Archive through January 30, 2004

[mbleznyk]

Mike L. Glad to see others are aware of the great benefits of Daves PointsSaver. I like the LED feature that allows you to use the static method of setting the points. A feeler gauge is just that, a feel and everybodys is different. Even a timing light is not 100% accurate on these K series. The static method is.
Mike, try one of Daves breather/valve covers. You won't have that dirty, oily mess any more least not on the carb side... It makes a huge differance especially if your motor is tired. later....

 

[dbarnett]

gee jeff do i know the guy? not really sure what i'll do with the 10hp, might just keep as a spare or?, got the last of the white parts painted for 149 today, and installed the hood decals, since there no exact measurement were to place them i put them on top like rally stripes

 

[wcompton]

While I await my Proto torque wrench from Grainger I did some work on my Brinly plow . . . .

It's now sporting a PO moldboard extension I took off a Little Wonder I recently aquired for parts. I've found that with my 169 I can plow deep enough that the plow has a hard time in previously tilled ground getting the furrow cut to completely roll over, I'm hoping this will help.

And the icing on the cake, I found some IH plow bolts!!!

 

[wcompton]

Before it comes up . . . . I thought the perfect thing to use would have been one half of a mower blade, EVERY blade I found "twisted" the wrong direction, I looked at some ditch mower blades, a few blades for Woods mowers, and my stash of used Cub Cadet blades (who knows why I'm keeping those around . . ) None would have worked.

 

[fmorski]

Wyatt:

The concept you have is correct. You need to look at the molboard attachments for plows. It is curved more so it turns the furrow over. The curve is much greater that the molboard itself. Maybe somebody has a pic of such an attachment to a farm plow. If my memory serves me, it was almost turned so the side the dirt was rolling off was almost parallel with the ground. I could be wrong as plows have not been used for quite some time on the farm. Chisel plows and no-till now.

 

[kupdike]

Wyatt....great plow extension idea!!! I found that the plows need a coverboard instead, so the Apostle's patented trash coverboard atachment was made.

As the picture clearly shows, depth is not a match for this attachment. It works well to clear the soybean slugs at most plow days also.....

I have not experimented with wires like the old time plowmen use to keep the plant residue "rolled under".

(Message edited by kupdike on January 31, 2004)

 

[digger]

Wyatt,
Just in case you want to get a little more creative.

 

[wcompton]

Ken-
That's the next project. I can only do so much in one day

Plus I got to the dealer to get my bolts at 11:59 this morning, I didn't want to take up much more of their time.

Adding the holes to the moldboard is the easy part, making them square with my little hand file is the pain in the butt!

 

[farmall gray]

On decal placement: IH probably had a specific
measurement for where to put the decals. But
I'm sure they didn't use a ruler when they put them on.

Wyatt,
A blade from a woods LH discharge belly mower would probably work. Like a model L59 or L306.

 

[digger]

Wyatt, Worksaver.com can fix ya right up too.

 

[wcompton]

Well, I'm sure glad I got an actual IH plow part, but I'm sure those mower blades and the Worksaver parts will do the same thing.

 

[sblunier]

Wyatt,

Probably won't make too big of a difference in soft crumbly ground, but I sure could have used a moldboard extension up in Wisconsin at the '03 Spring Break....just enough sod structure coupled with my 8" plowing depth stood the furrow on edge more than it rolled it over.

My plow redesign project is on hold until after the baby.

BTW, truck ended up showing a "lean-bank #2" code in the OBD-II. Pulled the MAF today and found some brown crud on one of the fillaments. Cleaned with carb/choke cleaner and a soft tooth brush and it seems to be A-OK now. Took one look at the plug locations and decided to wait for a better (warmer) day to tackle that project.....what a SOB on a 4.6/5.4!!!!

 

[jrichardson]

So Doug,

Are you saying that I need to take a ride up to your place with Kraig's Exacto? From the looks of what you had done up to this point, it was looking G-O-O-D. A real looker! I just can't wait to try out the 149+.

You know what the plus is for...

 

[mmajor]

Have been away for awhile & lurking...

Steve - Carb cleaner on a MAF is a big NO-NO as it will damage the element. If your truck starts today, consider yourself VERY lucky.

Marty

 

[hmgould]

149 front axel fix? I am looking at using a case hardened steel bolt turned to accept lubrication like the old pin, Slotted nut, Warshers on the outside front and back and Brass washers on the inside. This way I can drop the front axel every couple of years to replace the brass washers and be on my way. The only problem I can see is room for the bolt head at the rear. The motor is out now and I don't remember if the oilpan falls below the frame in this area which would prevent me tightning the nut from the rear. Will this correct the fore and aft axel travel problem? Let me know what you think.

 

[fmorski]

Martin & Steve:

It will probably start but will not idle. Martin is right. Cleaner will erode off the element coating that produces the correct resistance across the element that is fed to the computer. It does not take much to alter the resistance to the point that it wil cause the engine to not idle and run rich.

MAF's wear out without any signs on the fillaments.

Wyatt:

Digger's pic's show what I was talking about. The curvature of the addition is greater so it turns the dirt over.

 

[till]

Herbert,

Steve B has done a mod like that (with out the brass washewrs) to his tractors. I think you will have to cut the head of the bolt to get it to clear the oil pan of the engine. The nut will be froward of the axle and in some cases, just behind the wheel

. With that setup you can take out the slop and keep it out. The X82's are set up like this.

 

[wcompton]

Steve-
I'll echo an earlier post, chemicals + MAF = excessive wear on the shoes

. . . . . they have a hard enough time with pure air

I know what you mean by how allergic I wanted to be to working on my pickup yesterday. I replaced the plugs on my pickup yesterday when it was -5, my wife didn't realize it was missing until it was only running on 5 cylinders!!!

 

[dbarnett]

jeff r. actually i put them on the side right against the flange, got to keep the correct police happy, but they would look cool as rally stripes

i'm thinking of having my foot rest and battery box sprayed with spray on bed liner anyone else tried this?

 

[bmcmeen]

Herbert/Tedd -

Rob Houtz (a sponsor from IL) uses a 3/4" NF bolt and one of the low-profile elastic stop nuts that are used on the mower deck spindles. I would assume that washers might be used under the bolt head so that the threads don't stick out too far.

Another way to do it is to just use a plain nut, bolt and washers and use this as a clamp to bend the steel into closer tolerances, then reinstalling the axle, using thin washers to make up any remaining slack with the original axle pin setup.

We must have pictures of this in someone's archives...