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Archive through January 25, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Steve B., I stand corrected!
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Greg L,

I've not had any problems with grease zerks using the electrolysis rust removal method. I used it on the front axle assembly to remove the paint from the cast iron and the zerks came through just fine. The washing soda detergent really helps remove grease and dirt as well.

Matt W,

Welcome!! I'm a displaced Nebraskan now living in Kansas but still have a shop at my Moms up there where I work on Cubby parts.. The 682's are almost the same as 782's except they have manual lift rather than hydraulic lift and a non-ported hydro pump. If you plan on getting rear mounted attachments like a tiller or Brinly plow or disc, you will need a rear lift sleeve hitch and a helper spring attachment, so those would be something to check on. For a 682, the lift arm that goes between the lift handle and rear lift arm is kind of unique as it has two kinks in it and are a little harder to find. I'm sure some of the forum sponsors at the top of hte page could help you out on those or you could place an ad in the classifieds.

One other thing to be aware of on the 82 series is that there are both IH built models and Cub Cadet Corporation models out there. IH sold off the Cub Cadet line in May 1981 to MTD who set up Cub Cadet Corporation to continue manufacturing and distribution of Cub Cadet's through IH dealers. Check the serial number tag to determine which version it is. Most everyone on this forum is partial to the IH built Cubbies, especially since that's what this forum page is for.
 
Hey folks, I was wondering if I could throw a poll out there and see what you think I should do with my 169. My current cubby plans call for a 123 to be added to the collection (I'll post pics when after we clean it up) in a week or two. Then my Dad's old 1650 is going to be stripped down and painted. It's been out of commission since the connecting rod decided to remodel the block by adding a huge window. Once that's done, I'll take ownership of it and finally retire the 169 so it can be restored as a show piece. My question is this...

How should I dress the 169 for show??
Mower Deck
Tiller
Front Blade
Plow
... or something else??

Let me know your thoughts!!! Thanks!!
 
I am new to this forum and have acquired 2 Cub Cadets. The 1200 (1976 ?) starts and runs good. The other is a 123 Hydro and I think it is a 1966. I got a 40" tiller, 36" snow blower, and mower deck with it. It starts and runs well also. both look pretty rough. As soon as I verify the years and models I will list them in the classified section. Thanks to all for a very informative site. Don
 
Hello Group, gettin ready to sand blast and prime my snow plow, what is a recomended primer? Thanks
 
Boy...I don't know Jim, looks like your just askin for trouble. If it we're me..a girlie 169 otta have a mower deck I suppose. Now if ya want to do a nice work horse to show it would be a narrow frame gear drive but that's just my oppinion.
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Can anyone tell me the length of a spring on a CW-36 snowthrower in the collapsed setting? From the end of the eye to end of eye and diameter of wire in the spring. I need to get a couple of replacements that are missing on my thrower.

TIA,
Keith

Oh Kraig, yes that's the CCO with 70/100 decals I was referring to. I think there was one in a field with a pull type implement too. Sorry, I didn't get online all weekend.
 
Not my fault Allen, I tried to get a little harmless
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goin.
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Keith ,the springs are 1 1/8 dia 5" long and the wire size is .130ths , when you find them let me know where you found them. Lost one and cant find the spring i lost .
 
Jim C:
Some of the shows I've attended won't let you have a mower deck mounted on your tractor if you are cruisin' the show with it (no problem if you're just setting up for display, though...)
Allen:
I'll bet that Cat-et is shakin' like a 169 with no balance gears and busted mounts....
 
Working a little bit in the shop.
Reciever hitch project.
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Unproven yet but I think that it should be okay to move small boats and trailers around.
Might have to fabricate some counter-weights for the front. I have some railroad iron lying around.
Copied from a pic that I probably saw on this Forum.
Thanks to the original designer.
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Hello everyone, I am new to the forum this is my first post. Just this past weekend my brother and I got a 128 series running after sitting for about 10 years. It runs great!! only problem is that the clutch doesn't disengage and the brakes don't apply when I push the pedal all the way down. So when I try to put it into gear it grinds. Can anyone point me in the direction of how to figure out what causes this problem and possible solutions.. Thanks!!
 
Jeffery R., welcome to the forum. If the clutch and brakes are not funtional, I would start checking the clutch/brake pedal linkage. Adjustments would be the first thing to look at. Do you have a manual for your 128?
 
Jeff-
Welcome to the forum. If it's really been sitting for 10 years, then there is a very strong possibility that the clutch plates are just "frozen" with rust.

I would push the pedal down, lock it there, then pry at the clutch plates (carefully!) with a screwdriver.

If they pop apart as you get in there, that could be your problem....
 
Kendell I: Good point about the mower, I would definetly leave the blades out after it gets restored. So far, it seems that the mower deck has received the most votes. My uncle suggested I just toss his spare set of IH hub caps on and not attach anything to it. I guess we'll see how bad the deck is after we dig it out of the corner of the shop come spring. Just as long as my girlie 169 (Bbrigham)
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looks her best when we show it.
 
Have any of you had your internal brake disc turned? Mine is pitted on the 70 from the water sitting in there.
 
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