Archive through January 29, 2015

[dkirk]

Rodney,

It is safe to switch to a full synthetic at any time. Only during break-in and for approximately the first 50 hours on a new or rebuilt engine, should regular mineral oil be used.

 

[dtanner]

DAVID K

I thought when I made that post that some one would correct me on the type of material to use for a rod insert . Thank you .

 

[rkelm]

David, thank you for the information. It helps.

 

[nbextermueller]

Rodney, here is the post I made back in in Oct 2012:

Here's why the full synthetic oil is ALWAYS better. Imagine all the little carbon chains we call oil floating around in a Qt of oil. When that oil comes from dinosaur oil, there are lots of different chains of all different sizes. For the sake argument, let's say they are golf balls, baseballs, and soccerballs. All the little golf balls do nothing but fill space. Yes the lubricate, but they are small enough to slip past rings, valve guides, seals and just quickly get burned up or get stuck somewhere they shouldn't be. All those soccerballs are even worse. They are to large to even really properly lubricate and mostly get broken up or never make to the tiny spaces we call clearances. It's all those baseballs that do all the work we want, lubricating while stay where we need them.

Full synthetic oil is engineered to be ALL baseballs (all the exact same carbon chain and all the same perfect size). Its still oil, it's just engineered and formed in a lab instead of under a pile of rocks we call earth. So you are already noticing the benefit of full syn oil. Because you are no longer burning off all those golf balls and breaking down those soccerballs (becoming sludge) which is why Dino oil is so high in detergents, to keep those broken down chains from sticking to your engine parts, which ironically means its passing more dirt and less oil through the oil passages the longer it's run. Why do you think they make full syn's that can run 15k miles? It's not breaking down or burning up!


So to answer the question, not only is it safe to switch, your SHOULD switch. And like said below, use Dino oil for break in or go full bore and use "break in oil".

 

[mfrade]

Hey to everyone.. the storm has been kicken my butt! The plant I work at is in turmoil and I've been worked 16 on and 8 off, with a 2 hour commute,there isn't much time for for sleep and dinner!

Harry / Amy, I did start my day at 9 am, just swapping the blade for the thrower. I began tossin' snow after lunch and with a dinner break for a couple hours.. I was playing for maybe 5 hours, I got the tractor stuck in some spots with the snow and ice underneath. Had to come along the tractor back out about 50 - 60 feet!

I'll get the pics I got to Kraig and ask that he post'em for me/us.. Hopefully soon! Thanks for your patience!

 

[mfrade]

On the "synthetic" oil topic.. another 2 cents.
The label of "synthetic" is really a mis-nomer,
It IS dino oil, it is just that the processing plant collects the hydrocarbons that match the specification that is being required, that is "they" match all the baseballs to baseballs or basketballs to basketballs, etc. (to use someone elses analogy) but it is dino oil and the difference is in the processing / refining, it isn't "fake" oil or made from some other substance.

I've been running Mobil 1 in my "73" for the past few years, I think it's great! Stays cleaner longer and no unexpected loss as in smoke!

 

[nbextermueller]

I think that opinion that it IS dino oil is a bit of a stretch. While I agree that it is petroleum based and refined differently, saying that it still Dino based is the same as saying your computer monitor or plastic lunch box is dino oil too. And of course those things are synthetic. It's a process of taking specific chemicals and adding and refining until you have created the hydrocarbons you desire.

It's not as simple as taking the same crude oil and simply sorting it better. That's still conventional oil. In fact that's how they get different weights and multi grades. But synthetic IS lab created from seperate chemicals that produce the desired oil. How to I know? My father-in-law was aVP at Exxon-Mobil, then President of Castrol, and then a VP at BP America.

He knows more about the industry then most line workers making the stuff. Plus it was and added bonus to be related to the guy who signed John Force's sponsor deals... Made NHRA events alot more fun to attend.

 

[aaytay]

Interesting discussion on synthetic oils. Not that we can trust everything we read online, but I thought this was interesting info:

Synthetic Oil

The second paragraph is what I noticed seemed to describe how synthetics are "made".

 

[nbextermueller]

Well, it appears that for once we are both right!

You can have "fake" synthetic oil. That must be that Walmart/super flow crap...

Not that it matters. I run Lucas Oil in everything I can and full Syn Valvoline in everything else.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Donald Tanner. If my ancient memory serves me correct that was another gentleman that had trouble with his front angle not working properly on his Cub Cadet's front hydrualic angle blade not functioning correctly. Ted Newman's problem is one where they hydraulic won't lift. One must remember.... As I believe I've previously stated... It is darned hard to trouble shoot a problem with minimum information or not following up with further information or feedback. I'll simply go into the Archives tonight and check them for the gentleman with the hydrualic angle problem's name.

