 of the tank is below the carb. I'm putting a K321 into a 682 (pics later) and I'll have to add a fuel pump.


Allen-

If the toe in is set correctly, the wheels will re-center (mostly) if you let go of the steering wheel during a turn. I just went through the steering column on my 782D, put in one new bearing, adjusted everything, put on new Heim joints, tightened the slop in the front axle, installed the 'super steer' thrust bearing, and adjusted the toe-in. It does make a huge difference. The 100 I went through last summer had all of the same things done to it, and I could steer that with one finger.

Ned-

I'm planning on designing a foot control for this 682 I'm working on, as it will have a loader on it, and I don't have three right hands...
happy.gif


Gerry-

Tons of newer machines have vacuum fuel pumps...I have 2 or 3 in my fuel pump box.
 
I can't find the serial number on this beast so I can't tell you that. I can tell you that there are NO QA latches on the tractors, but there are pins on the QA mount.
 
Allen S - sorry but there are no "QA" latches on a 102. IH didn't add those until the 1x4/5 series (although I had heard some late production 123s may have had them but never saw one).

Marty G - you know I had forgotten all about my tri-color engine (since my 169 is in a resting place). I painted the basic block in black, but did the points cover and breather cover in IH yellow. I don't have a working camera so I blew up an old pic and you can just barely see them. The other thing I did, although not shown well, is paint the governor spring, connectors, throttle and choke clamps, coil mount bracket, in silver/gray, so they appear just like the head. Gives it that really nice look that everything was taken apart and done correctly. The carb remains un-painted (lightly wire brushed and worked over to remove all previous paint). Here's a couple pics where you can see some of what I'm saying.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and they love sharply painted features)
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L. Rehm - ok, well get out your scribe and add 65457 so we know why it won't work (at least at this point). I JUST CANNOT TAKE THIS!!!!! Where is KRAIG with the PHOTOS!!!!! I'm dying on the west coast - (give me another PBR, and if you ain't got one, well Schlitz will do, and if you ain't got one of those, well, ok, just give me a Hamm's - from the land of sky blue waters).

(Matt G and Gerry I under edit - alot of the newer machines have the fuel tank under the seats and need a fuel pump)

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (Caution - do not operate when consuming 12oz tools)
 
is a 125 a narrow frame or wide frame. i have a 106 and looking for snow plow and a friend as one off a 125. just wanting to know.
thanks
allen
 
Allen:
Cubfaq 35....

Matt and Harry:
Wasn't sure how many Kohler singles used the vacuum type fuel pump. They draw the signal off the intake after the carb??
 
thanks
jeff & gerry

is the 106 a good machine. i pick it up about 2 months ago. had to rebuilt steering and pto. runs and mows great in good condition.
 
Had a good safe day at the parade untill the very end my clutch brake went out I barly made it on the trailer and the govoner is acting up again so the mony pit just opend up.
 
Lucas, mabey I missed it, what fixed your govenor?
 
Gerry-

I'm not sure any Kohler singles did (or at least K-series), but the 'cyclops' Cub Cadets with the Magnum 18 twin had a vacuum pump using crankcase vacuum. There was basically a plate that bolted where the mechanical fuel pump (or blockoff plate) would go on the engine, and it had a steel fitting for a 1/4" rubber vacuum hose.

To make this more on topic, I came in from the garage because I can't get the steering wheel off the 682...despite the fact that this thing doesn't appear to have spent a night of its life outside (even the footrest screws came out easily) I can't budge the steering wheel. There's no visible corrosion, and my legs hurt from using the FAQ hammer, nut, and bolt method. This is the first time I've had that fail me before, so now it's soaking in PB blaster. Hopefully I can get that off soon so I can rebuild the steering column.
 
Lucas Jones


The most important part of useing equipment is maintence,If Charlie wants to
poof.gif
my reply , sory but (I) have found that if you do regular maint and Chage oil, a cub won`t let you down. A money pit (no) anything can be I know.




You need a new govener or the pinch bolt has
sliped but I think the govener is TOAST. Replace ]

it and move on to a stress free run. I have lol

Where is Kun TuckKen ?
cause he got it down as to how to put them in there place! ( fishing)?
 
Matt:
If you've got a "muffler gun", try a blunt impact tool in it and just buzz the end of the shaft (I like to have a nut partially threaded to protect the shaft threads. This has worked for me on several stubborn bolts/ nuts on studs. Use a little of your favorite miracle penetrating oil, buzz it, wait a while, buzz it again and try the wheel in between...

I'll put a vacuum gauge on the 301 and see if I can see enough "flutter" to use a pump on it..
 
Don t, yes I will replace the govoner and I maintain things WELL I dont know about the po's

Dave I took the gov shaft ad turned it to the left and moved the arm to the left that helped some.

I plan to rebuild the brake completely replace the clutch and rebuild parts of the engin before it starts again.
 
Lucas

PO ?

what I buy I do the math on, I go over them and well I might just over fix.Cub and every brand did improve what they made.I just use newer teck on older machines.
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A few days ago I got a 1450. At some point a previous owner replaced the forward-reverse speed control and implement lift knobs as you can see on the photos. Maybe a previous owner had a handicap or was arthritic? Anyway, I'll get the proper round knob and cylinder shaped grip, and remove the homemade aluminum brace. The implement lift arm is 3 inches from the tower and and angles outward. That got me wondering if this arm is for use with dual hydro?

A previous owner also cut a hole to access the valve lever assembly that connect the implement lift arm to the hydro valve. Rather than accessing the lever from the gas tank side he opted to cut a hole in the tower. The only reason I can see why to do this is because this lever is held in place by a spirol pin, and from the gas tank side it's not easy to reach the spirol pin.

The Parts Lookup shows a J-shaped valve lever (part #4 or #19) which is held in place by a bolt and nut. That's not what I have, mine has a spirol pin. I've never before explored the inner workings of the tower, so I don't know if the lever I have is custom made or a real CC part that was later changed.

So is the 3 inch measure correct for a single hydro, or do I have the wrong implement lift arm?
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<center><table border=1><tr><td>
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parts listing and photos
Hydro lift controls.pdf (89.4 k)</td></tr></table></center>
 
Marty G - there was one other thing, the governor shaft itself (stem), it was left bright brass 10 years ago, but I just looked and it's not so bright now. The governor arm clamped to it is black. As for being in a resting place, it's in my garage covered with a padded shipping blanket with cardboard boxes stacked around it. That way my wife doesn't realize I still have it (hardly). I've taken it to the annual Great Oregon Steam-up show 4 times, and won a ribbon each time. Other than that and an occassional run up and down the street she don't get used. There were a couple guys out this way that were Cub nuts but seemed to have disappeared now - otherwise most people don't even know what it is.

Hey Charlie thanks for posting the pics of a non-QA tractor with the QA42. Not sure I see anything that helps resolve how to connect an "A" thrower to a non-QA tractor, but the more we can see these units the better.
By the way, that is a nice looking 122 with the QA42 attached.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and they do require work unless you don't use them)
 

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