Archive through January 31, 2005

[jingels]

My last post got archived.Be sure to check it out.Hope I'm not buggin' you guys.I'm just gettin' started in this and need a little extra info from time to time.I try to pay attention to what the winners are using as much as I can.That's usually a good starting point.Hopefully with some time and a little fatter wallet I can work my way up to the "Hot" classes.I have 3 kids to get grown up first though.

Have always wanted to do this so I won't give up easily.Again I want to thank you guys for takin' me under your wing.Even though I lean towards the Green and Yellow.My puller started life as a 73 but is now covered in JD 200 series sheetmetal.Still a Cub at heart though

.....Joe

 

[dlouis]

any place that sell firestone tires would be able to get those for you they are the 23 degree and this work far better then 23x10.50x12 carlisles. ive tried them both and believe these would would great for pulling or plowing. the tire pressure is also a key to make these work right. i believe on those some where between 6-8 works good

 

[jingels]

Cool,thanks...I'll be back...Joe

 

[jingels]

Ok,next.Anyone got a good starting point on the rear hitch distance(from the rear axle centerline)?Or does it just need to be "dialed- in" at the track.Just need some input.Thanks....Joe

 

[dvogt]

I always tried to keep them in as close as possible. granted the farther back they are the better they hook but you also loose the most drawbar if the front comes up & they are more difficult to steer

 

[wcompton]

Joe-
The drawbar we made on "Cyko" our pulling tractor in college, we "sunk in" the drawbar into the rear cover by cutting a channel, using 3/8" keystock all around the channel, and then a thin piece of plexiglass (to use as a sight gauge) to seal it all off. You could easily use steel instead. Keeping the tractor as a lever, and everything being porportional, we were able to somewhat compensate for heavy drivers and a lack of weight being out on the weight bar.

 

[tturner]

PLEASE READ!!

I guess that this is "hot-rodding," me and a friend took a Cadet 80 today and started tinkering with the pulleys, my question- how fast have people got them pieces of embarrassment up to? We are going to run the thing in the afternoon. When I say we, I mean Matt; because I personally dont want to be the one to try it first. Lets all guess on the speed and I will post actual speed tomarrow- it will be accurate because Matt has a G.P.S.

 

[sblunier]

I've seen them in those TV Lawn Mower Races doing 40mph!!!!!

 

[tturner]

Steve-
Thats reason enough for me to stick with my plan of letting Matt try it out. I was thinking that it was in that area. What is the main racing website; I visited it a coulpe of months ago, but forget what it is. Thanks

 

[digger]

Tyler,
Do a google search for Lawn Mower Races and you will find many.

 

[dkamp]

Hey Tyler- going fast ain't he problem nearly as much as keeping control... Take the front axle and add more caster... it'll tend to self-center, and steer with much more stability. Wear a helmet, okay?

 

[tturner]

Trust me; we will have a helmet. It is raining so it may have to wait till tomarrow.

 

[cdlong]

I have a concern with my 122's engine. Today I removed the deck, mule & hanger assy. I changed the oil,(even if she ain't running), & removed the hitch plate. I jacked up the front axle & greased everything. Sure was hard getting her to take grease. No fitting on the front wheel bearings, must be sealed bearings. Any how, I removed the spark plug, poured in some MMO, spun the motor over several times with the clutch(?), replaced the plug & spun her over somemore. I was able to spin the engine with my hand. Should this be happening? I'm thinking I don't have any compression. PO said motor ran fine, but he didn't say when. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Papaw

 

[dvogt]

several years ago a guy showed up at a snowmobile radar run with a Simplicity Broadmore that he used for L&G racing. they cliocked him at 40 mph with it. had astock 8 hp briggs in it.

C.d. could be a stuck valve, blown head gasket or broken rod. time to pop the head off

 

[dlouis]

we had a old craftsman lawnmower that we put different pulleys on it. we had it so that it would go 35mph when we would drive it around town before we had our drivers lisences. it would do some mean wheelies to. it all worked good until we started having problems with keeping the belt on and now we brokes some gears in the cheap rear end and now it just sits there.

 

[tturner]

BOY; does that devil run!!!

Preliminary test results show that by changing the pulley on the transmission alone we can get her up to speed petty good. It was raining so we didn't use the G.P.S.; but our guess is that it was doing an easy 20. Next; the 18's are going to turn into 22's.

I need to take a picture of the underside of this machine. We used the deck pulley to run the transmission and the deck clutch lever turned into a hand clutch. It shifts great like this. Our rationality has went out the window. We are going to work on it Tuesday, I will try and take a picture.

 

[cdlong]

Thanks Don,
I'll try pull the head tonight.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's a model 76 that John (aka "Big John") Buszkiewicz modified for lawn tractor racing.

 

[tturner]

We have a set of VERY agressive 25's that we are putting on it tomarrow; they are an extra set to Matt's old 4 wheeler. I don't know if anybody deals with A.T.V.'s; but they are 25x12-9 Blackwaters... Well I think that after those go on I might need a little bit bigger motor.

 

[cdlong]

OK Don & CO.
Pulled the head, here's 2 photos taken with the flash. Remember, I put MMO in the spark plug hole before I spun it over. I was amazed how easy everything unbolted. Piston & valves seem to be working fine, uyp & down-open & close. I was able to lift the head right off. Shouldn't it have been hard to get off? My only engine experience is back in the late 60s, early 70s with trucks.

(Message edited by cdlong on February 15, 2005)