• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through July 02, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Michael
They both work good and last a long time. If you didn't look under the tractor you probably wouldn't know which one you had, if they were set up correctly.
 
CHARLIE - I don't think so..... I'll try calling Him later.
 
Pierre G:

There are those warning labels, then there is this:

29044.jpg


clappy.gif
 
Roland,
I found out why you should NOT travel at 30 M.P.H. through a field too! LOL
But that's not the first time the ole 1450 has been pulled at high speed either!
biggrin.gif
 
Michael,

In my humble opinion, the external dual disc brakes are preferable to the internal brake. The latter works on the transmission input shaft that effectively brakes the differential carrier. This means that both rear wheels are still free to rotate in opposite directions when the brake is applied. Under certain situations, as decending a wet grassy hill with tractor tilted to one side, application of the internal brake results in one wheel rotating normally with the other rotating BACKWARDS (slipping) with absolutely no reduction in forward speed! With dual wheel brakes (assuming proper adjustment), both wheels will brake evenly thus properly slowing the tractor.

IH obviously went to the internal brake because it was less expensive. It eliminated two caliper and disc assemblies, fasteners, and a more complicated linkage. For most situations, they work identically. But the external disc setup is preferred by me.
 
Charlie,
What would cause your 1450 to need a tow like that? From order of most likely my guesses would be:
1. Out of gas.
2. Ignition/wiring problem causing a loss of spark.
3. Sheared drive shaft coupler pin.
4. Blown rag joint.
5. Blown engine.
6. Busted gear in differential.
 
And it ruined the head.

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on July 07, 2005)
 
Dave K.I - I remember running Dad's 1961 Cub Cadet with the band brake on the left rear axle and having the thrilling ride downhill towards the ditch and road in front of Our house when I was about 7 yrs old. The internal disc brake on the 70/100's and newer definitely can have the same problem but I've never experienced Quite the same Thrill on them as I did on that '61 Model. The way I normally keep My tractors weighted up now and on ag tires slippage isn't a real big issue. The 70 I got on the 4th will probably get 6-12 23* Firestones in place of the Good Year G-2 6-12 Turfs that were on it when it was delivered about late May of '63. That and the 125+ pounds more I weigh now than when I was Seven should help traction quite a bit.
bubbly.gif
 
Terry B,
Kraig is right on the blow head/gasket.
And the GREAT GUY that he is, GAVE me one to get me back up and runnin ASAP!!!!!!!!!
29047.gif
 
OK, so call me a dope! What's the date for the "Little G" show. Went to the site and it doesn't tell me s---.
 
2 Original Questions...
My 5th original was deliverd sunday from KY. It had somithing none of my other 4 have. There is a small round sticker on the right side with a grease gun pictured indicating that there is a zerk under the frame for the drive shaft. Is this an original decal?

Also, exactly what does the original pan seat look like?

I have looked though the cd's I got from Craig, but I haven't found anything that gives me a clear idea of exactly what one looks like. I believe the original that I got sunday has the original pan seat.

Thanks
 
Will the outer blades from a 42"deck work on a 38"deck?
Or will I need to dig up some more gold for new blades my 38" deck?
 
Dave and Richard,

Thanks you for your opinions. I am building up a gear drive rear from "JUNK IN THE GARAGE" as my wife calls it, to stick in a 682 with a blown rear. I have the entire external brake set up from a 1200 and a fair working internal brake rear with a creeper from "something else". Looks like it may be worth putting those 1200 parts to good use.
 
Bruce N.

: cub cadet tiller powered by an 8 hp kohler :

Pictures, please. This sounds like an interesting find.
 
Lonny,
The 38"deck uses 10 inch outer blades. The 42" deck uses 10 3/4" blades.
 
I picked up a well used Cub 568 tractor a year ago, details are here: http://www.wheatfarm.com/ih_582/index.html

As you can tell from the pictures, the engine block is toast. I have a fellow offering to sell me an 18HP horiz twin Briggs engine that he thinks will drop in. Are any of you guys familiar with the horizontal twin Briggs motors enough to tell me if the 16HP and 18HP units have the same external dimensions? I will try to get the engine model number from the guy (he's not near enough for me to look at the engine).

TIA,
Jeremy
 
Terry B.
Thanks for the info on the blades, looks like I will have to dig up some more gold so I can get new blades for my 38in. deck.

Ain't that the way it always goes.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top