Here is a question to answer... My Cub Cadet 1650 won't start. It has a healthy battery, great spark, good gas flow to the carburetor, starter turns over freely, great compression. The engine is not flooded either. Why won't it start?

 

[rciminieri]

Hello has anyone ever seen a narrow frame hydraulic set up and a danco loader run on the same tractor? Is a double pully available for the rear of the engine? Thanks for the help.

 

[rbeem]

Marlin,
Your 1650 has Spring fever and might be a little tempermental because it has not been to enough plow days.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Robert, I do not recall ever seeing one. I looked through my archives and did not find any info on, or photos of Cubs equipped with both a Danco loader and the add on Hydraulic lift. This does not mean that they do not exist, just that I couldn't find any info to prove they exist.

 

[ajtimm]

Anybody know how to swap a 1250(non-hydro deck lift) rearend with my wornout 1650(hydro deck lift) rearend??

I have a rebuilt rearend on a donor 1250 and I'm trying to swap to my bad 1650. I thought there would be fittings for the hydraulic lines(that go to the 1650 deck lift) on the 1250, but there is just an empty pad where the fitting should be. Is there an easy solution to this by swapping parts? I've never taken a rear hydro apart.
Sorry for the long post- thanks in advance for the expertise!!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Anthony, WELCOME!

The 1650 has a ported Hydrostatic pump, the 1250 has a non-ported Hydrostatic pump. What is "worn out" on your 1650's rear end? Are you sure it's worn out and not just in need of new Hy-Tran and a new filter? Or is it the differential and axles that are worn out? If it is the pump that is worn out you could CAREFULLY swap out the charge pump section, which is the front portion of the Hydrostatic pump that has the lift ports. And hope that it's not where the wear is... The SERVICE MANUAL for the Wide Frame through the Quiet Line Series covers how to disassemble and service the Hydrostatic pump.

 

[hydroharry]

Marlin - are you running some kind of contest with this question?

"My Cub Cadet 1650 won't start. It has a healthy battery, great spark, good gas flow to the carburetor, starter turns over freely, great compression. The engine is not flooded either. Why won't it start?"

My "wag" answer is - if the engine is not flooded then it sounds like your fuel is not getting "thru" the carb. My bet on the exact problem is your float needle is stuck in the closed position. I've found with the current gas quality around if you leave gas sit in the carb for a period of time it gums up the needle causing it to stick closed. I've had some success just tapping on the side of the bowl and getting units to start. Otherwise, it's remove the carb, remove float bowl, clean up the needle and seat with some carb cleaner, re-install and try it, and if that doesn't work, well install a new needle and seat. Re-use or replacement of the bowl gasket is hit or miss - so if you get a new gasket in the needle and seat kit I'd use it.

If this doesn't solve the problem - well, must be something else clogging up the carb passages.

 

[rciminieri]

Thanks Kraig. Trying to set it up to use loader and a tear lift item like a rear grader blade

 

[ajtimm]

Thanks Kraig!

Not sure I want to tackle the pump in my unheated garage.. also looks maybe too big for me. I hate to wreck the good rearend. Much thanks for the link to the manual!! Explained a Ton!!!

 

[dkirk]

Don T.,

Bearing materials for engine bearings are very specialized components. Ideal materials have a relatively soft wear surface which allows particles to embed and not damage the rotating journal. A typical insert bearing is made from a steel outer shell with copper - tin - lead plating, the lead forming the actual bearing surface. These are known as tri-metal bearings and are the standard in the automotive industry. The alloys used are very specific and can be tailored for demands of the intended application. In the old days, bearings were typically poured using lead - Model T Ford engines were constructed this way. Surprisingly good and long-lived bearings if maintained properly.

Aluminum has proven to be an excellent bearing material, and thus an aluminum rod running directly on the crankpin journal is the standard for small engines. As long as the bearing gets oil, things work fine, but if oil supply is interrupted, an aluminum bearing quickly overheats and deposits aluminum on the journal. The tri-metal insert bearing is more tolerant of this and that's why it's preferred in a high-output engine application.

I would recommend that you not try making your own bearing. If you did, the only alternatives I see would be to make an aluminum shell bearing, or a poured lead bearing. It would appear to be a lot of work and the end results would be questionable regarding durability when compared to the available tri-metal bearing.

 

[dfrisk]

DAVE K. - When I rebuilt my K321 years ago, seems like about ten yrs ago.... The bearing insert was a Clevite 77 for a Continental engine, some little flat head 4 like a Cub Farmall would use. The two halves of the insert cost a whopping SEVEN Dollars back then. They probably cost $15 now, but they'd still be a bargain.

It's not really worth trying to reinvent the wheel.