Austin E;every thing Digger said ,and is the oil hole on the bottom of the rod on the same side of the cam? did you install the rings in the the bore first and check the end clearance ,should be a round .015,did you check the od of the crank and id of rod .and the bore and the piston in the right place
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Archive through July 01, 2017
- Thread starter mfrade
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oopies i put 3.74, meant 3.374. like i said before never had measuring tools before last week. so i didnt mic anything. just was aiming to having everything run fine without issues.
I got the electrical system put back together on Iron Patriot put a new battery in the tractor,fuses,new condenser,ground strap,new ignition switch etc..my hopes were dashed when I turned the key for the first time and......nothing happen no crank or signs of life now the tedious mission of rechecking all the components with a test light to see were the break is.im going to start by jjumping the starter and working my way back...man I was hoping for cranking with the first shot ,every one have a great and safe birthday for the greatest county in the world,God Bless The United States Of America!
Austin E i understand ,if you w/o tools its a problem .so did you remove the ridge from the bore / if so do you have a feeler gauge ,and if you do run the gauge down the bore 90 from the piston pin and that should tell you how much clearance you have ,at the top of the bore ,but you still need to check the the rings in the bore ,and the other thing that was said ,i sure hopes this helps ,fell free to e/m me for more info .David
snicklas
Well-known member
Ethan,
First thing I would check is all the safeties if they are all connected, with the switches, or check any jumpers where the switches should be, if they are jumpered.
Factory safety's are: Brake pedal applied to start, and PTO in the OFF position. The electric PTO switch is actually a 2 position on switch. When the switch is down, in the "PTO - OFF" position, there is a circuit that allows the starter to function. When the switch is up, in the "PTO - ON" position, there is a circuit that allows the PTO to operate. These positions are mutually exclusive. If the circuit is made for the starter, the PTO won't work, if the circuit is made for the PTO, the starter won't work. There are times on mine, if it has been damp, or been "sleeping" for a while, I've had to wiggle the PTO switch while it's in the off position to get the tractor to start.
There is a brake switch under the tractor on the rockshaft the brake pedal operates. This switch can fail, or there is a "flapper" that pushes the switch when the brake is depressed. If either of those have failed, no start.... If you have the tunnel cover off, you should be able to see the brake switch........
Electrical on the Quietlines is fairly simple. If you need some direction, ask away, as I just recently fixed all the electrical issues on a 1650. A previous "mechanic" (not the owner) fancied themselves an 'lectrician.......
First thing I would check is all the safeties if they are all connected, with the switches, or check any jumpers where the switches should be, if they are jumpered.
Factory safety's are: Brake pedal applied to start, and PTO in the OFF position. The electric PTO switch is actually a 2 position on switch. When the switch is down, in the "PTO - OFF" position, there is a circuit that allows the starter to function. When the switch is up, in the "PTO - ON" position, there is a circuit that allows the PTO to operate. These positions are mutually exclusive. If the circuit is made for the starter, the PTO won't work, if the circuit is made for the PTO, the starter won't work. There are times on mine, if it has been damp, or been "sleeping" for a while, I've had to wiggle the PTO switch while it's in the off position to get the tractor to start.
There is a brake switch under the tractor on the rockshaft the brake pedal operates. This switch can fail, or there is a "flapper" that pushes the switch when the brake is depressed. If either of those have failed, no start.... If you have the tunnel cover off, you should be able to see the brake switch........
Electrical on the Quietlines is fairly simple. If you need some direction, ask away, as I just recently fixed all the electrical issues on a 1650. A previous "mechanic" (not the owner) fancied themselves an 'lectrician.......
Scott-I did Check the brake switch which is also new I actually wanted one from a lo-boy so that's what I put on seems more robust,and read on the tunnel cover about the pto switch positions.but now you have me wondering...I didn't change that switch..I'm looking to get it ready to plow this coming winter and wasn't focused on a "function" pto,I'll try your wiggle wiggle technique tomorrow..one thing that does humble me is as you put it "letrical"problems I hate them I'm a wrench turner not a nuclear scientist with a degree in electrical problems LOL.thank you for the input keep it coming all.
