• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through January 23, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Charlie

I also see what could be a down draft pipe . I don`t think that size would help muck but. I was on a safety committee at work and saw it both ways.Some workers had a problem with PPE and would not wear what was in the work instruction.Safety meeting we held one day a month after lunch. If it wasn`t for workers comp rates and government these meeting would have never happened.I was expecting big things when voted in to Chair on the side for the union workers .My first question to plant management was ( what is, our budget for this year). The answer was , Why do you ask.I knew I was in a no win on that.( you ask us to improve safety and we see people not wearing PPE). That comment got me
fence.gif
. I did win a few battles with them and was still promoted last.
old.gif


Art

You can lead a horse to water but you can`t make him drink !
 
ART - For the first 3-1/2 months I worked @ FARMALL, my work station was just across a thin steel wall from the main line paint booth. There were ventilaton fans, waterfalls, low or no overspray type nozzels. The paint & tracors were electrically charged to attract the paint. From where I worked most of the time to where the painters themselves stood while painting was "MAYBE" ten feet with that wall between us. I never smelled ANY paint fumes. And my work area was NOT a "No Smoking area". If I remember correctly, by the late 70's the painters were wearing face masks & breathing masks inside the booths.

Most of the paint booths were set up so the tractors/parts went thru a paint curing oven of sorts after being painted because as soon as the parts/tractors came out of the booth more parts were put in/on. A few lines (there were four alone @ FARMALL) the painted parts stayed on the overhead conveyors and wound around the rafters of the plant while drying. The wheel, weight, & dual hub line was one of those.

I've watched the shows about how BIG green combines are built in East Moline, IL. And to be honest, thirty yrs ago @ FARMALL we were doing almost exactly the same thing, except instead of using robots, we had four men doing the painting, typically only three painting and the forth cleaning equipment, getting the 325 gal totes of paint ready to spray. 2150 red was the only color shot on the main line booth except when special order tractors painted 483 yellow, or orange/green, or other colors came thru. That booth had the ability to shoot those colors thru extra guns from either 5 gal pails or 55 gal drums depending on how many tractors were involved.

Another thing you probably can't notice in the pic's is there was very little MASKING done on anything. Serial number plates, axles/spindles, and very little else were masked. Most belts, hoses,radiators IH tried to install after painting.

Another thing done @ FARMALL, not sure about LVL, about everything "cosmetic" like hoods, fenders, side panels, covers around the operator platform clamps, & brackets, cab steps & battery boxes went thru a BONDERIZER. It was a combination hot water caustic wash, blow dry and while still warm the parts would be painted, either 215 red or 935 white and the change in paint color was only done once or twice a week. When yellow or other colored parts were needed that was done as a separate batch all parts painted at once. The phosphatized wash etched the steel and eliminated the need for primer on all those steel parts.

Many forum old-timers remember Jim Steele, His Dad was painting General Forman @ IH E. Moline for many years, also consulted with our people @ FARMALL and I remember Jim saying His Dad setup many of the paint lines @ LVL.

TOM H. - Yes, BILLOHIO over on the RPM forum started "What IF" threads years ago about "What IF FARMALL built the Super R-TA in '54 instead of the SM-TA. General opinion (I'm more than slightly biased) was that IH would have been still building 125 150-350 HP tractors a day, I'd be retired from FARMALL by now (30 and OUT!) and that other equipment co in Moline would be a short line equip company building wagon gears, grain carts, and manure spreaders.

Don't know about the "660 PUP" decal. I think the real early WH tractors used Kohler engines and they had odd smaller HP ratings like 5 & 6-1/4 HP. You are probably correct that is a 6.6 HP Kohler was maybe a K161 only running 3000 RPM or something so therefore the lower rating.
 
Dennis,

I know orange was used for highway equipment, but what was the orange/green combination?

Thanks,
Jerry
 
Denny F
Nice write up !

Dang
bash.gif
bash.gif
I broke a few bolts off so far on this 125.
220126.jpg
 
Interesting points concerning the paint. Now I know why the 782 I started restoring this past weekend didn't have any primer under it's red paint. My old yellow and white narrow frames all seemed to have the reddish primer.
 
JERRY M. - There was a pale green (faded) and orange think it was a Hydro 100 @ RPRU in Madison 2 yrs ago. We built some 86-series with the same paint scheme while I was @ FARMALL. They were for a HUGE CARROT farmer out in California.... five tractors all the same paint color scheme, the idea was the tractor should be painted like a carrot, green on top, orange on the bottom.

The federal orange for highway dept part numbers was still in our part system, but the federal yellow was much more common. We built some hi-clear hydros for CHISHOLM-RYDER for bean harvesters which were yellow, and also some BIG H186's for the power units for blacktop paving equipment which were also yellow. We'd do 2 sometimes 3 batches a year of yellow. The orange only the one time in three years, with the green cabs.

MIKE L. - Any steel parts on CC's would only have the top coat of paint, no primer, unless the tractor was primed & painted by a prior owner. ALL IH-made iron castings like the rear end and frt axle would have been sealed with a special red oxide based sealer. It did two things, prevented rust which allowed raw castings to be stored outside, AND sealed any burned-in sand onto the casting surface and prevented it from contaminating the oil in the rearend.

DONALD - Do you have an IMPACT DRIVER? It's different from an impact wrench. You attach a socket or screw driver bit to fit the fastener your trying to remove, then smack the end with a hammer and cams inside the wrench turn the socket/bit to loosen the rusted fastener. I screwed up when I got mine. They make 1/4", 3/8", & 1/2" and I got a 1/2". By the time I adapt down to 3/8" or 1/4" the socket adapters use up all the limited twist in the impact driver!

ALSO... think I mentioned this a month or so ago... SON bought a Porter-Cable 18V cordless Impact driver. It's similar but smaller than a cordless drill, but there's an impact mechanism between the motor & chuck. Instead of pulling motor RPM down, it impacts like an Impact wrench. The P-C is rated 1600 inch/pounds but real world is more like 1000-1200. For comparison, my 1/2" Craftsman 19.2V cordless drill stalls in low @ 400 inch/pounds. SON says they're ALL they use at work on their "Small Stuff". But he mostly assembles "BIG STUFF", 3/4" to 1-1/4" dia hardware, Grd 8 or better.
 
We got some cold weather here, Radio just reported -23 BRRRRRRRRRR. my pool is snapping.
old.gif
 
I am trying to replace the ball joints on my 782. Does anyone know the size i need to order and any suggestions on up grade in them? Thanks for any help. I stopped at Fastenal today but they did not stock any.
 
KRAIG - Yep, I posted my comment in MY O/T ramblings forum. I'll try to keep my "ramblings" there.

STEVE B. - Look up HIEM JOINTS, you need 3/8"-24 female threads on the body and 3/8"-24 threads on the stud. Most people get them from McMaster-Carr. I'm not real surprised Fastenal didn't stock them but I bet they could get them.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top