Archive through July 02, 2004

[digger]

Bryan,
They took his library card away a long time ago cause he wouldn't leave the National Geographics alone!!!!!!!

 

[bmcmeen]

Ouch! A tough crowd this Independence Day!

 

[fmorski]

Picked up a nice freebee today. Client had a 126 that was in his way. He originally said it was a 122. Turned out to be a decent 126 with a lot of options.
Electric lift, creeper, cigarette lighter and lights.

Deck has been repaired but is still in decent shape.

It had one tail light lense on it. It is about 1 in deep and rectangular. This is the first cub that I have got that has had a lense on the tail light. I am wondering if this is the correct lense.

Also, were their any other options other than the rear lift (sleeve hitch)that could have been purchased with the 126?

I will probably need to fix the electric lift so who is the go-to guy that is the expert on this?

Another guy called and donated some gear drive rearends to the cub patch. Was building a new shed and they were in his way.

Charlie Mc. I cheat, the non-runners are located in the bone yard 40 miles from the house. ALl the ones you saw were runners and attachments. All the donors and parts are at the other place. Two acre tract about 1/3 full of cub stuff. Goal is to fill it completly.

 

[KevinX]

Postings of items 'For Sale' or 'Wanted to Buy' (no matter how thinly veiled) shall be in the Classifieds. Placing them here will get your entire post "poofed".

 

[kweimann]

Frank,
Tallight should be oval like the single one that came on the 4/5 series.

 

[wcompton]

I've "gone to school" recently on paint prep.

Learned a couple things, some the hard way:
1. CNH spray can primer is a sealer, CNH quart-can primer is a surfacer. Why it's not noted I don't know, the only clue is that the spray can says nothing about sanding while the quart can refers to sanding recommendations.
2. Krylon primer surfacer seems to be good stuff, doesn't raise when covered with CNH primer sealer.
3. When using a polyester spot putty as a filler, it needs to be mixed liberally with hardener, otherwise it doesn't cure enough to knock down easily . . . mix in small batches of course.
4. The rubber/plastic body knives are more of a pain on straight tractor sheetmetal, steel drywall knives work much better and make for less work.
5. Have a can of spray paint sripper handy, when mistakes happen it's much easier to hit them with the stripper and watch mistakes melt away is much easier than fussing with the sandblaster or wire cup brush some more.
6. Lye (Red Devil) paint stripper solution works much better than anything but aircraft grade paint strippers, must be something about the older paints.
7. Using a flat piece of aluminum as a backing behind steel to fill holes works just as well as a flat piece of copper, and is much easier to find, BUT the oxidation has to be removed from the aluminum before each use otherwise the weld is pretty porous.
8. Asking for help on this forum, at the risk of looking like a moron, saves a lot of pulled hairs. THANKS!
<font size="-2">9. I'm not looking foreward to doing the hood!</font>

Here's before prep - after lye stripping. Note the holes in the dash.

Here's today, before it gets some 935 white and clearcoat at the painter.

 

[rchristensen]

Wyatt
I don't know if its just me but everytime there is a detailed discussion on painting I feel like a Kindergardener in a College course.

I read everything posted and save it, buy the different guns, get the paint and primer recommended. Then when it comes time to paint I grab a can of spray paint and hit it. Afterwards I'm never satisfied.

 

[wcompton]

Richard-
I'm staying away from laying down the color on this tractor, but for what a paint gun, decent compressor, and the recucers, hardeners and time spent I'm getting the tractor painted for less then the stuff I'd need.

And now for something completely different.

Though the sponsors sell battery retention brackets, I did a little homework and found a battery retention bracket that fits over the top of the battery, adding terminal protection AND because of where the fasteners poke through the plastic molding, allows a larger battery to be used. Something that OPEI might have made Cub Cadets retrofit like other manufacturers, but I wonder if the liability was lost with the sale to MTD.

<font size="-2">as for where to get them, ask a friend with a JD110/JD140, they likely could point you in the right direction</font>

(Message edited by wcompton on July 04, 2004)

 

[tmichalik]

OK so I was going about my usual routine today and was mowing the grass with my 72 with 38 inch deck that I have been mowing with for about 25 years and broke an outer spindle on the deck.

I know everyone here would react like I did. It is the 4th of July on a Sunday, the holiday is tomorrow and I won't get my grass cut until Tuesday,only if I take day off from work.

Well gotta tell you something, I called RF Houtz and got their answering machine and they said to "leave a message as they check them often" and will open on appointment only on Sunday and Monday during the 4th of July Holiday.

Left my message and will be meeting someone tomorrow at 7:00AM to get my replacement part.

Now that is what I call service.

To all you North East Illinois guys Ralph may be a little pricy at times but you can't be this kind of service.

Thanks Ralph

 

[ddulac]

Since everyone seems to be talking about paint I have some pics of my "spray bombed" 100 here. Spent about four hours removing the large chunks of rust with one of those dang drill-mounted abrasive wheels, orbital sanding and pressure washing before spraying any primer. I also got the cool little trailer for Father's Day. The 100 fits exactly on the 4x6 tilt trailer, and can use it around the house too. I am thinking of replacing the floor with planks though.

