Archive through January 29, 2015

[jclazar]

Nic B, I have to question "always". My thought is: do you suppose that our Originals would have lasted so much longer if we used full synthetic engine oil, OR replaced worn engine components like rings, valves, ect. thus making a more diligent effort to preserve such a well made garden tractor. I cant believe how that kind of machinery was discarded in that generation. I mean, using a top shelf engine lubricant is just fine. At least after 8 years when the remainder of any machine is all but junk, rest your head your engine oil is still good!

I use Cub Cadet or Kohler low ash engine oil in all my IH built Cub Cadets and I cant say I been around long enough to notice any major differences outside the microscope! Still, I thought your post was informative and perhaps I will one day, try full syn!

Please forgive me should I be out of line, but thanks to our IH Cub Cadet friends, I see and enjoy many of the Originals today!

 

[hydroharry]

Geez - are we getting back into the oil debate again? I always remember way back at the start of the Forum, BGC (Before the Great Crash), someone passed along an old-timers comments "Oil is oil, and some is better than none".

Anthony T - Kraig asked "what is worn out on your 1650 rearend?". Our discussions on here generally consider the hydro pump "separate" from the rearend. The rearend itself is basically bullet proof. The hydro pump isn't quite but nearly bullet proof, and does have some issues. Generally the pump issues are the infamous cork gasket leaking where it mounts to the rearend, and wear on the trunion slot, springs, buttons, etc. I don't think I've ever heard anyone claim their "IH rearend was wore out". Can you fill us in on the symptoms and issues you have with the current 1650 rearend? I wouldn't want to swap the charge pump section on the front of the pump, in an unheated garage either, BUT, swapping an entire pump might be possible, or even repairing the trunion on your existing 1650 pump might be possible - at least a temp fix if you're stuck in some situation.

We've got some really good FAQ's on here that might help you. Please give us the details on your situation so we can try to advise and help you out.

 

[dlbarnett]

Kraig keeper of the photos, Do you have one of where to mount the light switch on a 123?

 

[dfrisk]

DOUG B. - Have you checked the operator's manual for where the light switch should be mounted?

 

[digger]

Doug B.

 

[digger]

Here's a better shot out of the Owners manual if you could see it, LOL

Now ya can,

 

[snicklas]

I've not had a narrow frame with factory lights. So they didn't move the headlight switch next to the ignition key switch until the wideframes.... I didn't know that. I never would have thought to look over there for a headlight switch.......

 

[dfrisk]

CHARLIE - That pic of the 125 you posted @ 2:44 sure shows how much darker the new blue decals are!

A blind man can tell the difference between new & old.

 

[hydroharry]

Dennis - can a blind man see the post production springs under the seat and the replacement engine in that 125 pic?

 

[digger]