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Archive through January 21, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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i rewired the 147. some purists wouldnt like it, i didnt use all original wire colors, i probably used 3 or 5 different colors. i didnt rewire the lift circuit or the headlight yet, but its on the list of things to do. i have an uncle that always has wire laying around so i paid him a visit. i have the wires setup so at least you can trace them back. i used enough colors where you can identify them. tractor starts, runs, and the charging system works. all of the 1970's era cloth wire has been disposed of. that wire was in really poor condition, most of it fell apart as i removed it. i was really surprised that the tractor ran at all. i know i didnt use all of the original color combinations, but i did a neat clean job. i needed to do it as cost effectively as possible.

i also have an issue with the pto pulley. it slops back and forth inside the basket. is this normal? i have the bearing installed along with the locking collar. any ideas why it is doing this?

also had a question about the regulator. it has 3 terminals on the side of it and one underneath. one terminal is marked L, i dont know what this terminal does. it is currently not hooked up. the other terminals are all hooked up and the charging system works.
 
TOM - NICE!

ANDREW - I suspect the PTO pilot bearing that locks on the end of the crankshaft is worn. And looseness between the inner race, the balls, and outer race will be multiplied with the pulley & clutch installed.

Far as the wire harness, I'd make notes in your operators manual or parts book about what color wire is what.

The old cotton sheath used on those old wire harnesses only used to last 4-5 yrs... even the new synthetic material only lasts so long also. I use a lot of convoluted conduit when I run wires, cable ties, even slide large dia heat shrink over multiple wires and shring it down.
 
Andrew D,

I am attaching a wiring diagram that shold be close to yours, I also checked the diagram for my cc 125 which uses the same regulator. Both show the lead on the back as ground. It is too big to attach here, but put Delco Remy Bulletin 1R-116 in the search bar on your computer. This will pullup a PDF on service specifics regarding the Delco Remy Regulator used on our Cubs. I have found this helpful with mine.

220061.jpg
 
Frank, thanks for the color diagram and info on the Delco Remy Bulletin. I have saved both for future reference for my 108 as I have an over charge condition. I will be looking into this once warmer weather gets here.
 
Quick question. Will a 12hp engine out of say a 124/125 (early narrow frame with dipstick coming out of the top of engine)fit easily into a 127? I am looking for a temporary fix until I can rip the 127 engine apart.

Thanks!

JB
 
the funny thing is, that wire underneath the regulator was hooked up to the starting circuit of the starter generator all along. when i ran new wires, i traced out what i could, and that wire did go to that terminal. i know what the wiring diagram said, but what i had was not set up that way. i'm guessing that the L terminal went to ground? when i hooked it up according to the wiring diagram, the starting circuit was activated AS SOON as power was applied to the battery lead. right now i have 2 of the terminals on the front hooked up, terminal F and terminal BAT, L is not hooked up at all, and the terminal underneath is hooked up to the starting circuit of the starter generator. i know it sounds weird but it works perfectly. i dont understand it myself
 
Andrew D.-

L is not a ground terminal. Don't use Frank's wiring diagram for your 147, as there are wiring differences between the 1x8/9 series and your 147. The regulator might even be different, I can't remember.

JB-

It will fit just fine.
 
so, if it works should i leave that terminal disconnected. it seems to work fine with the ammeter showing a high charge at first and then the needle drops back down to a slow charge after it has been running for a minute or so. the 147 service manual also shows that terminal underneath the regulator going to the ground terminal as well. according to the diagram that i have in front of me, the regulator has terminals BAT, GEN, FEILD, and one underneath. the regulator i have has terminals bat, F, L, and one underneath. it might have been replaced with the incorrect regulator, i have no idea if it is what belongs on the machine. i also have no idea if it was hooked up properly prevously.
 
I was able to diagnose one of my PTO issues.
blush.gif


When trying different adjustments with the PTO clutch turnbuckle, I noticed that one of the fingers on the PTO was loose. I removed the PTO to find that several of the nuts were loose. I did not do a good job putting the 2nd lock nut on. This would explain why the PTO worked correctly when first installed, but got worse over time.

Since the fiber wear button was damaged, I ordered several bronze ones.

Is it reasonable to use Nylock nuts instead of two regular nuts?
 

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