After removing the deck to paint I realized that the tensioner pulley needs to be replaced because the bearing is bad. Maybe I'll have it all back together Tuesday.

The hazard lights flash also when the lights are on.

It was a great cub day!

 

[bmcmeen]

Tom M. -

You mean Rob - Ralph's a bit further up the road and I highly doubt he'd EVER open on a holiday

Yes, Rob opened on a Sunday for me, too - on Memorial Day weekend. He even had a couple walk-ins who were prolly just as stunned to see him open.

You're right, you can't beat that kinda service with a stick.

 

[rmunday]

LOL! I just noticed Tom is in St. Charles! I'm down in Naperville

I've been out to Houtz once and was really impressed. The folks are great and easy to deal with.

 

[hsimon]

Wyatt - Just read your paint 101 and I very much have to disagree with using an aluminum block in place of a copper block or a brass block when plug welding holes. Aluminum doesn't hold up worth a darn. Just my .02.

 

[kmorrow]

Shawn L., on your seat question - my first Cub was a 106, same series as your 147. I also tried to find an exact replacement seat, but they are unfortunately NLA. CC dealers offer two styles of replacement seat for these tractors, a lowback which is the same (or very similar) style as the original-equipment seats on the QuietLine series and a highback which is the same (or very similar) style as the original-equipment seats on the 82 series. I have both styles of seats on my tractors (lowback on the 106, 149, and 1000, highback on the 128 and 1450). Both are good seats, but I think overall I prefer the highback for a couple of reasons - it's a bit more comfortable, especially if you're gonna be on the tractor for a while, and it has drain holes which will keep the water from puddling in the seat in case the tractor gets left out in the rain, as will happen occasionally. I get my seats from one of the sponsors, and he sells both styles for the same price. If you do replace your seat, I would recommend that you buy the replacement from a CC source, as the older Cub Cadets have a wider bolt spacing pattern than most aftermarket seats, and you will most likely have to cobble up some type of adapter plate to attach the aftermarket stuff. At one point I bought a seat at Lowe's that was made by MTD (sold under the Arnold brand) that stated on the box that it would fit both Cub Cadet and International Harvester products, but the bolt holes weren't even close. After that experience, I've stuck with the CC seats - they are a bit more expensive, but they are very good quality, comfortable, and fit right the first time, so to me they're worth it.

 

[slanda]

I've got an orig that I did a quicky on because it was really nice to start with, but now it doesn't look very good next to the one that is done correctly so I was thinking of forgetting about the paint and having all the major parts powder coated. they can match colors and with what centari costs the powder coat isn't much more and it's forever or close to it. besides without a booth I can never seem to get paint just right, and I've been involved in car resto for as long as I can remember.oddly though the cubs are like little bags of crack.can't explain it and going to quit trying.shawn

 

[slanda]

Ken, I just replaced the seat on my 782 with a new cub highback one and your right they are about as much as a racing bucket. Have you ever heard of anyone having a seat recovered or is there any of the sponsors that do it?

 

[tmichalik]

Bryan,
Your 100% right. It is Rob.....it's h@# getting old. Thanks.

 

[bmorong]

Gentlemen(and anyone else who'd care to respond):

I've had my new 1961 Original CC (the only tractor I've ever had) about two weeks now and am gathering more information about it; one thing I found is that the carb leaks, which drips down and fills the air cleaner (the old oil filled kind), also emptying the gas tank. So I've got a carb rebuild kit coming. (Is it possible that it's also leaking down through the intake and an open intake valve and into the crankcase -- after I changed the oil, the oil level later seemed to be higher).

But my main question is this: it doesn't have its original rear wheels; it has automotive 13" wheels and 7.00-13 snow tires, so it zips right along in 3rd gear. I've been watching eBay and have bid on (but haven't yet won) sets of Original rear wheels with 6-12 tires. I assume that means a 12" tire that goes on a 6" wide wheel. I've also seen later (wider) CC wheels/tires. Would those later wheels bolt onto my Original (did they change the bolt pattern? Is the offset such that they'd scrape on the chassis?) And what would be the diameter of the original 6-12 tires? -- my 7.00-13's are 24.5" across, so the rear end is slightly up in the air. Any answers would be greatly appreciated.

 

[wcompton]

Ben-
The actual rim size for a 6-12 tire is 5" width. Wider wheels for later model Cub Cadet garden tractors, at least up to the mid '90's or so should fit. Other makes might fit as well, but will likely have different offset.

 

[mgonitzke]

Ben M.-

It could be that the gas is overflowing the air cleaner and getting into the crankcase through a gap between the valve and valve guide or valve guide and block. If you notice you oil seems to be turning clear/trasparent from this, change it before you start it again. In fact I'd change it anyway right after you fix the carb, because an oil change is cheaper than an engine rebuild.