Archive through January 28, 2014

[dlbarnett]

Daniel B - one of the sponsors at the top of the page should be able set you up with one.

 

[nbextermueller]

Daniel,

You could also just find the manual here, as mentioned. And just Print the pages you need to carry to the shop. Then when they get all messed up from greasy, dirty hands and using tractors parts to hold them in place so you can read them with out holding them... You can use them to start a fire to keep warm.

 

[thoffman]

Paul A,
NO! You can't use the front plow and rear blade at the same time unless you come up with a better idea than the IH engineers had.

 

[pyahn]

Hello again,

Thank you Jeff, Harry, Tony, Doug, and Scott for the warm welcome and quick responses!

There are a couple of plows listed on Craigslist, one of which is described as having one blade spring broken. Is this a difficult/expensive repair, or a reasonable way to get started cheaply?

Glad to hear that the hitch plate is sturdy. Is it sturdy enough to hold a 2" receiver hitch (probably 6" long) - I have lots of ideas for things that will mount in a receiver. Better yet, have any of you already built something like that? (and can point me to pictures & drawings)

LIghts! I knew I forgot something...how much can the 108 support electrically? There are no lights of any type on it now.

Angle control from the driver's seat - having done the hop-off-the-seat-to-angle routine long ago, I'd like to keep it in the distant past. Was that ever a factory option, or just the handiwork of one of your own here?

Thanks again for your input,

Perry

 

[thoffman]

Perry "Y",
I have one of these made buy a fellow forum member. Best $$ I've ever spent!

 

[mgerecke]

Timothy-Nic
I am also another guy here from St. Louis!!

 

[pandrews]

Tom H, Thank you
Paul A

 

[kmcconaughey]

Perry Y., Daniel B., WELCOME!

 

[sblunier]

Perry,

You have about 15A total to work with on a Starter/Generator equipped machine like your 108.

 

[bbranstetter]

Jim,

My repair budget was blown after the front tire went flat a few weeks ago.

After getting all the parts for the set up I figured I'd have to wait a few more weeks before that new chain got slide under the radar.

Probably didn't help that it was 6 degrees out either.

I'll have some new chain this afternoon from the local industrial supply. Should be back in business after that. Really should have picked it up on the last run but was just being cheap. Was hoping to make it for the season and do a repaint and rebuild this summer.

 

[tkhoffman]

Perry, here is the 2" receiver that Tom H just showed you. Just made a Draw Bar to hold the additional weights. Only 25 pounds on it when I was test fitting. Currently painted and stacked with 100lbs on a rubber spacer

One Spring.. If the snow isn't a slushy mess I bet you will start off OK with that. Not sure where to get a replacement ( maybe still available.. Check Cub Cadets Parts in our sponsors at top of page. LINK

When you look at the Plows Make sure the Post that the plow pivots on for angling is welded down, That is a breaking point. Easy to repair if you have a welder But if not... check for it.

 

[tkhoffman]

Here's a PIC of that Plow pin that breaks it's weld.

If the Plow is upside down, it's the Pin with the Crown Nut and cotter pin.

 

[dfrisk]

PAUL ANDREWS - re sleeve hitch blade & frt blade on a CCO a the same time... Can be done, but without modifications, both blades will raise at the same time and lower at the same time.

Back 30+/- yrs ago when I used my !A-36 snow blower on my #72 I also made brackets to rear mount my 40" wide belly blade on the back of the tractor. I remember one lifted while the other lowered, they "counter-balanced" each other and reduced the effort needed to lift either one, plus the rear blade added needed extra rear weight which I really needed. But I can't remember exactly how I did it. I did have a second lift arm on the rockshaft with multiple holes for the lift rod to the QA-36 so I could adjust lift height and effort needed, but can't remember how the rear blade lift worked. I "Think" I ran a lift rod or arm from that added lift lever to the rear blade in one of the extra unused holes.

"Stock" both blades will move up together and down together, some modifications will be needed.

A Cub Cadet with both a frt & rear blade will be VERY long, probably around twelve feet long.

 

[drglinski]

Tony H

My blade was busted in the exact same place this summer when I re painted it. My brother welded up the pin for me; good as new again.

 

[pyahn]

Thanks Tom, Kraig, Steve, and Tony!

I now have more information than I have time & money to act on. I'm not complaining, mind you.

Hope to have some progress to report soon.

Perry

 

[digger]

OK, so WTH happened to the 123 round fender post????

 

[gzimmers]

I posted that, but deleted it somehow. Here is the post:

Hi, all. I really like the looks of round fenders on early Cubs. I'm looking for a 123, but wondered if round fenders would fit or could be made to fit without major surgery. I like the idea of an old Cub, hydrostatic, and round fenders. I searched, but didn't see any posts or pictures of this combination.

Thanks,
Gary

 

[digger]

Sounds like a cool idea, I say do it and report back with pics.

I think I have a 123 left, I might have to try it myself!

 

[gzimmers]

I agree, Charlie. I found these pictures of a 72 with round fenders, so I'll bet they'd fit the 123. The other is a 72 puller. I'll be using ag tread tires and will post pictures if/when I get it together.

Thanks again,
Gary

 

[thoffman]

GZ,
The only issue I see without really looking at it would be the taller tunnel cover.