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Archive through January 27, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Willie: The 126 requires an extra bracket:
125
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126
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Hello all. I am a recent cub convert and I think they are the best tractors in the word! I am learning many new things about the cubs all the time. But my question is are there any big issues with turning a gear tractor into a hydro? I would like to change my 128 into a hydro or I guess it would be a 129, I have a spare 109 parts tractor that is pretty much all there minus body parts and front axle. The 128 was given to me and has a homemade loader on it. The loader design is not all that pretty but it is very functional and will lift about anything. The loader I think would be a real pain to transfer to a different cub and I would like it to be hydro so this is why I ask. Anyhow that's all Ive got right now so thanks for any info.
 
Chris M, Welcome.
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Simple answer is yes it can be swapped over. The other answer is, I can't believe it wouldn't be less trouble in the long run to swap the loader and engine. Its yours, either way enjoy it.
 
well im going to pick up the 782 this weekend and was woundering if a rear lift assembly,drive and rotertiller off an 125 would work on the 782
 
I think I finaly found a 123 but it has been seting outside. I am extreamly sceptical about hydros ,is it true that everything works good untill the oil warms up then things stop working(if the hydro is bad).
 
Chris Morgan: Everything Dave said.
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Maybe someone who's changed a gear drive to hydro will chime in. I just can't imagine it, when I think that it would involve changing all the linkages, possibly the whole dash tower, etc. (ETC.)
On the other hand (and I've just removed 1 loader, and that was a factory-made Danco), unless yours is welded to your 128 it shouldn't be all that difficult to remove. Someone put it on there! Can you post pics? I, personally, can see the sense in the hydro/loader idea as opposed to the gear/loader. Stick around, you can learn something here every day. Case in point: It just dawned on me that when someone mentions a GD tractor, he's not swearing at it!
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Lucas (I'm very skeptical about hydros) Jones:
What better chance to get over that skepticism than to get yourself the model that introduced hydrostatic drive to the Cub Cadet line?! I've read a lot, here, and don't ever remember seeing an answer to your question. This could be an interesting day!!
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Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)

Whats up lol !
I would think that if you had all the hard ware from a hydro tractor, It would be a days work to change out the gear drive to Hydro. I say a day cause to get it all set up to work perfect would take the time.
later Don T

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skype !
Man this new video card is great 1 gig on board Ram
 
Chris-

I've gone the other direction, and I'm going to say it was a lot of work. It'll be easier to move the loader to another tractor.

Roger-

Rear lift, no. Tiller, yes, if you get the appropriate mule drive and 5/8" pulley for the gearbox.

Lucas-

I don't understand why you're so worried about the hydrostatic transmissions in these tractors. They are nearly bulletproof. It does not particularly matter that it sat outside. I had a 127 that sat outside for probably 15-20 years, and it was just fine once I got it running. Some will stop working once the tractor warms up, but out of the 25-30 hydro tractors I have bought, NONE have been worn out. Just one was broken because someone towed it. Besides, even if you do get one with a bad hydro, it's not a big deal...just get a used unit, as they aren't very expensive.
 
Started to tear down the 123 I got late a few months back. I decided to rebuild the engine first this time and worry about the rest of the tractor later when it's warm enough to throw some paint. Overall its in good condition and no missing pieces like I had with the 104. It has the original dealer stickers on it from Rochester, NY. Funny how it is 2.5 hours south of there now. Makes me wonder how many P.O.'s there were in it's life. I will post pics as soon as I edit them.
 
Frank C & Lucas J.
The question was answered in less than a hour after he posted.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Saturday, January 23, 2010 - 07:15 pm:

Lucas J.
Not in the least.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
BUY IT!
 
Tiller questions:
1) When using a tiller on a wideframe tractor (1450) does it help to have wheel weights, or fluid filled rear tires?
2) What about additional weight on the front of the tractor to keep the front end from getting light?
3) In regards to mule drives for tillers, will the existing mule drive for mowing work OK, or will the belt keep jumping off because the pulleys are angled?
 
SCOTT S. - Interesting comment/question You ask about how tractors get "Moved". Two of my CC's are 200 miles from "Home". Same thing with the two FARMALL's. Dad had the Super H hauled probably 15 yrs ago. It "Lived" within 6-8 miles of the home place it's whole life. SON & I hauled the M 3 yrs ago. It was delivered from the dealer 12-23-1951 to the farm I grew up on, then moved a half mile away in '72 and stayed there till Labor Day '06. The whole FLEET, the 3 CC's, two Farmall's, IH fridge, the '96 PSD may ALL move back "Home" someday.
 
Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine},

The loader is welded on it every where. The loader is homemade and I would hate to ruin a good tractor putting it on there. It's defiantly cobbled together and I'm sure the geometry is all wrong on it but it works for me. I just thought if it was possible and I have the parts maybe I would give it a shot.
 
Rob
I have never needed extra weight on the rear for tilling because of it's own weight. A trunion in good working order is more important in my opinion. Some weight on the front will help steering in freshly tilled soil. I collected a spare mule drive and heated the brackets and bent them so the belt goes straight back. I also made a second adjusting screw and don't use the spring on the mule drive.
 
OK, how about Roger's question. My semi-edjificated guess is no, the lift from a 125 isn't going to fit on the 782.
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<font color="0000ff">Under edit:</font> (after Charlie's answer). Next question: Who knows where to get hood ornaments rechromed? (That was someone else's question a few days ago). To add a question, CAN those pot metal ornaments be rechromed?
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That looks good. There are a couple home re-chrome kits available but they don't do a very good job. There may be a better kit somewhere. I can't afford a nice hood ornament like that for my O but I do have plenty of aluminum and access to a mill.
 

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